whats the best way to.....

[pdxbigfoot]

Well my stock a-arms just got back from bead-blast and i have looked all over this fourm but to no avail.I guess i have two questons,..1)do i have to remove the ball joints on my stock arms before they go to powder coat? i would imagine because of the baking process to cure the p/c and the rubber boots would not survive.2)For the love of god...whats the best way to accomplish this? Ive done the search on the fourm and found alot of ways to get them out of the spindles and heard alot of talk about the (ball joint removal tool) at Auto-zone....any responces are really helpfull and i appreciate them.....J

[mineralgrey01gt]

i asked the same question before about the ball joints and yes you have to remove them but I was told that they couldnt be removed? I may have misunderstood though.

[Aceman]

I've heard you can't remove them also. Only option is to paint them.

[86 Quad R]

the 86 and 87 is the only year that have removable ball joints and that is confined to the uppers. the lowers on any year cannot.

note: if your crafty, you can mod the lower stock a-arms for aftermarket ball joints. :devil:

[blasterandy]

yup, you can still make'em look good by painting them though. This was talked about with me on my 400ex, just get some cheap aftermarket ones off of here or fleabay

[pdxbigfoot]

What would happen if i polish the steel them heavy clear coat???HHHHmMMM!! Its only a matter of time till i get some +2's so we shall see...thank you all...J

[trx500r]

You can powder coat them remove the boot, then tape off the ball joint and bake them. I had mine chromed no problem. I have also powdercoated a set of banshee a arms no big deal. AND what ever you do don't get the ball joint tool from AUTOZONE they ruin boots. Try buying a MOTION PRO Ball joint seperater from your local bike shop or buy one from Denniskirk. The old mechanic trick is take a hammer and hit on the spindle right next to the ball joint and the vibration from the blow will loosen the joint. Be very careful not to hit the treads with the hammer. You may also have to pry down on the joint to help out. If you hit it right the a-arm will fall right out. I have done this numerous times and it has always worked it also works on cars and trucks.

[86 Quad R]

arent there plastic parts on the inside of stock honda ball joints? :confused:

[pdxbigfoot]

anybody else have any input??Im to the point where im going to start to look into aftermarket(cant really afford it...anybody looking for a killer Cannondale freeride??) plus my left top is bent enough to kinda throw things off

[86 Quad R]

if your wanting to mod your stock arms. here are a few pics from when i done mine.

http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/86-Quad-R/250R-my/Modded%20OEM%20A-arms/th_Rframe00004.jpg (http://s793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/86-Quad-R/250R-my/Modded%20OEM%20A-arms/?action=view&current=Rframe00004.jpg)

[http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/86-Quad-R/250R-my/Modded%20OEM%20A-arms/th_Rframe00007.jpg (http://s793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/86-Quad-R/250R-my/Modded%20OEM%20A-arms/?action=view&current=Rframe00007.jpg)

http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/86-Quad-R/250R-my/Modded%20OEM%20A-arms/th_Rframe00008.jpg (http://s793.photobucket.com/albums/yy213/86-Quad-R/250R-my/Modded%20OEM%20A-arms/?action=view&current=Rframe00008.jpg)

[troybilt]

Trying to PC my Stock aarms now... So I guess you can't remove the ball joints. Has anyone confirmed that there is plastic inside the ball joints? I don't think there is. I've got the rubber boots off, btw...

anybody have any input since 2007?

[sangheraent]

i think you have to make sure there is 0 grease in there.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by troybilt
Trying to PC my Stock aarms now... So I guess you can't remove the ball joints. Has anyone confirmed that there is plastic inside the ball joints? I don't think there is. I've got the rubber boots off, btw...

anybody have any input since 2007?

One thing to remember, you must remove all grease in the bearing or anywhere (highly unlikely) or it will liquify and mess up the curing process of the coating.

[sameltoe]

I pc'd a set of 400ex arms bout 3/4 years ago and they are still holding up. took off the boots, cleaned them out with brakeclean taped them off and cooked them. Nothing major "oosed" out besides a little grease lol installed boots with grease and used a grease needle and some rtv over the puncture hole.

[sameltoe]

Originally posted by danhung11
One thing to remember, you must remove all grease in the bearing or anywhere (highly unlikely) or it will liquify and mess up the curing process of the coating. lol That happend to me when I did a 8" ford rearend...

[danhung11]

Originally posted by sameltoe
I pc'd a set of 400ex arms bout 3/4 years ago and they are still holding up. took off the boots, cleaned them out with brakeclean taped them off and cooked them. Nothing major "oosed" out besides a little grease lol installed boots with grease and used a grease needle and some rtv over the puncture hole.

I'm not trying to start a pissing match here, but a little grease inside a small cavity can mess up that particular part's coating and immediately surrounding pieces in the oven. First hand experience and it's not worth the waste of money nor time in preparation work.

Also, be careful on the brake cleaner stuff. Read this article.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

[troybilt]

What about blasting them? Do you just tape off the area before blasting?

[troybilt]

I guess I can just paint them...

Dan don't suppose you have a paint gun do you? :D

[sameltoe]

By no means am I trying to insult or get into it with, with anyone here...not my intention at all. Your post wasn't their when I replied. I was just saying what I have done and how I went about it. Sorry guys...
And that was a good article...never knew.
It's good when you can say "I learned something today"
Sam

[atv fan 28]

I talked with Pappy about PC my stock a-arms and he wouldnt even do them. He said there was some kind of material in the ball joint that would get damaged due to the curing process.

[1promodfan]

Originally posted by danhung11
I'm not trying to start a pissing match here, but a little grease inside a small cavity can mess up that particular part's coating and immediately surrounding pieces in the oven. First hand experience and it's not worth the waste of money nor time in preparation work.

Also, be careful on the brake cleaner stuff. Read this article.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

^^^^^^^I know this might be "off subject", but who would wait 9 days before going to a hospital?? :confused:

[trx250racer]

HI JASON AND TROY HERE IS WHAT I FOUND FOR YOU GUYS....

I JUST WENT TO THE GARAGE AND WENT TO WORK ON THIS DAMAGED LOWER A-ARM I HAD LAYING AROUND.
IT DOES HAVE A TEFLON LIKE SHIM THAT IS ON THE OUTER PART OF THE JOINT. THERE IS ALSO A RUBBER TYPE SEAT THAT THE BALL RESTS ON..

ALSO A FEW YEARS BACK I HAD SOME TIEROD ENDS PC'D AND THE TEFLON TYPE SHIM DID MELT AND OOZED OUT PARTIALLY AND THEN HARDENED AGAIN.. I HAD TO SCRAP A PERFECTLY GOOD SET OF ENDS... ALL IN THE NAME OF RESEARCH I GUESS!! LOL!!!

HOPE THIS HELPS... ROBERT

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j438/TRX250RACER/balljoint001.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j438/TRX250RACER/balljoint002.jpg

[troybilt]

Originally posted by atv fan 28
I talked with Pappy about PC my stock a-arms and he wouldnt even do them. He said there was some kind of material in the ball joint that would get damaged due to the curing process.

Damn, that's what I was afraid off, I feel painting them is half-*****ed. Maybe Pappy will chime in here. I was visiting with another gentleman that restores quads for a living and "claims" they've cured powder at lower temps so there was no issue. I don't know crap about powder coating so I couldn't tell ya if he was smoking something or not.

[troybilt]

Originally posted by trx250racer
HI JASON AND TROY HERE IS WHAT I FOUND FOR YOU GUYS....

I JUST WENT TO THE GARAGE AND WENT TO WORK ON THIS DAMAGED LOWER A-ARM I HAD LAYING AROUND.
IT DOES HAVE A TEFLON LIKE SHIM THAT IS ON THE OUTER PART OF THE JOINT. THERE IS ALSO A RUBBER TYPE SEAT THAT THE BALL RESTS ON..

ALSO A FEW YEARS BACK I HAD SOME TIEROD ENDS PC'D AND THE TEFLON TYPE SHIM DID MELT AND OOZED OUT PARTIALLY AND THEN HARDENED AGAIN.. I HAD TO SCRAP A PERFECTLY GOOD SET OF ENDS... ALL IN THE NAME OF RESEARCH I GUESS!! LOL!!!

HOPE THIS HELPS... ROBERT

Robert, thanks that helps ALOT!!!!!!!

[troybilt]

What paint do you use? Rattle-can?

[250Renvy]

Troy, I don't think I'd use a rattle can, unless you plan on riding and will need to redo it quite often.

Another option is to try to find a thread on here where I inquired about replacing balljoints. I think it is a GeoTracker or Moog tie rod end that will fit in there if you cut the ends off.

It was described quite in detail, but it was a few years ago. After you cut the balljoints off you can powdercoat. Plus it'll give you good newer balljoints.

I also think the Rickystator ball joints would work but that may take some other opinions.

[atv fan 28]

Hey Troy, hit up 86 Quad R, he has converted his stock a-arms to feature removable ball joints. Ive seen it in person and it looks really good. He should be able to help ya out.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by troybilt
I guess I can just paint them...

Dan don't suppose you have a paint gun do you? :D

I never did pick up that pc gun, cause then I'd have this pos oven in my too small of a garage. :grr:

I've seen some on here that do restores and paints them, they look really good. I've also heard you can wax the paint and it comes back to life. Knowing how good those parts look in person, that may be your best option.

Can you do us all a favor and go and focus on your Elisnore build? :devil: Miss seeing the updates bro!

[1promodfan]

How about the guy (can't remember his name) that had all those cool 250R's lying around. He's the one that was trying to sell his ATC250R on eBay the other day. Didn't he find a color that was really close to stock? I know he had restored a few 250R quads.

[red88r]

That was k10seibel on here. He's located in WI.

[troybilt]

Yea, I already asked Andy... he's the one that mentioned the possibility of coating them at a lower temp... I don't know for sure. Honda is dumb, why not make the stockers have replaceable ball joints... doesn't make much sense. I got all of the spherical joints out of the mounting points, just need to figure out the ball joints.

The ball joints are perfect, so they don't need replaced. I just want the aarms to look new for my restoration. Its not going to be a show stopper or anything, but I don't want the paint to quickly chip off either.

What about spot heating for curing the powder?

[danhung11]

Originally posted by troybilt

What about spot heating for curing the powder?

The part has to be electrostatically charged, then sprayed with the powder to adhere. Then to cure it, it's placed in some type of capsule that is capable of reaching 200 degrees celsius for about ten minutes.

I've got some left over powder you can try, but you might want to pick up a spare set of arms. I'm not going to lie, it's messy stuff.

[troybilt]

Dan I was refering to this thing, used on large items that don't fit into an oven... so that begs the question can you spot cure the powder on smaller items... Hmmm...

http://www.columbiacoatings.com/Portable_Infrared_p/infrared.htm

[wilkin250r]

I can't see spot curing working. Metal is an excellent conductor of heat, there's no way you can keep that 375 degrees from traveling to the ball joint in the ten minutes it takes for the powder to cure.

It might work if the powder only needed to reach 375 for a second or two, but not ten minutes.