I keep sheering my woodruff key

[Westro]

OK, what is the trick, I keep sheering my woodruff key on my R. This is with the stock and lightened flywheel.

Any 'tricks'?

[zedicus00]

make sure the nut is TITE. most of the force should go through the shft to the flywheel. they key is only their to position it. the only time i ever sheared a key was when i forgot to titen the nut down to torque spec.

[wilkin250r]

That's my first suggestion also. Dang tight on that flywheel nut.

[matt250r21]

Check your keyway on your flywheels and crank as well. They get messed up when you sheer the keys. Kinda like a snowball effect, once a key gose the flywheel and crank can get some slop to them. I have always used red locktite and lots of force to tighten that nut down.

[Westro]

Thanks,

I hit it with the impact to take the nut off, I'll hit it good and torque it to spec when I get a new woodruff. I can't believe that my local Honda dealership doesn't have one. Friday I get a couple keys.


Thanks

[RichM1983]

Originally posted by Westro
Thanks,

I hit it with the impact to take the nut off, I'll hit it good and torque it to spec when I get a new woodruff. I can't believe that my local Honda dealership doesn't have one. Friday I get a couple keys.


Thanks

You think thats bad. My local shop, which is probably the biggest one within 50 miles or more doesnt even carry stock sized carb jets.

[deathman53]

I was told that constant sheering of flywheels keys is either, the taper on the flywheel/crank is bad or crank bearings are going bad. I have sheered two keys on my friends bike, by not tightening the nuts down right, I didn't use an impact gun.

[jon370r]

The key is there just for alignment. The taper is self locking and is supposed to hold the flyweel in place when torqued down. If the tapers don't match on the crank and flywheel, weather its from being run loose and has spin marks on the surface of either or just highspots around the keyway, they wont lock together the way they are suposed to because its just hitting on the high spots not the full surface. If they aren't that bad you can resurface them with some sandpaper or laping compound. If the flywheel is seated correctly you should only be able to get it off with a puller. If it comes off just by loosening the nut then you have a problem with the taper and you will keep breaking timing keys in just the manner you have described.