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mattonln
06-25-2007, 02:07 PM
I just ordered a JE 13:1 and a hotcams stage II from Colby for my 05 450r. I am going to do the rebuild myself and, never having torn into these motors before, What might be some hints you guys could give me to make the rebuild go smoothly? Do I need any special tools or anything? I have the service manual and know how to address the cam, timing and valves, but have no clue as for the piston. Any help I could get would be awesome. Also, I'm pretty sure you run half 110 race gas, half premium octane pump gas for these pistons, is this right? Just what I heard. Thanks!

Rulz
06-25-2007, 05:30 PM
I'd invest in a shim kit too! Make sure you ball hone the cylinder, then clean with warm soapy water. Wipe dry with white paper towels and make sure it comes back super clean! Assemble the motor dry, meaning lube the wrist pin and that is it! Use a towel and stuff down motor to ensure you do not drop any shims or the cir clip down into the motor. I like to go ahead and start the piston in the cylinder first, then install that entire assembly onto the rod, makes it alot easier.

Once you have the head back on, cam assembly back on, everything torqued down, timing perfect, remove the spark plug and kick the motor over around 50 times, again, with no oil in the motor. After this is done your rings have set in, install spark plug, add oil and ride the piss out of it.

ricks450
06-25-2007, 08:04 PM
not saying this guy is wrong. that just dont sound go to me. i would not start it dry. lube the rings and piston,wrist pin, everything. grease your cam lobes and when you get the motor put together squirt oil all over the cam and timing chain everything and put the valve cover on. run it for a little bit about 15 to 30mins then change oil to flush out grease and anything that might have got in it from the rebuild. and ride it easy (i know thats hard to do, lol ) for about ten hours just like honda says to do when it is new to break it in. and then change oil again after break in. but you do need to get a shim kit if you do not already have one. hotcams sells a nice kit.

mattonln
06-26-2007, 03:55 AM
yeah, i have actually heard of both ways. the "dry" breakin is supposed to actually make your rings stronger because it heats them up from friction and forms them to the cylinder or something like that, but it does sound kind of destructive to me. I know alotta guys who break in their motors on race bikes this way. I can't decide which to do, just trying to get the most imput to see what i wanna do. Thanks!

BTW - I did get a shim kit and i have feeler gauges. What all do I need to do as far as cylinder honing? Still not exactly sure.

any recommendations on jetting? I live at the coast. Thanks again

Rulz
06-26-2007, 06:42 AM
Please don't knock a procedure just because you've never heard of it or you think it may be destructive. Some of the top engine builders have been assembling motors "dry" for many many years with much better success than lubing all components. To each his own!

Our quads used to use oil each time they were ran hard, after I did alot of research on thumpertalk.com, I found out the dirt bike boys were using this dry build procedure with great success. I too was skeptical but tried it, no more oil use and the quad runs better than ever. Makes sense, better ring seal means better compression, which means less oil blow by. By having oil on the cylinder walls and on the rings, this actually will help "contaminate" the surfaces and prevent a good ring seal. The other reason you clean the crap out of your cylinder is to get all the minute metal particles out of the cross hatch. Once you do that, as the new ring moves across the newly cleaned cylinder, it "cuts" the rings, thus making a good seal. The oil actually prevents this from happening, it actually just allows the ring to slide with less friction, thus not cutting the ring surface.

Hope this all makes sense!

Rulz
06-26-2007, 06:48 AM
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452334&highlight=dry+engine+build