This has been asked to death im sure but plz help me out

[TYayo420]

i know i could have searched for this info, but what i need is a bit more detailed.

Ok so im re-doing the oil cooling system in my quad, new lines etc, i live in NY so its 70-100 in summer. I want to know what kinda of oil, brand, weight etc to use since it will be hot out, and this is my quads primary cooling system i want to spend some $$$ and feel safer. I also do some TT racing so it will be wot sometimes for 20 or so minutes racing, i want something that gives the best protexction under high performance situations, but also for the occasional trail rides.

synthetic or non, detergent or non detergent the weights to use, exact ammount, the best oil filter and also why is that kind so good. Thanksa sorry this sounds like a essay topic from school lol.

[EX LONERIDER]

was reading through the - ask Ricky Dunlap- articles and seen this. this may shed some light to your question.



NJ300ex asks;
How do you feel about porting and when do you feel it is necessary? When would you recommend full race porting? Do you recommend play porting(cleanup port) and when?

Also:

What oil do you recommend and what do you use on your race machines? Do you use oil based, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic?

answer;

Depending on what model you have, port and flow work can benefit most motors. The 300EX actually has a 250X head on it which has small valves even for a 250 let alone anything bigger. Port and flow work on this machine, even with stock size valves, will benefit greatly. When you go to port the head on it and you find it has bad intake valves (which most will) it would benefit you to go to a big valve port and flow for an extra $100 or so (plus valves which you have to buy anyway) from a reputable engine builder. The 400EX on the other hand has very little gain in power from doing a mild port job with standard valves on a 416 motor or smaller. You won't see a difference until you get into a 440 engine or bigger going to a big valve head on this one. For most trail riders, the stock head will work fine. If you run in the higher RPM's and have a bigger carberator then the big valve head will benefit greatly.

I see a lot of motors run on everything from 10/30 automotive oil to full synthetics and straight weight performance oils. I personally like a straight 40 weight oil most of the time except for on frozen lake beds where the wind chill factor can cause the oil to thicken up and cause the engine to cold seize. I experienced this the first time I raced for Team Honda at Lake George back in 1983. I have seen full synthetics (Mobile One 15/50, Amsoil 15/50 and Red Line 15/50) work very well with motors that run OEM clutch plates and heavy duty clutch springs. Mike Penland used to run it in his 435 Wolverine with an automatic clutch with no problems. I stay away from multi-grade 10/40's and 20/50's because the polimers it takes to change the oil from the light weight to the heavier tends to brake down the film strength and not give as good of protection as the straight weight oil. We personally run a Shaffer's straight 40 oil (same thing I used when I raced for Powroll) but you can use Valvoline or Kendall and it will be easier to acquire from your local auto parts store. Most of the time you will have to order in a case of it unless you are in an area that has a lot of auto racing and then they may stock it.

[underpowered]

rotella 15w-40. that is waht i run, and what comes in many bikes like harley, KTM for the factory. and many High perf. aut engines run it to. it is a high detergent oil and offers great protection.

[TYayo420]

thank you guys for the answers, so far im thinking 15-40/50 is the way to go, BUT will it help the most out of all oils to keep the motor cooled?

[blasterandy]

20w/50 castrol motorcycle, its easy to come by at autozone or likewise. I don't use syn. cause i am good at changing the oil reg. But if you for get or just don't like to synthetic is ok. I would still do it every 15hr's. I'l pm you some info.

[TYayo420]

your PM box is full, but i was going to say thanks alot, and i know ppl have asked hti sbefore, but want to make sure the motors running gcool, and i know ppl in the US run in higher temps and humidity then me, so i wanna use what the hottest part of the US oil ppl use so im sure im safer. Im really thinking a bigger oil cooler, if i can find where and a decent price im going to get a bigger one.

[blasterandy]

there was a post not to long back about using a busa 1000 oil cooler in it. It thing this would be the most cost effective way. I would try that or a kawasaki 500's just because thats there only mode of cooling besides air.

And thanks for telling me my pm box is full. I was wonderin why i didn't get any messages.

[EX LONERIDER]

essentially, you'll want the most readily available oil to you at your local shop or parts store. if you change it often it'd be nice to know wehre you can always get it.

me personally im thinking that the straight weight like 40w may be best to run on hot areas... either or 20-50w. thicker oil... less easier to break down. make sure to get a good detergent oil if you'll go a little long on your oil changes. otherwise most standard oils will do.

as for the oil filter, ive run both oem type you get at the dealers and K&N filters and i cant see a diffrence other then a dollar or two in price diffrence.

oil coolers.... theres the easy to install perma-cool atv universal oil cooler that can be easily mounted to the front connecting rails of the frame that someone posted earlier last week. i had a post on it. search down the threads and you'll see a post with my name on it. check it out, ALOT of people chimed in on what to do as far as an oil cooler including pictures of installed coolers.

[CarGuy7a]

i've got a question as well. how well is the protection of just regular Honda GN4 10w-40. that's all i've ran in mine.

and also what the heck is detergent oil?

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by CarGuy7a
i've got a question as well. how well is the protection of just regular Honda GN4 10w-40. that's all i've ran in mine.

and also what the heck is detergent oil?


Honda oil is actually pretty good.




I personally run klotz MX4 10-40, and I love it. When I first started running it in my 400ex, it quieted down valve noise tremendously.

[CarGuy7a]

yeah i'm with you klotz oil is good oil.

[gncc025]

Originally posted by 400exrider707
Honda oil is actually pretty good




yes it is. i have been running honda oil in mine ever since i've had it (03) and i've ridden the hell out of it. still runs great. its done good in this ms summer heat lol.

[TYayo420]

well last time i changed my oil last week, i used mobile 1 10/30 5k miles protection high performance oil, so i should prolly not sue this kind when i change it tonight right? thats why i made this post so when i change it tonight i know whats the best for it