anyone have any port work pictures??

[EX LONERIDER]

gonna clean up the port work on the head while its off, match the intake to the head port and such, possibly ramp tha angles and such.... just looking for examples if anyone has any. thanks.

[dragex400]

Cut back the middle on the intake side and cut the corners so that there is a strait line of flow coming through the head. I also cut the ports right up to my valve seats. You gotta be real careful if you do that. On the exhaust side, I basically cut out until there was no more carbon from the exhaust gaskets. Again, then I cut the corners down to get a strait line of flow.

[sc400ex_rider]

same......got pics but never looked to see if they came out. oh lap the valves back in and test with water or gas.

[EX LONERIDER]

alrighty... thats a good starting point. ill post pictures before i even touch em so hopefully it helps out someone else.

i think i get the general idea for what kind of work i need to do. basic idea is just to get the flow goin as best as possible but doin it clean. ill get some help from another buddy of mine thats done some port work himself.

[sc400ex_rider]

here is pics of my project
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010337.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010339.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010341.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010345.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010346.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010352.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010355.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010400.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010402.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010434.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010435.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010436.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010437.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/S4010415.jpg

[dariusld]

You probably already know this, be careful with the exhaust side and don't go to big, because then you will have a leak. Something to think about. Also when I did mine, I didnt go to deep, but the deeper you go, better the flow. I didnt have the right tools to go the full length of the ports.

[EX LONERIDER]

thanks guys.

sc 400, thanks for the pictures. it was a great help. i mainly matched the exhaust ports to my header and took some of the sharp angles out from there. on the intake side i also de-angled the sharp ends and casting marks, cut the split back some, and smoothed out the ridges near the valve seats.

ill get some pictures of mine as well when im done. luckily i had all the porting and cutting tools at my disposal!:devil:

it helps having someone who's done it there with ya but anyone with the right tools and a little confidence with these examples can get to it. i seen a couple of heads that were done by shops like duncan and sparks and such (tho i wont disclose how i got those pictures :rolleyes: ) and essentially they are identical to how we are doing them. the big diffrence is they have a flow bench and all their big dollar shop tooling that will make the perfect numbers. i however beleive we can get close enough. :macho

[dragex400]

After lapping the valves, I usually use kerosene to test the seat for it is the thinnest liquid that is readily available. I put the valves and plug back in and turn it upside down and fill the dome with kerosene and let it sit overnight. If it is all still in there in the morning then I would say you got your seats. Port work takes alot of time, even more time when it is your first, so just take your time. Also don't be afraid to polish the exhaust ports till they look like chrome. It takes alot of work by hand but is worth it in the long run. I have my port work to thank for alot of my performace. Before my previous rebuild I had stock bore 11:1 comp, stage 2 HC, 450R carb, MSD Programmable ignition, white bros. aluminum pro full system, and my main jet was a 287K. They don't make one that big, I had to bore a 230 out to a 287. Port work done right makes all the difference.

[EX LONERIDER]

yea... the kerosene is the same trick i used on my toyota head when i redid it. best way tho i also check em from the ports out and fill the ports after i did the cylinder check... (juuust in case)

i took my time on the posrting tho as you said. i know it'll make all the diffrence if i do so and not skip over anything or half *** it. now, how did you polish up the exhaust ports, or what did you use for them?

[EX LONERIDER]

Originally posted by dragex400
I have my port work to thank for alot of my performace. Before my previous rebuild I had stock bore 11:1 comp, stage 2 HC, 450R carb, MSD Programmable ignition, white bros. aluminum pro full system, and my main jet was a 287K. They don't make one that big, I had to bore a 230 out to a 287. Port work done right makes all the difference.

just for info... this is the setup im gonna run.

440 wiseco 11:1 piston, stage 2HC, sparks advance key, currently have a gig gun full race system (tho im likely gonna go to a fmf power core 2 type silencer or an E2 type silencer) stock carb with stock pilot and looking like i may go to a 155 main.

ill also be adding a bigger cooler and some good air shrouds and run about 50/50 race fuel to help the cooling issues.

[dragex400]

I used a dremel for most of my port work. As for the polishing I did it by hand and it took forever. I started out with 220grit and finished with a 600 wet sand. Then I used a wool wheel on my dremel with some rouge to top it off.

[sc400ex_rider]

use a flapperwheel for final polishing.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r20/starcraftier1/flapwheel.jpg