dropping down a tooth on my front sprocket for hairscrambles

[drag101]

what do u guys think of this idea so far i have a k&n filter....jetting...yoshi pipe....SRP rev box.....will i lose to much top end ? or should i do it because of all the low end i will gain....because right now my jetting is set for high rpm rideing and whenever i bog down i blow plugs terrible so will the lower sprocket help make it easier to ride at higher rpms since theres less room between gears with it?

[miller821]

IMO it was probably the best mod that I did for the increase in torque. And unless your going to be running in 5th gear, then I'd recommend it.

[Bill Fuller]

Waste of time and speed. Learn to use the clutch to keep the RPS in the sweet spot. I lowered my front and rode about a week and switched back. Get the jetting correct and the ATV will be more responsive.

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by Bill Fuller
Waste of time and speed. Learn to use the clutch to keep the RPS in the sweet spot. I lowered my front and rode about a week and switched back. Get the jetting correct and the ATV will be more responsive.

Agreed

I found that I was shifting way too much with this mod, and it actually tires me out more. Stock gearing with 18" rear tires seems to be a sweet setup.

[Dill]

except your 18 inch tires lowered your gearing by as much, or more, than lowering the front sprocket 1 tooth with stock or other 20 inch rear tires.

[underpowered]

you cannot tune jetting for high RPM's. if you are having problems in low RPM's then you jetting is off, simple as that.

and like Bill Fuller said, i tried it and hated it. learn to work the clutch. the 14t was worthless, i cannot see how people can ride like that, i was shifting way to much.

[1965 honda]

it would help if your doing alot of hill climbs in sand

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by Dill
except your 18 inch tires lowered your gearing by as much, or more, than lowering the front sprocket 1 tooth with stock or other 20 inch rear tires.

I dont think it dropped it that much. There is a gearing calculator floating around so we could figure it out. 1 tooth up front is roughly 2.5 teeth in the rear, that is a big drop. Plus most of the 18" tires I have used dont even measure that low anyways. My 18" kendas were the same size as the 20" stockers. My 18" turf tamers were 16.75" You cant really go off the size printed on the side of the tire. I guess I shouldn't have said what I did. Let me rephrase.

I like stock gearing!

[1965 honda]

Originally posted by 400exrider707
No it didn't, but thanks. 1 tooth up front is roughly 2.5 teeth in the rear, that is a big drop. Plus most of the 18" tires I have used dont even measure that low anyways. My 18" kendas were the same size as the 20" stockers. My 18" turf tamers were 16.75" You cant really go off the size printed on the side of the tire. I guess I shouldn't have said what I did. Let me rephrase.

I like stock gearing!
my 20in holeshot are 22in
i think turf tamers are the only true 18in tire

[Dill]

thats why you'll see sand tires described in rollout instead of diameter.

[miller821]

14 tooth I can second gear up all hills working the clutch just a little...

Before with a 15 tooth I found myself revving out pretty hard in 1st, and bogging way to much in 2nd.

I found the sweet spot to be the 14 tooth just 2nd gear up all hills, and 3rd gear w/ sometimes 4th in the trails.

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by 1965 honda
my 20in holeshot are 22in
i think turf tamers are the only true 18in tire

Like I said my 18 x 9.5 x 8 turf tamers were a true 16.75"

[drag101]

i know u cant jet for high rpms i meant my quad is rich and it runs much much better at higher rpms with the aftermarket cdi and ive been rideing for a good bit of time so i must be able to clutch pritty damn well if i race...i just figured in the woods it would be eaiser to drop a tooth for high rpm rideing instead of rejetting because my jetting is pritty close right now and i dont feel like starting all over agien. is there any way i can get more air to my engine that doesnt contain takeing off my lid or snorkel cause they kinda help out during woods racing

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by drag101
i know u cant jet for high rpms i meant my quad is rich and it runs much much better at higher rpms with the aftermarket cdi and ive been rideing for a good bit of time so i must be able to clutch pritty damn well if i race...i just figured in the woods it would be eaiser to drop a tooth for high rpm rideing instead of rejetting because my jetting is pritty close right now and i dont feel like starting all over agien. is there any way i can get more air to my engine that doesnt contain takeing off my lid or snorkel cause they kinda help out during woods racing


Your carb should be jetted for all RPMS at once, I think you might be confusing this. Your carb has different jets or needles or whatever, if you have a stock carb you have a fuel screw a pilot jet, a needle, and a main jet. All of these control different "circuits" in your carb. Your fuel screw is used for mainly idle. Your pilot is between 1/8 and 1/4 throttle, your needle and slide work for 1/4-3/4 and your main is generally 3/4-full throttle. You really can just jet for a specific RPM, you should have all circuits jetted correctly, so it shouldn't matter what RPM you are running at it should run smooth. Hope this helps some.

[drag101]

i know what your saying man i did all the jetting myself and whatgg im trying to explain to u is my quad is running rich and it shuts off at low rpms and it will only run smooth if i rev it out...i know if i drop down a size on the pilot it will prolly run better but i do not feel like chanceing it and ****ing up and haveing to start all over

[TGA400EX]

Here is that gearing calculator if it helps you.http://www.home.earthlink.net/~gellett/400ex.htm

[firefighterjosh]

Originally posted by drag101
i know what your saying man i did all the jetting myself and whatgg im trying to explain to u is my quad is running rich and it shuts off at low rpms and it will only run smooth if i rev it out...i know if i drop down a size on the pilot it will prolly run better but i do not feel like chanceing it and ****ing up and haveing to start all over

Well your going to have too. Done deal

[MO-EX-RIDER]

as for the sprocket, just buy one and try it($25) i like it geared down 1 for a slow, tight course but go with stock for more open, faster tracks