Do It Yourself Resleeve??

[EX LONERIDER]

has anyone done it via a hot oven till it falls out? i got my big bore kit and a new sleeve and ive heard of people just tossing the cylinder into the stove for a few till the sleeve falls out. just wondering if this works and if it does, what temp you have to sit it in there with and about how long???

[blasterandy]

The only problem i see is the sleeve will expand with the cylinder, thus putting you in the same place you were before. it would need to be very hot 500deg. ought to do it, and i don't know how you would set it up so the sleeve would fall out. I would like to know how this would work. My personal advice "have a machine shop do it"

[EX LONERIDER]

yea, all it would need is to have enough space for the sleeve to slide out some.... from there you can slide it out the rest of the way once its hot enough. my buddy's do it with their old vintage bike motors so i figure i can do it in the same fashion.

i can always have a machie shop do it too if it dont work... but i figured if i can save myself the money...why not try?

[EX LONERIDER]

ok, so i took a shot at it and came up with a more controlled way of doing it. here's what i did...

i took the head 1 rag folded over, two blocks of wood to support the head upside down evenly, another block of wood to start the tapping process on the sleeve, and a handy little heat gun (NOT A HAIR DRYER) if you dont have one i suggest you get one, cant be any more then 20 bux and they come in handy for alot of things.. , thin punch, plastic mallet, and had at it for 15 minutes.

after evenly distributing heat across the entire head i took some penetrating oil and sprayed it at the base between the sleeve and cylinder lining.

then with the 1 block of wood, i layed it over the bottom end of the sleeve and tapped on it. this surprisingly just started easing the sleeve down without much effort. when i got the bottom of the sleeve even with the cylinder base i used the thin punch to evenly tap on the sleeve... i noticed it was not radiating as much heat as when i started to tap on the sleeve so i applied heat to it with the gun for another 5 minutes to bring it back up to temp... sprayed some more penetrating oil on it and had at it again. took me another few minutes and before i knew it the sleeve popped right out!

as for dropping in the sleeve, ill be using the same heat gun to run the cylinder up to temp. but before i do that, ill drop my new sleeve into the freezer for a while. (make sure the wifes' not lookin :D ) by freezing the sleeve, you contract the metal, and by heating the cylinder it will expand the aluminum. this should make it slide into the hole with very little if no effort at all.

i hope this helps out some people to save a few bucks and encourage to do this yourself.

[TYayo420]

nice write up

[03pissedoff426]

Your way seams very good. but when i did all my resleeving all i did was use a hand press at my work. it is just a big c shaped cast iron piece mounted to a stand. a gear on top and a long 2' this piece of steel with gears grooves in. i used wood and oil and it worked real nice. i was told to stay away fom the heating the head or cylinder up due to possibly warping the head or cylinder. then it wont seal right. But nice write up on a how to.

[EX LONERIDER]

thanks. i had access to a hydrolic press, tho for the same reasons didnt use it since i feared misalighning or something goin wrong where it bound up and bent or broke the fins. figure some heat and oil would be best.

that and i figure more people can go out and buy or have access to a heat gun then a press. not evryone is as lucky as us who have a shop :D

by the way, in case anyone wants to know what kind of heat gun i used.. it was a walbro heat gun. im sure other people make it tho.

[TYayo420]

Originally posted by 03pissedoff426
Your way seams very good. but when i did all my resleeving all i did was use a hand press at my work. it is just a big c shaped cast iron piece mounted to a stand. a gear on top and a long 2' this piece of steel with gears grooves in. i used wood and oil and it worked real nice. i was told to stay away fom the heating the head or cylinder up due to possibly warping the head or cylinder. then it wont seal right. But nice write up on a how to.

well um, dont start your motors guys, it might warp the head, cuz the motor gets hot lol :D :D

[blasterandy]

very good idea. I may have to do this.

[EX LONERIDER]

Originally posted by TYayo420
well um, dont start your motors guys, it might warp the head, cuz the motor gets hot lol :D :D

it may warp if you unevenly heat the motor. it helps having something to rotate the head on. or just be real careful that you dont just heat one area too much. otherwise it should be safe to do. it dont need to be smokin hot, just warm enough to slip the sleeve out.

[TYayo420]

yeah figured so, i was messin round anyways

[EX LONERIDER]

yeah, yeah, i hear ya... :D only way i see anyone warping a head like that is if you get it mega hot or just heat up one side or something to that nature. wich, if you are daring enough to take this project on, you usually are real cautious like i was and use your better judgement...... along with advice from someone who's done it all their life as a hobby.

[underpowered]

one problem i see. your installin a big bore kit right?

well you actually have to bore out the cylinder for the big bore sleeve to fit, not jsut drop it in. if that was the case, why would you need a new sleeve for a big bore if it was no different than the stocker?? you will have to have a machine shop do the re-install atleast if you are going big bore.

[EX LONERIDER]

i would guess you are correct. i knew it didnt seem to make sence in just sliding it right in. ill check on that, if so, guess ill have my buddy line it up and bore it to the right spec.