tie rod hitting a-arm

[havinnoj]

my buddy has +2/+1 a-arms on his R. He put the 400ex spindle/hub/caliper setup on there. But now the tierod hits the upper a-arms when turning. How does he fix this?

[400EX QUADER]

ttt

[svahle]

Does he have the tierod inserted into the spindle from the top or the bottom? This may be the source of the problem. I'm not sure if it needs to be from the top or the bottom, but he might try switching it to see if this fixes the problem. Just a thought.

[edz250r]

The end of the screw from my left tie rod end hits my +2+1 LSR arms. I've been told that this is a common problem with using LSR arms and the stock frame. Its a frame/arm geometry/compatibility issue...

[havinnoj]

svahle - I'll ask him but I agree with what you are saying and I believe this and/or the stem could be the source of the problem. Also maybe using 400ex tie rods.

ED - mine does too on LSR arms, try adjusting your arms and this should stop. This isn't his problem though. The tie rod itself hits the a-arm.

[400EX QUADER]

If I remember right, I did try switching the tierod upside down...

[C-LEIGH RACING]

How about the steering stem stop on the frame ??.
Sometimes people will grind them a little so to have more travel on the steering. Even more so if the bike was used for TT racing in the past.
Neil

[TheFontMaster]

I know that on 250r a arms, and steering stem the tie rod ends will bolt to the top of them. I don't know if it will help you any, but maybe it can get rid of one uncertanty.

[400EX QUADER]

maybe this weekend I will need to try out some stuff again... possibly I can fab something up if worse comes to worse

[Rich250RRacer]

Originally posted by edz250r
The end of the screw from my left tie rod end hits my +2+1 LSR arms. I've been told that this is a common problem with using LSR arms and the stock frame. Its a frame/arm geometry/compatibility issue...

It's not just with the stock frame. Both of my full LSR quads did the the same thing, but it never had a effect on the handling, since it would only hit on the side opposite the way you're turning (the outside wheel). When moving and making a turn, the outside wheel moves up in it's travel, making those a-arms parallel to the ground, giving the tie rod plenty of room to move. If you want to see for yourself, take a shock off, turn the wheel to the opposite side and lift the wheel through it's travel. All you have to move it is slightly to gain the clearance needed, and your suspension moves at least that much when turning. Since I switched to the 450R front brake system on the newer quad, it's not an issue at all anymore.

[honda350r]

I have found that if the tie rod hits the upper a-arm the caster is out of adjustment big time !

You have to put enough caster in to roll back the spindel so the rod will clear the upper arm!