Anybody ever rebuild their calipers?

[Yak]

My front calipers are seized up. The slides that the caliper is supposed to float on are stuck and nothing will get them unstuck. I tried soaking it with PB Blast and using a clamp to force them to break loose, but it didn't work. I'm now thinking about buying the rebuild kit and rebuilding them, but can't figure out how I'm going to get the factory slides out if they're totally seized. Anybody ever do this before, and how much of a pain in the rear end was it?

[Resq]

Just did the rear caliper. Looking at the manual the setup is much the same as the rear. My slide pin took a little work to get out. Usually its the larger slide that sticks. The smaller one just floats in the longer boot.

I used a socketed allen wrench to work it loose. Just keep working it. If its that bad, you may need a new caliper since the race for the slide pin may be damaged from rust and pitting.

A rebuild kit, 2 piston seals, small back o ring, new slide pin, both new boots, larger slide boot that slides thru the caliper body and pads cost under $60.00. (double for both fronts, and depending on prices in your area)

The piston are not cheap if you need one. Make sure you clean it up a bit, and a good coat of new brake fluid on it before you slide it back into the caliper. Helps get past the new seals.

[Yak]

Yeah, it's the larger slide that's stuck. It started stripping out when I tried to break it loose. Maybe after soaking it for a while I can get it to come loose. I'm guessing it was fairly easy to rebuild then?

[Barrymaxx]

Take a 12 mm wrench and unscrew the small pin. That way you can move the caliper bracket back and fourth a little. Then let some wd40 or even better, pb blaster sink in. Then hit the pin with a center punch when the caliper is mounted in a vice. Beat it back and fourth a little. Once it finally loosens up, then break it loose with a allen wrench. If you dont break it loose from the caliper first, the allen will most likely strip.

Good luck!

[Resq]

They are easy YAK, Just dont scratch the areas where the seals are placed, use a pik if you have one to remove the seals.

My piston wasnt bad at all, used some mothers mag wheel polish to take off a few spots of surface rust on the outer edge.

I will have to remember that one Barrymaxx. Thanks.

[Yak]

Thanks guys. Hopefully tomorrow I can give it another shot and see if I can get 'em loose.

[Barrymaxx]

Originally posted by Resq
They are easy YAK, Just dont scratch the areas where the seals are placed, use a pik if you have one to remove the seals.

My piston wasnt bad at all, used some mothers mag wheel polish to take off a few spots of surface rust on the outer edge.

I will have to remember that one Barrymaxx. Thanks.
I know you from atvstore!:D

[j450rking]

get some 3M silicone past from a parts store it is vary slick and dosen't come off easy. it's the best stuff i have ever used

[cbr929rr]

my front left caliper had the larger pin frozen. You will need a small air hammer with a pointed chisel, a friend with heavy leather gloves, pb blaster, and long nose locking pliers. Having a friend hold the caliper use the pointed chisel inside the allen head slide, it will not ruin the sides so you will be able to use an allen head wrench when it does work loose. Hammer until the pin moves down, then reverse the side and using an old brake pad to take the pointed abuse hammer the underneath back past where it was originally. Use pb blast and repeat hammering the slide back and forth until you feel you will not strip the head with the allen wrench.
If you do strip the allen head pin, remove the small pin with the pad wear indicator and rotate the mounting plate around 180% and the threads that the large slide pin attach to should start to reverse out, rotate 360% a couple of times and the caliper mounting bracket will be removed from the caliper.
Now you may finally air hammer the large pin out. It may come out with a steel sleeve around the large pin, you will need to save this as no replacement is available. You can light sand the sleeve and the aluminum caliper, when they both are free from rust, pitting, and scale the sleeve can be tapped in with a small hammer.
YOU ARE DONE!!!
I did not order a rebuild kit, I only ordered what parts i needed after both were disassembled. My piston and seals were great, I just needed new boots and one pin. Make sure to grease all cleaned pins and bolts with a light coat of high temp grease before assembly.
To remove the piston easily set your air compressor to 25psi and insert the rubber tip of a blow gun where you brake hose is bolted to the caliper. Hold an old t shirt around the caliper and blow the piston out, it only comes out with a small amount of force at 25 psi..

[416exriden]

i rebuild mine after every ride just so be sure they don't freez up

[cbr929rr]

416exridden just how much post ride maintenance do you complete after every ride? How many times do you ride a year?
Just curious...

[416exriden]

oo i don't mess around i ride atlest 8 days a week

[Barrymaxx]

Hmmm. Does that mean you ride 421 days a year too?

[Yak]

OK, I got one done tonight no problem. The other side just wouldn't break loose no matter what. In the end I rounded it out and it's now useless. Since I couldn't get it off, I cut the large pin so the plate was out of the way and beat the pin out. All I should have to do now is order the large pin for that side and I should be good. Thanks for the advice guys.....

[416exriden]

yea most of the time but some times i ride like 425 depends on the weather

[Pipeless416]

i had the same problem with my front left caliper. after trying everything i could think of and even bringing it to a shop to have it pressed out, i found a brand new caliper on ebay for $28 shipped. i was worried that my brakes wouldnt be balanced left to right, but it works perfectly. it would have saved me a lot time and trouble if i would have just bought it right away.:rolleyes: