please read if you have an fcr on your ex.

[maddmatt02]

what did you do for the choke? the fuel line is right in the way of it, aside from the fact that its a bit akward to get to, also where is youre needle clip at? and your jetting, I am not worried about mains as they are cheap but pilots are 3x as much as mains and I dont wanna have tons of them. I got 52/55 since I read all these 406/416's running 50's I figure cool temps at sea level with about 50cc more displacement would at least need a 52. but I havent read of anyone using larger than 50, most only 48's.

[underpowered]

2000 426ex, mods in sig.


running a 180 Main, and a 55 pilot. jetting is spot on, plug is cardboard brown. needle is on the lowest clip, running a stock YFZ 450 needle (not sure if it is different than a normal FCR needle)


i do not have a choke, pump the throttle about 5 times and it fires right up.

[zrpilot]

Maddmatt,

You have a unique situation that other's jetting recommendations may or may NOT help.

But I understand where your comin from..

Sooo.. I have:
an aftermarket (purchased from Sudco) FCR.
I'm running an EMR needle on the 5th notch.
I'm also running a 52 pilot and a 175 main.
I have a Boyesen Quick shot AP cover.
I have an EHS racing airbox lid.
I have NO choke, no TPS, and no hot start.

But.... I'm not happy with my jetting yet so I have an EMP and an EMN needle on the way. I'm going to try a 178 or maybe a 180 main jet.

Jetting is alot of trial and error!!!

[maddmatt02]

I know that noone can tell me exactly what I need, but I just wanted to hear from others what they got, cuz I know if people with 406's are running 50 pilots and 190 mains I know Ill probably at least need the same or more, and I got whatever needle it came with in there. its on the 4th out of 7 clip positions.

and does this sound right? I got it off of some site, get bike warm, use mixture screw to get a good idle and if it takes more than 2.5 turns out go to next larger pilot and start over, after that start with largest main you got and keep stepping down til the stumbling on WOT is gone, then go back one step richer, and if it pops when you let off, go up to next pilot jet, readjust mixture, and start over on mains.

and boy is this gonna be a PITA, on her YFZ you just loosen the boot, rotate the caarb, remove access plug and change jets, I gotta remove the damn plastics and raise the tank, take the carb off, slide it around til its wedged in at the right angle for me to get access.

I am gonna later on see if I can get maybe some choke/hot start cables to work.

[Old Head]

Originally posted by maddmatt02
I know that noone can tell me exactly what I need, but I just wanted to hear from others what they got, cuz I know if people with 406's are running 50 pilots and 190 mains I know Ill probably at least need the same or more, and I got whatever needle it came with in there. its on the 4th out of 7 clip positions.

and does this sound right? I got it off of some site, get bike warm, use mixture screw to get a good idle and if it takes more than 2.5 turns out go to next larger pilot and start over, after that start with largest main you got and keep stepping down til the stumbling on WOT is gone, then go back one step richer, and if it pops when you let off, go up to next pilot jet, readjust mixture, and start over on mains.

and boy is this gonna be a PITA, on her YFZ you just loosen the boot, rotate the caarb, remove access plug and change jets, I gotta remove the damn plastics and raise the tank, take the carb off, slide it around til its wedged in at the right angle for me to get access.

I am gonna later on see if I can get maybe some choke/hot start cables to work.

just take the front plastics off when you are messing with the jets. you don't really need them on for a short ride to check your changes.

[underpowered]

well here is how i was told.


get the pilot right first. get it to where it has a nice idle, no cough's while idling and idles smooth, fine tune with mixture screw, and yeah, most sugguest not going more than about 2 1/2 -3 turns out before bumping up the pilot size.


then get the main right. but i was told to star small, then go up till it sputters on top end. once you do that, drop a size and it should be good. then the needle controls everything in between, so adjust accordingingly depending if it is rich or lean.

with my 180, i think i may be a little rich on top, as it sputters ocasionally depending on the weather. i am gonna drop to a 178 and see what happens from there.

[maddmatt02]

alright, got it fired up today, with the 52/180 in there. had no filter cuz I got no boot yet, but i didnt ride it around, just revved it on the concrete patio. anyways I had the screw 2.5 turns out, and seems like I had to open the slide pretty high to get it to stay idling, this would mean the pilot is too rich right, needs more air along with the fuel to have the correct A/F ratio. I might have put the 55 in but im not sure and I dont work on it here so I cant go check. anyways it runs good as long as you dont stab the throttle because the accelerator pump diaphragm and spring gets to the dealership tomorrow. but when looking into the throat of the carb, how big of a gap is there between the front of the slide bottom and the throat. I know it might vary bike to bike a bit but will this have an effect on idle with the mixture screw or do I just get the idle nice with the mixture and adjust the rpm's with the idle screw?

started without the choke pretty easy as well.

also I port matched the intake manifold, if youve ever felt in there, there is a sharp step from the boot and the hard plastioc part that bolts to the head, I removed this step and opened it up at the end of it, I accidentally got it a slight bit bigger on the bottom than the heads port, so I bolted it on and used a sharp pencil and drew on the head where it was smaller than the modified manifold, and used the dremel on the head to slightly taper it out to the manifolds size, and then sanded it to be about as smooth as the rest of the port. barely had to remove a 16th or less so it shouldnt be a big deal, its a nice smooth transition from head to manifold all the way around now, would have been nice to do it after I got the carb on to see if it actually did anything but I gotta do everyt little thing I can right now to beat that YFZ in a couple weeks.

also I swear i ordered 170 175 and 180 but I got 175 178 180, I woudl have gotten the steps inbetween anyways but I didnt see them, Im gonna order a 50 pilot as well as a 172 main.

any benefits to a new needle?

also while looking at the carbs throat with no boot or anything, when i rev it should some gas spray OUT! seems to me the answers no unless cam timings wrong, but then I started thinking the stage 2 cam probably has a good deal of overlap so...

another question, I adjust the valves when the engines cool correct?

MAN I CANT WAIT TO GET THIS THING RIPPIN OUT ON THE DUNES!!!!!

[maddmatt02]

oh and what do you think of putting a tiny o ring in front of the drain screw in the bowl, my float bowl drain screw doesnt seat as good as it could and has a slow drip. at first the float needle must have been dirty cuz I have the vent lines going over the carb before going down and the vent lines started filling with gas, but I took it apart, cleaned it and barely bent the tab a bit just in case, and now it doesnt overflow.

[zrpilot]

Nice play-by-play description there.. I would not get too concerned with anything until the filter, and AP pump are fixed. Jetting will be effected by both those items..

[maddmatt02]

got the pump parts but didnt install because it didnt matter, filter joint backordered at all 3 warehouses in the US, but I think I got it settled.