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pb_paulie_b
04-16-2007, 07:11 PM
First off this is not a 'one-up' or anything against the other polishing how to, just a different way.
Polishing is a test of patience. The actual polishing AKA buffing or 'on a wheel' is the easy part. If you want to learn find a flat piece of aluminum to learn on.
Just as the other thread we will begin with the sanding part. Start with clean metal. Go to the store and buy sand paper. Pick up grits 80, 100, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600. You don't necessarily need all those grits it depends on how rough the surface of the metal is and what kind of metal your working with.
SAND, SAND, SAND. You want to spend alot of time sanding because that really lays the foundation for a nice shiny part. Start with the highest grit that you think will make the surface flat and work your way up. I never start with anything lower then 80 grit and most times not end higher then 400. An example of the steps to take would be to start with 100 then goto 180 to 220 to 320. If your working with soft metal then it's possible to skip some grits.
Here's some tips:
For a surface to shine it must be flat. scratches, pits and corrosion are what makes metal dull. A mirror reflective part WILL take hours and be perfectly flat and void of pits and scratches.
3M makes assorted grits on a sponge backed pad. It's easier on the fingers. I cut them in quarters.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF1831.jpg

Buy a pair of cheap knit gloves to save your finger prints unless you want to go rob a house or something when your done.
Only sand in straight lines, never in a circle.
Don't skip too many grits to save time because it will actually take longer to get the previous marks out.
End with at least 320 grit.
Use repetition not power.
Use ANY machine to save time as long as it sands in straight lines.
A plug in drill and dremel tool are your friends.
Invest in a vice mount set up for your drill and assorted grit flap wheels.
Sanding is dirty. Wear eye, ear, and lung protection if your using any power tool.
Make your own rules and do whatever works for you!

This ghetto set-up from years ago produced some amazing work and all I used was a drill and my hands. You don't need a ton of expensive tools to get started.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/mygettorig-1.jpg

Alternator after 220 grit:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/altmidpolish001.jpg

OK your finally done your sanding and hopefully your piece already has a nice 'brushed' look to it.
Your going to need something to buff out the sanding marks. Before you run out and buy a $280 Baldor try a vice mount drill set-up from www.eastwoodco.com it's cheap and you can use a cheap plug in drill. I used this set-up for the alternator so I can tell you that it is enough if all you want to do is learn and maybe do some stuff on your quad. If you like the art of polishing like me then you will want something more powerful. For less then $70 you can have an 8 inch 3/4 buffer from www.harborfreight.com The one I used for everything I've ever done is still the one I use today.
WHEELS
Goto Eastwood and pick up.
Sisal
Spiral sewn
These are the tried and true standbys. Use the sisal for rough buffing and the spiral sewn to final buff. I personally only use 6 & 8 inch wheels which are perfect size for a 3/4 hp buffer. I have around 20 different wheels but these are still my goto's. Invest in a tapered arbor extension, with it you can go from any wheel to any other wheel in 1 sec.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/taperedaborshaft.jpg

Use good lighting.
Get a good chair. Show me a picture of someone standing and buffing and I'll show you someone who's back and legs give out before their part is shiny. I like bar stools.
wear gloves. Polishing is dirty and you'll find the hotter your part gets the less compound build up you have which is way hotter then you can stand with bare hands.
Pad the floor. You WILL catch the edge of something and drop your part. I use a cardboard box with paper in it. It also contains alot of the mess that flys off the wheel making clean up alot easier.
As you gain experience by all means get other wheels.
Compounds
Again check Eastwood for an explanation of all the colors. Almost universally people use brown (Tripoli) as a rough compound to start with and white (white rough) to finish with. I personally end with green and never use white. Milbro makes the best compounds in my opinion and you can get them at Lowe's.
Let me save you time, clean-up, and wasted compound and tell you more is not better when it comes to applying compound to the wheel. Touch the compound 1 to 2 secs on the wheel.
Wear a face shield and a mask for your lungs.
Do whatever works for you!
I love polishing! Finish a part and want to show it off post it or PM me
With a wheel you let the machine do the work.
Examples:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175055.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175063.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175053.jpg
My Mustangs power steering bracket after 400 grit
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/psbracketafter180320and600005.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/finishedpsbracket021.jpg

Vortech YS trim discharge tube
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF1852.jpg

Mikuni 38mm on my Blaster
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2998.jpg

YOU GET THE POINT :)
Any questions don't hesitate to ask...PB

:D :D :D

mach1stang
04-17-2007, 09:47 AM
yeah i have a question i did a oil catch can on me and my dads mustang and i went all the way up to 600 and wet sanded it, it still has very very fine scrathes i was wondering if your parts have them ?

pb_paulie_b
04-17-2007, 04:24 PM
No none at all. That the real benifit of buffing with a wheel and compound. It would take days to hand polish to the effect of buffing.
It's one thing to shine something. It's another to see yourself :)
Example
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2003.jpg
This
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/polishingareabracket001.jpg
To this
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/finishedysbracket016.jpg

mach1stang
04-17-2007, 04:43 PM
i always use a powerball when i polish.

pb_paulie_b
04-17-2007, 07:07 PM
Powerballs are more for up keeping already polished items or chrome. I've never tried but I don't think they would hold up to the pressure and friction of trying to remove even 600 grit marks. On my 3/4 hp buffer I sometimes bear down on a part against the wheel so hard that the part gets hot enough to burn my hand...PB

mach1stang
04-18-2007, 06:15 AM
you would be surprised on the powerball it can do some polishing

IMSROLL450R
04-19-2007, 08:52 AM
Originally posted by mach1stang
you would be surprised on the powerball it can do some polishing


yeah it will polish a surface thats already smooth but it will never take out any scratches.

maxitout77
04-20-2007, 04:00 PM
what do you think of this kit?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94962

pb_paulie_b
04-20-2007, 08:19 PM
I like it. It has what you need to get started minus the drill or Dremel tool.
Fresh pix. Just did the shifter today :)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3045.jpg

maxitout77
04-23-2007, 06:05 AM
I'm looking into doing my carb in a few weeks. How do you go about sanding in the tight nooks and crannies? The kit from harbor freight has the little wheels to polish in the tight spots, but how well do you sand in there?

pb_paulie_b
04-23-2007, 02:19 PM
I sanded the bowl and as much as I could but not in those tight areas. For those areas I used a Dremel tool and some really small wheels ( about 1 inch) I would consider a carb pretty high on the patience and skill level. I spent around 7 hours on it. I can give you some tips to help though.
Obviously plug all ends to keep debris out of the circuits. Break the carb down as far as possible and do those parts individually. Use Q-tips and a liquid polish like Mothers to clean up in those tight areas.
I have to admit a polished carb will definitely wow the crowd everytime :)
Broke down parts:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000106.jpg
Other various angles:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000097.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000093.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000092.jpg
Extreme close up!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/IM000169-1.jpg

fords4life
04-23-2007, 10:34 PM
I've done some light polishing work, but nothin that big......yet. I can appreciate the amount of time that takes, and dang.....you've spent some serious hours on that stuff and done some amazing work....Good job!

wilkin250r
04-26-2007, 01:52 AM
Originally posted by mach1stang
yeah i have a question i did a oil catch can on me and my dads mustang and i went all the way up to 600 and wet sanded it, it still has very very fine scrathes i was wondering if your parts have them ?

You can get finer than 600 grit, I think even Wal-Mart has 1500 and 2000, and if they don't, I'm sure your local auto-parts store does.

Polishing is really labor-intensive. It's not the sort of thing that can be done in 10 minutes. If you still have scratches, one of two things is happening. Either you didn't sand enough (you didn't remove all the scratches from the previous grit, or you didn't remove the original flaws in the material), or you need to go to the next higher grit and sand some more. Basically, it boils down to more sanding either way. You should be spending a LOT more time sanding then you ever do buffing.

Many of those truly hot show cars have literally hundreds of hours of sanding before paint is applied. Hundreds of hours.

pb_paulie_b
04-26-2007, 03:29 AM
Originally posted by wilkin250r


Many of those truly hot show cars have literally hundreds of hours of sanding before paint is applied. Hundreds of hours.
I have more than 100 hours in the engine bay of my 89' Mustang.

moto04racing
05-16-2007, 10:13 AM
that carb is beatiful..... im gonna do that

messenger13
06-30-2007, 01:48 PM
I am by no means an "expert" at polishing and buffing aluminum . . . but I did learn a LOT a couple of winters ago when I polished and buffed the frame and wheels on my '98 ZX-11. I went to an expert and asked his advise. The first thing he said to me was, "NO SANDPAPER! That's for rookies!". :eek2: Then he went on to tell me about the magic of buffing wheels and compounds with a HIGH-SPEED buffer (10K RPMs or greater! :eek2: ). Here's a good place to start. (http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/)

You want your aluminum to look nicer than chrome? . . . just say "No" to sandpaper, and "Yes" to buffing wheels and compounds. FWIW, buffing is what you do AFTER the polishing phase is done.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/peepwall.gif

http://home.alltel.net/paulsey_dsl/messenger14/Ninja_Last_Day.jpg

pb_paulie_b
06-30-2007, 09:34 PM
I want to talk to him. Hi-speed buffing only works on parts that are basically smooth to begin with. Try that on any rough cast or rough machined part and you will get no where - fast. You will burn though wheel after wheel and still have pits and machine marks. At most you end up with a shiny surface that reflects a distorted image. I have an account with Caswell and can tell you that they offer no 'special wheels' that any other reputable supplier doesn't have. Without specialized machines- expensive and not available to the general public, polishing will always be about hand work and time. I have done many parts without hand sanding but it's rare to get away without using sandpaper.
Know how chromers get their parts so nice and shinny? They are sanded and polished first and THEN dipped in chrome.

messenger13
06-30-2007, 10:22 PM
Yes, there is a time and place for sandpaper. But you should NEVER end with it. Not for a nicer-than-chrome finish.

And no offense Paulie, but I would not call the two items below "finished". But perhaps I'm just more anal than you are. Very possible. :o


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/74Yamahamx175063.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/altmidpolish001.jpg


I apologize if any of this offends you. This is certainly not my intent.

pb_paulie_b
07-01-2007, 04:09 AM
It's all good Joe. I'm here to help and give advice for other people to learn the art of polishing. I have done a goo gobble amount of polishing over many years. The pic of the brake lever is just an example and looks like that only because I choose to leave it that way. You did see all the other examples right? The picture of the alternator you just posted is after 220 grit as I noted right above it in this thread. This pic is of it finished:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/polishedpix013.jpg
I don't have anything to prove.
I have lots of other photos of my work that is completely mirror reflective.
If you don't mind please describe your hi-speed technique and the machines you use w/some close up shots of the finished work...PB

messenger13
07-01-2007, 05:21 AM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b It's all good Joe.
Then I think it's time one of us stops typing. ;) Nice alternator. VERY nice. :cool:

blasterandy
07-06-2007, 05:01 PM
Nice Teddy. :) :devil:

pb_paulie_b
07-06-2007, 07:27 PM
Originally posted by blasterandy
Nice Teddy. :) :devil:
Thanks. If you squeeze his pawl He says I love you Paulie :D

Napalm Nate
01-18-2008, 12:50 PM
I have sanded my parts to 2000 grit paper, then used mother's to polish them. My question is my parts are still a little cloudy will buffing them with a wheel an buffing compound get rid of this? I ordered the harbor freight kit a couple of days ago and I am still waiting on it.

pb_paulie b I saw your quad in the over the bars section in dirtwheels sweet retro

pb_paulie_b
01-18-2008, 01:14 PM
Originally posted by Napalm Nate
I have sanded my parts to 2000 grit paper, then used mother's to polish them. My question is my parts are still a little cloudy will buffing them with a wheel an buffing compound get rid of this? I ordered the harbor freight kit a couple of days ago and I am still waiting on it.

pb_paulie b I saw your quad in the over the bars section in dirtwheels sweet retro
Yeah it will clean it up perfect. Skip right to either green or white compound. 2000 is extreme but it will save time on the wheel. I normally go 400 grit max.
Dirtwheels hooked me up!

pb_paulie_b
01-18-2008, 01:47 PM
I might as well keep the thread goin with a set of shocks I restored and polished :)

Before:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2495-1.jpg

Same shocks done.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/1974yamahamx175073-1.jpg

hondarider101
01-21-2008, 03:58 PM
and what are you going to do with all the parts of this old bike you cleaning up? try and restore it?

pb_paulie_b
01-21-2008, 04:22 PM
Originally posted by hondarider101
and what are you going to do with all the parts of this old bike you cleaning up? try and restore it?
That bike is done I took a year or so restoring it. It's still all original- except for things that were gone like the ripped dry rotted seat and the cracked rear rim. It was in such poor condition that some of the spokes were rusted in half.

pb_paulie_b
01-22-2008, 05:20 PM
Originally posted by hondarider101
and what are you going to do with all the parts of this old bike you cleaning up? try and restore it?
A finished pic of that bike. I polished the rims, fork tubes, kicker, shifter, CDI box, fork caps, most bolts, brake levers and the springs.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3321.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3322.jpg

395Rider
02-08-2008, 11:16 AM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
A finished pic of that bike. I polished the rims, fork tubes, kicker, shifter, CDI box, fork caps, most bolts, brake levers and the springs.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3321.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3322.jpg Show room quality job!

395Rider
02-08-2008, 11:23 AM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
A finished pic of that bike. I polished the rims, fork tubes, kicker, shifter, CDI box, fork caps, most bolts, brake levers and the springs.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3321.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF3322.jpg

Hey Paulie,

When you use the small cone head buffing attachments on a Dremel or drill, can you use the same cone head with different buffing compounds on there? Or do you need to change out each one when you use a different compound. I will be using these to get into the nooks on a 250r engine where I couldn’t reach with the sand paper. I am hoping a black compound will be equivalent to sanding a smooth surface with 800 grit, then work my way down to the green buffing compound.

Please let me know

pb_paulie_b
02-08-2008, 02:40 PM
Originally posted by 395Rider
Hey Paulie,

When you use the small cone head buffing attachments on a Dremel or drill, can you use the same cone head with different buffing compounds on there? Or do you need to change out each one when you use a different compound. I will be using these to get into the nooks on a 250r engine where I couldn’t reach with the sand paper. I am hoping a black compound will be equivalent to sanding a smooth surface with 800 grit, then work my way down to the green buffing compound.

Please let me know
You shouldn't switch compounds on the same cone. I personally will only used 2 different compounds on a piece. I like the black because it gets results fast and then I'll either use green or blue to finish...PB

395Rider
02-09-2008, 09:51 PM
Cool! Thanks for the info! You just saved me a lot of time and money!

Bounce400ex
02-20-2008, 04:25 PM
I have a question. If I wanted to attempt to polish my 400 ex motor, and then seal it to keep the shine, would the sealant trap any heat and cause damage to the motor? I've heard this a few places.

pro-rider46
02-20-2008, 04:29 PM
zoop seal wont. powdercoating will

pb_paulie_b
02-20-2008, 04:36 PM
It's the polishing itself that will raise the temps on an air cooled cylinder not the sealant. When you polish you remove all the almost microscopic hills and valleys of the metal that dissipate heat. I don't think the temp raise from polishing would be enough to overheat your motor unless your already on the verge of running too hot.

Bounce400ex
02-21-2008, 08:45 AM
I want to re-sleeve it and put in a stroker crank, that would put it at about 460cc. Do you think polishing with those mods would push it over the top?

pb_paulie_b
02-21-2008, 03:03 PM
Originally posted by Bounce400ex
I want to re-sleeve it and put in a stroker crank, that would put it at about 460cc. Do you think polishing with those mods would push it over the top?
Aw bro I'm no expert jes know how to make stuff shiny :)
I do know it will run hotter.

pro-rider46
02-22-2008, 05:14 PM
Originally posted by Bounce400ex
I want to re-sleeve it and put in a stroker crank, that would put it at about 460cc. Do you think polishing with those mods would push it over the top?

a 460 will run hot to begin with, but the polishing probably wont have a huge effect, probably not even noticible.

pb_paulie_b
02-24-2008, 11:27 AM
Just finished polishing my current carb today. It's an RDZ alcohol converted Keihin 38mm air stryker powerjeted w/oversize bowl http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/thumbsup2.gif

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0176.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0169.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0173.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0166.jpg

pro-rider46
02-24-2008, 11:30 AM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
Just finished polishing my current carb today. It's an RDZ alcohol converted Keihin 38mm air stryker powerjeted w/oversize bowl http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/thumbsup2.gif

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0176.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0169.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0173.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF0166.jpg

holy crap that is nice, and huge, can you pm me about the way the powerjet works, i was thinking about converting my quad to alky.

budmc77
09-23-2008, 08:48 PM
nice carb..so how do you get into all the little cracks like on a rim or something. I cant get all the way own into the little holes.

icepreddy
11-24-2008, 01:08 PM
That polishing by hand is for the birds!! Whats the easy way besides sending it to the pro's? With the polishing compounds; do they smooth everything out or do i still have to do all the sanding?

pb_paulie_b
11-24-2008, 01:09 PM
Originally posted by icepreddy
That polishing by hand is for the birds!! Whats the easy way besides sending it to the pro's? With the polishing compounds; do they smooth everything out or do i still have to do all the sanding?
Depends on if your piece is already smooth or not.
Most often you always have to sand first...PB

icepreddy
11-26-2008, 01:25 PM
Is there any short cuts to this process. Does dremel sell any attachments to help? I just don't have the time to sit down any polish for 15 hours. Might sound like a wuss but my time is very limited between work, hunting, the Fire Dept. and the girl friend. I've got some pieces that are cast aluminum and the other parts are sand blasted. The idiot that sold me the engine covers sandblasted and painted them.

pb_paulie_b
11-26-2008, 02:41 PM
Originally posted by icepreddy
Is there any short cuts to this process. Does dremel sell any attachments to help? I just don't have the time to sit down any polish for 15 hours. Might sound like a wuss but my time is very limited between work, hunting, the Fire Dept. and the girl friend. I've got some pieces that are cast aluminum and the other parts are sand blasted. The idiot that sold me the engine covers sandblasted and painted them.
lol there are no short cuts other then paying someone else to polish your stuff. Dremal sells all kinds of stuff for polishing but in the end it still will take hours :)

pb_paulie_b
11-26-2008, 03:43 PM
It's been the same for me bro.

Chepiriux
01-10-2009, 02:32 PM
There is really a good amount of info in this thread!! Im really interested in trying to polished some stuff, I just like the way the metal looks when finished. Do you know where can I find like a starter kit for polishing? Also if I have a brand new carb, do I have to sand it? or it will be smooth enough? After you have polished something and dont want it to rust what kind of sealant do you apply to it?

Thanks for the info

pb_paulie_b
01-10-2009, 03:55 PM
Harborfreight and Eastwood both has nice starter kits.
For a new carb you still want to go over it with some 600 grit jes to remove the casting marks and casting splash.
Only things made of iron or steel will rust. Carbs are aluminum so they won't rust ever. Either way I always like to wax or clear over parts after they polish to preserve the shinny look...PB

RaceReflections
02-10-2009, 12:05 AM
You can actually get some compund that has a heavy cut to it. Like Black Emory compund. That and a felt bob to get into the nooks and corners, for the more flat surfaces you can use a 3/4in. felt disk. You most likely will have to use a dremel to polish the carb. It is much much easier when it is disassembled. It will take alot of time to get the carb to a nice enough finish to move to Tripoli compund then from there use a White Rouge. Mother wheel polish is the same thing. You will want to lay it on by hand and use a loose buff at a very low speed to remove it.

It is much easier said than done!

splicer525
02-22-2009, 09:47 PM
amazing work. you have my respect and have given me some inspiration

kiesta00
03-01-2009, 10:48 AM
So you get all your work to look like that using emery to rough cut and green to polish? I just ordered a bunch of stuff from eastwood and wanna get my bike lookin clean like that. I'll post some pictures when I get done.

pb_paulie_b
03-01-2009, 12:19 PM
Originally posted by kiesta00
So you get all your work to look like that using emery to rough cut and green to polish? I just ordered a bunch of stuff from eastwood and wanna get my bike lookin clean like that. I'll post some pictures when I get done.
Well I sand first but yeah 90% of the time I rough cut with black emory and fine cut with Milbro green.

kiesta00
03-01-2009, 10:35 PM
So the emery doesn't have enough grit to smooth out all of the casting marks? Have you ever used the greaseless 80,120, etc grit compounds?

Just want to order the correct materials so I can get my parts to end up looking like a mirror without the hassle of manual sanding.

pb_paulie_b
03-02-2009, 08:19 AM
The sanding is what makes it flat.
Weather you choose to sand or not is your choice but it's much easier to makes stuff flat with sandpaper then it is to polish it flat.

kiesta00
03-07-2009, 05:31 PM
Hey man is motor speed of 1800rpm too slow for buffing aluminum? I picked up one from harborfreight and after reading a while read that 1800 was for plastics and ~3600 was for aluminum...I'm going to be using 8" wheels.

Should I return this motor and get a higher speed motor?

Thanks,
Keith

pb_paulie_b
03-07-2009, 06:47 PM
Originally posted by kiesta00
Hey man is motor speed of 1800rpm too slow for buffing aluminum? I picked up one from harborfreight and after reading a while read that 1800 was for plastics and ~3600 was for aluminum...I'm going to be using 8" wheels.

Should I return this motor and get a higher speed motor?

Thanks,
Keith
I would.
They have a 3600 rpm maybe see if they will exchange it.

woodsracer144
03-08-2009, 07:40 PM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
I might as well keep the thread goin with a set of shocks I restored and polished :)

Before:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/DSCF2495-1.jpg

Same shocks done.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/1974yamahamx175073-1.jpg

HOLY ALOT OF FREE TIME!!!

Hondaexboy
03-10-2009, 03:48 PM
would you recommend doing this method on only rougher, older surfaces? becuse i have some rims on my truck that are only a year old but theyre not looking too great and have some black dots(tar maybe??)
what do you recommend i do??

pb_paulie_b
03-10-2009, 03:59 PM
Originally posted by Hondaexboy
would you recommend doing this method on only rougher, older surfaces? becuse i have some rims on my truck that are only a year old but theyre not looking too great and have some black dots(tar maybe??)
what do you recommend i do??
Something like that I'd say use some bug and tar remover and then powerball em...PB

kiesta00
03-17-2009, 10:11 PM
Paulie...now I see what you mean when you have to SAND SAND SAND lol...i'm polishing a yfz subframe for a friend and its got quite a rough finish on it...it's fun learning the steps to get a mirror shine though


I noticed on a few parts that I polished the parts are somewhat wavy after I can get a good shiny buff on them...do I need to start over and hand sand some more?

I can tell you guys spent hours on those parts, I spent around 2 hours on this subframe with only 120 and 220 grit and still have a long way to go.

pb_paulie_b
03-18-2009, 05:59 AM
Originally posted by kiesta00
Paulie...now I see what you mean when you have to SAND SAND SAND lol...i'm polishing a yfz subframe for a friend and its got quite a rough finish on it...it's fun learning the steps to get a mirror shine though


I noticed on a few parts that I polished the parts are somewhat wavy after I can get a good shiny buff on them...do I need to start over and hand sand some more?

I can tell you guys spent hours on those parts, I spent around 2 hours on this subframe with only 120 and 220 grit and still have a long way to go.
I've found that parts get wavy when you stay in the same area too long. Also when your doing around stuff where the angle of the part changes. If there's a protrusion you'll get a wave where the wheel is grabbing or when the wheel doesn't quite reach into an area. For things like that break out the Dremal and get in there with a smaller wheel that reaches. You'll get it with some experience. I've done it too.
Unfortunately you have to either live with it or sand it flat again.

pb_paulie_b
03-18-2009, 06:09 AM
Here's some shots of my most recent project, my HPI 5b R/C car chassis. I de-anodized, lightened, and shined her up ;)

Stock:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/P2270011.jpg

De-anodized and lightened:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/P3020004.jpg

Polished on a wheel:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/pb_paulie_b/P3140007.jpg

splicer525
03-18-2009, 09:04 PM
you should go ahead and admit your awesome abilities with photoshop. we all know you couldn't actually do these things.

kiddin man, that stuff is awesome. i love seeing these before and after pics

kiesta00
03-18-2009, 10:50 PM
I think my buddy might have hurt the piece when he took a die grinder with a sanding wheel to it...I think he made all the waves and now I gotta come back over it with 120, 220, etc so that I can get to buffing the metal

jersey devil
03-21-2009, 08:36 PM
I start with 220 and that is to take out any scratches.Even some heavy scratches but you have to stay at it.The more you work at it the better the results.I also use a firm sanding pad with the paper wrapped around it on any large flat surfaces.If not then by hand.For any tight areas use a piece of a dowel with the paper wrapped around it to get in tight area's.Use what ever size dowel it calls for depending on how tight of an area.
When all the heavy scratches are out completely I sand again with 320,400,600,800,1200,1500 and finally 2000 grit.Between each different grit of paper you will see the scratches from each grit getting finer and finer. When sanding with the 2000 grit you will see the metal (aluminum or stainless)start to take a slight shine.Remember the more time you take in the preparation the better the quality of final shine!
Now when you buff you must use two wheels.One pad for the buffing and the other pad for the final polishing using the white rouge.The powerball is NOT for this process.ONLY maintaining the finished product.
If you use one pad for both you will get buff marks and real fine scrathes in the shine because the buffing compound has a grit that is not as fine as the final white rouge.
I've been polishing for years and this is my process.Not to say anyone elses is wrong or mine is better.Just passing it on to help others.
Now some will say why all those differfent grit papers and sanding?Believe me if you want a mirror flawless high lustre it is the way to go.
Now you must understand that cast aluminum will never shine as billet aluminum.Cast will shine but you can polish and polish but it will only reach one lustre.But with billet aluminum it will be hard to tell the difference from a chrome finish if done right.

kiesta00
03-30-2009, 11:28 PM
Paulie...have you ever used the greaseless compounds? ~8 hours later i'm still sanding with 120 on one side...the part had deep scratches that are taking forever to get out.

jersey devil
03-31-2009, 10:12 AM
Originally posted by kiesta00
Paulie...have you ever used the greaseless compounds? ~8 hours later i'm still sanding with 120 on one side...the part had deep scratches that are taking forever to get out.

If you would read my previous post it will help you out.Good luck!

pb_paulie_b
03-31-2009, 11:02 AM
Originally posted by kiesta00
Paulie...have you ever used the greaseless compounds? ~8 hours later i'm still sanding with 120 on one side...the part had deep scratches that are taking forever to get out.
Yep I've used them with limited success.
They have some issues though. The ones I used I bought from Eastwood. They come in a plastic wrap tube that once you open the whole fuggin tubes like to harden up like cement. It's hard to get a uniform coat on the wheel with them. Also once you use say 220 grit on a wheel, you can never use anything else.
On the bright side they could save some time for ya and aren't real expensive to play with.
There is some glue-on compound floating around now. I tested the 400 grit and was happy but it doesn't stay sharp on the wheel long and you have to wait overnight for it to dry.

kiesta00
03-31-2009, 11:39 AM
I could kill that guy for using an angle grinder with a sanding disk to try and smooth out the casting marks!! I have to sit there with 80 grit over and over again to get out those deep scratches.

Heres a crappy picture of what I've done on one side so far...I need to come back over it with some 400 and maybe 600 then start with the emery.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/1238477633.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/1238521401.jpg

I'll post some more up when I take some pictures with a real camera. I've got probably 13 hours in this piece and still have a while to go! I've got the utmost respect for you guys.

pb_paulie_b
03-31-2009, 03:28 PM
Haha looking good bro!
I've tried ever new gadget that has come through the market for years and I still just use my hands and the buffer for 90% of the stuff I do.
I like my stuff to be mirror and it takes alot of time. Thats the reason I only do my own stuff.
Keep it up man your almost there...PB

kiesta00
03-31-2009, 10:10 PM
Heres some pics of the tail end of the piece...i'm still not happy :mad: I bought a 8" grinder/buffer combo from harbor freight and I guess the motor isn't over a 1/2 hp...whenever I start to bear down on the part the motor can't keep the wheel spinning.

Anyway...I think I might have to go to 600 grit wetsanded on the part...I can't seem to get the 400 wetsand marks out completely with the sewn wheel/emery and the weak buffer that I have. Maybe its me but I just can't seem to get that high luster shine...maybe i'm expecting too much from cast aluminum?

Hand sanded with 120 grit (notice the two bumps on the left side)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/05.jpg

After 150/220/320 on a palm sander and 400 wetsanded by hand (two bumps on left side are gone)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/06.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/07.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/08.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/09.jpg

Polished with emery/sewn cotton; tripoli/sewn cotton; green compound/loose cotton
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/01.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/02.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/03.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/Polished%20YFZ%20Subframe/04.jpg

I'm disapointed with my results...:ermm:

Dont mind the string everywhere lmao

pb_paulie_b
04-01-2009, 02:30 PM
I'm using the same buffer.
Your problems are from either a real crappy alloy of aluminum, or your not spending enough time on it.
I think your right though it will prolly be faster to sand with the 600 grit and then go back to work.
Try a Sisal wheel/black emory combo and then move to a spiral sewn/white rough combo.
Just putting it out there a sewn/emory combo will not produce a high luster shine. Black emory is too rough to bring out the color and shine.

kiesta00
04-01-2009, 05:18 PM
I have a sisal wheel but I think its messed up...all of the strands of fiber sticking straight out...I may try getting another sisal wheel and try a 6" instead of the 8" so that the motor won't struggle so bad when I put pressure on the piece. I actually put all the compounds on the piece...I guess the main thing is the 400 grit scratches that are still present in the work.

Thanks for the tips man...

kiesta00
04-26-2009, 03:04 PM
I've been playin a few nights in the shed...here's some of my recent work. Still can't seem to get the cast parts free of imperfections even after sanding to 600 grit. I think I need a new sisal wheel mine is frayed out pretty bad. I polished a few billet pieces and its amazing the difference in luster compared to cast aluminum.

Started with this:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/brakecaliper.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/caliper/DSC02383.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/caliper/DSC02385.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/caliper/DSC02384.jpg
[IMG]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/caliper/DSC02387.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i106/kiesta00/caliper/DSC02390.jpg

I found some 150 grit and 240 grit abrasive sanding disks at harbor freight that do wonders to casting marks with a die grinder. It saved me HOURS of sanding time.

Up next will be my billet axle and carrier...

pb_paulie_b
04-26-2009, 06:44 PM
wow, looking shiny and nice- respect!

pro-rider46
08-17-2009, 06:39 AM
im still sort of a amature with polshing on a wheel. well i dont have wheels, i have bonnets. but here is so far what i have got.

pb_paulie_b
08-17-2009, 08:40 AM
It's beautiful.
You running asphalt drags?

pro-rider46
08-17-2009, 11:21 AM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
It's beautiful.
You running asphalt drags?

wow, thanks. i run clay drags, those american racers hook hard on packed clay. but i am thinking about going down to a test and tune night for kicks and giggles.

pb_paulie_b
11-04-2009, 03:12 PM
Just a heads up to guys who are thinking about trying this type of polishing.
Northern has their 8" 3/4hp buffer on sale for $70 shipped.
That's a pretty good deal considering it's about what I paid for the same buffer a few years ago at HF.
I had a friend give me a Banshee roller to play around with.
No doubt I'll be polishing some stuff on it :)

4x4_war
11-18-2009, 12:08 PM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
Depends on if your piece is already smooth or not.
Most often you always have to sand first...PB

So how do you sand and polish in the fins on the engine?

pb_paulie_b
11-18-2009, 01:59 PM
Originally posted by 4x4_war
So how do you sand and polish in the fins on the engine?
I would pay someone before I did something like that.
If you want to get crazy use a Dremal tool and some small sanding rolls and then some Dremal felt bobs.

4x4_war
11-18-2009, 03:59 PM
so where would i take it for something like that? would i have to send it in the mail, or ik there's a honda dealer by my area, would they do it? would an acid wash help or hurt the engine?

pb_paulie_b
11-18-2009, 04:21 PM
No the dealer will not do that.
google polishing services.
You most likely will have to ship it out.

pro-rider46
01-29-2010, 04:54 PM
so hows the progress on the banshee?

pb_paulie_b
01-29-2010, 10:50 PM
Originally posted by pro-rider46
so hows the progress on the banshee?
I've made some nice progress but no polish work yet lol

pro-rider46
02-17-2010, 05:38 PM
Originally posted by pb_paulie_b
I've made some nice progress but no polish work yet lol

oh, thats good. i cant wait to get to see your polishing work on it.

94racing
02-18-2010, 08:36 PM
youre realy good at this. im encouraged to do some of this on my engine looks great. my dad has a history of doing this to most of his pull truck stuff. he does really high quality work so its realy nice looking and he used the same method as you. nice job

Napalm Nate
02-28-2010, 12:03 AM
thanks for the tips on polishing here is some of the stuff I did

Napalm Nate
02-28-2010, 12:04 AM
clutch side

Napalm Nate
02-28-2010, 12:05 AM
pro armor front bumper

Napalm Nate
02-28-2010, 12:08 AM
last one