lift kit and tire help

[bert400]

Ok i want to get some bigger tires and rims with either a 4in or 6in lift kit. What do you guys think would look better? If you could post some pics of your old trucks with lifts that would be great. im kinda leaning towards 6in with 35s or 37s but idk yet. (Thats two fourwheelers and a dirtbike loaded up on it too if you were wondering)
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o55/bert400/100_1473.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

[ilpadrino113]

i wouldn't go with bigger rims, but i'd stick to 33's or 35's depending on what axles that truck is running.

Anything more than a 35 would not drie very well on the road, even if you did have the axles to handle em.

[Hondadudeehhhh]

on that particular truck you mostly see a 6inch lift with 35s. The GM's with 11" axles you can lift to the sky and throw 40s under them
here is my buddy's truck. It was also his DD for a long time
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/JBhonda400ex/glahn1.jpg

[coolex]

im selling my jeep for a lifted truck right now i want atleast a 6 inch lift with 35, that is the minume i want to go

the bigger the better

[hawaiikfx400]

id go with the six, it seems like after you do a lift you always want to go higher so save the money now and go 6 so you dont regret it.and like others id go 35x14 would look good.i like swampers their hard to balance and wear fast but nothing looks better on a older chev imo.:macho

[bert400]

Ya ill probably go with some 35 swampers and 6in. my brothers got them on his truck with a 6 in lift and it looks mean.

[coolex]

Hondadudeehhhh


how big is that truck u posted is that 40,


that is exacly what i want, and it will be my daily driver for a while to

[mr._bowtie]

Ive got a 78 Blazer with a 4" lift on 33x12.50's on it. I think it looks about right for something thats going to see any street time. If your gonna make it a DD I would keep in mind that huge tires dont handle for crap, especially in wet or slick conditions.

Ive got some pics of it but Ill have to post em tomorrow off a different pc.

[Hondadudeehhhh]

Originally posted by coolex
Hondadudeehhhh


how big is that truck u posted is that 40,


that is exacly what i want, and it will be my daily driver for a while to

Like i said, its a friend of mines truck so i dont know all the details but when i do i will post them. To my knowledge it is an 81 Chevy 1500 short box with 11" axle. I guess with that size axle you dont have many limitations and its less than 1K to put them in the air 11 inches. He threw some swamper 40's TSL's (great tires) under it and drove it pretty much every day from his junior year of high school until his sophomore year of college. He got an r6 last year so he wasnt driving the truck around as much. You dont see someone beat the hell out of a rig like he did then drive it home everyday like he did. Very clean truck, i will post more pics if i can find some

[underpowered]

never heard of an 11" axle before, what axle is it?

GM measures axles by #of ring gear bolts, the 10 bolt, 12 bolt, and 14 bolt. ford and chrysler go by inches. like the chrys. 8.25. ford 8.8 and 9"


but anyway, i would go 6" lift and 35-36" tires. much more than a 35" and the DD capabilities go downhill fast. if it has a 10 bolt, 35 is the biggest you want to go, any bigger and the axle cannot take it. witha 12 bolt, 36-37 is the limit, and the 14 bolt can take up to about a 40" tire, maybe a bit more but for a HD axle the 14 bolt is one of the weaker ones, not as strong at D60's

[Ralph]

Someone please reply to this thread, testing something...

[firefighterjosh]

k:D

[mr._bowtie]

Heres a picture of my K5... It got a 4" lift with 33's Its still really driveable on the street and the thing will eat! Ive had it in some hairy spots and rooted out of em.

[Hondadudeehhhh]

Originally posted by underpowered
never heard of an 11" axle before, what axle is it?

GM measures axles by #of ring gear bolts, the 10 bolt, 12 bolt, and 14 bolt. ford and chrysler go by inches. like the chrys. 8.25. ford 8.8 and 9"



i knew ford went by inches, i wasnt sure about GM. He may have said 11 bolt or 12 bolt. He was telling me about it like a year ago. Next time i see him ill get some specs. Sorry if anything i said was misleading or misinforming

[Warrioreater400ex]

well i would say 6" and 35's.... 10 bolts are pretty weak. My friend has a shortbed (ill put pics on when i get home from work, its really a beautiful truck) chevy, 82 i think, with a 454 and a 700r4 i think, maybe TH400 dont remember, and a 14 bolt rear with a detroit, and he has an open 10 bolt front, and he breaks hubs, joints, shafts, pinions, all the time with his 40" TSLs.


but my advice to you, is get AT LEAST a rear locker... a fully locked vehicle with 33s will go further offroad than 35s or 37s with open diffs...


me.. lol im nursing my toyota 8" locked axles with 5:29 gears and 38.5x14.50 SX's... ive only gone through one locker and 4 birfields... :devil:

[mr._bowtie]

I wouldnt put a locker in a daily driver... Just get a good quality posi trac carrier. Eaton makes a really good one. Ive run em before and you wont be disapointed other then they are pricey!!


But yes I agree, keepin things locked in helps tremndously off road.

[underpowered]

Originally posted by mr._bowtie
I wouldnt put a locker in a daily driver... Just get a good quality posi trac carrier. Eaton makes a really good one. Ive run em before and you wont be disapointed other then they are pricey!!


But yes I agree, keepin things locked in helps tremndously off road.


well for a DD a locker is better than a posi trac. a locker is selecable between open and locked. a posi kicks in and out and can be dangerous if it kick in around a corner in wet or slick conditions. the lcoker allows you to choose, usually either air or electric actuated. i think you may be thinking of a spool. a spool is about like welding the spiders, it locks the wheels together permanently.

[Warrioreater400ex]

Correct, A locker kicks in when one axle shaft turns one more revolution than the other.... the only time i have had it chirp my tires was like cutting the wheel to lock and turning all the way around...


unless you drop the big bucks for a ARB air locker or a Detroit Elocker..


IMHO, Posis arent worth the money offroad, they might help on road, but off road that 20 or 30 percent traction they provide to the traction side isnt enough to do much of anything...

[mr._bowtie]

Originally posted by underpowered
well for a DD a locker is better than a posi trac. a locker is selecable between open and locked. a posi kicks in and out and can be dangerous if it kick in around a corner in wet or slick conditions. the lcoker allows you to choose, usually either air or electric actuated. i think you may be thinking of a spool. a spool is about like welding the spiders, it locks the wheels together permanently.


No your thinking of a air locker, those are pricey. Just a standard mechanical locker is basically engaged all the time. Like warrior eater said if one tire slips more then the other then it locks together. They will lock up going around turns, its actually really hard on tires and axle shafts on something thats street driven regularly.

If you want to go the air locker route then yea thats great but I was refering to a mechanical locker that you have no control over as a driver. A spool like what we use in our drag car means the axles are always locked together all the time, period.

A GOOD posi is worth it, dont waste your money on cheap ones. Ive run Eatons in a couple street cars and am tickled to death with em. They are in no way dangerous on the street, they are designed specifically for street use. They will allow enough slip so you can turn and get around but if you pour the power to them then they lock in and will spin both tires. Granted to get a good rebuildable one if you dont have any conections your lookin at 800+.

[Warrioreater400ex]

A locker isnt that bad on the street because the it only locks under power, you can coast around all the corners you want, and its when one axle shaft does one more revolution than the other..

Dang.. 800 for a good posi?:eek2:

you can get an e locker or ARB for that much almost!!

[06YFZ450SE]

Here is a pic of my old DD its an 87 with 9" suspension 3" body on 39.5 super swamper TSL's

[mr._bowtie]

You can run a locker if ya want, but Im tellin ya that they lockup ALOT. Like when you tryin to turn into tight parking spaces, do a u turn, basically most anywhere. It will eat on the tires, been there done that.


Like I said, a GOOD posi isnt cheap. but a good one that actually works like its supposed to is worth it in the long run. You dont have to twist to many axles in half and chew through to many sets of tires to make up the diff.

[coolex]

this one is for sale locally for 3200 that im thinkign about getting for a DD

[coolex]

forgot pic:ermm:

[mr._bowtie]

If the truck is as nice in person as it looks in the pics then Id buy it! Thats a pretty good price, I want to make sure the motor, transmission, transfer case, and running rear was all in decent shape. That truck an 80 model?

[coolex]

88 i believe

[coolex]

i lied its a 87 K10

40,000 miles on fuel injected 350 Engine
6" Suspension Lift/All Springs
36" Swamper TSL Tires
Body redone a few years ago - Also Painted (Yellow)
100 Miles on 4:10 Richmond Gears
Lots of Spare Parts
4 Wheel Drive

[mr._bowtie]

Id buy it. Even if the tranny is bad they are cheap to repair... I just had a turbo 350 redone and got a new converter for 250 bucks.

Id ask about the transfer case and make sure the 4x4 works right.

[coolex]

i need to sell this first:eek2: lol

4000bo:D

[300exQuadracer]

this is my 79 1 ton show truck its got a 4" lift and 33's but it sets the same height as my buddies 3/4 ton with 6"lift
i have been through a lot of old chevys in my day (8 to be exact all from 77-87) and from experience 35" tires on up on a stock 10 bolt you tear stuff up quick if your hard on it, i suppose it is also a 208 transfer, baisically standard with most of the 80's 1/2 tons it also wont take the abuse i's look into a 203 or 205 case both heavy heavy cases but either can also still be broke if you use it offroad, i've seen it 1st hand
most 6" lifts and 35" tires your tires will rub the fenderwells if you put it on a bind but for a pavement pounder and weekend offroader you most likely will be alright
but i would deffinately try to find a dana 44 (you can find in 6 or 8 lug) and even a semi or full floater rearend if you plan on using this truck

[underpowered]

Originally posted by mr._bowtie
No your thinking of a air locker, those are pricey. Just a standard mechanical locker is basically engaged all the time. Like warrior eater said if one tire slips more then the other then it locks together. They will lock up going around turns, its actually really hard on tires and axle shafts on something thats street driven regularly.

If you want to go the air locker route then yea thats great but I was refering to a mechanical locker that you have no control over as a driver. A spool like what we use in our drag car means the axles are always locked together all the time, period.

A GOOD posi is worth it, dont waste your money on cheap ones. Ive run Eatons in a couple street cars and am tickled to death with em. They are in no way dangerous on the street, they are designed specifically for street use. They will allow enough slip so you can turn and get around but if you pour the power to them then they lock in and will spin both tires. Granted to get a good rebuildable one if you dont have any conections your lookin at 800+.


o got ya, your talking about a limited slip, not a locker or a posi.


a locker is selectable like air or electric. a posi is a mechanical locker like the G-80 gov lock that comes in many GM vehicles. a limited slip is what you are referring to. it uses a clutch pack in the rear end to spread power between the wheels, but not truly lock the together.

but the mechanical locker, like the Gov lock GM uses is not engaged all the time. here is how it works.


it acts as as open diff. until it senses about a 100 RPM different between the wheels. it does this using throw weights. once the difference is detected, it "locks" both wheel together, like a true locker. however, for safety purposes it will not lock over 15MPH to keep from breaking parts. but after years of wear, and abuse they are know to malfunction and lock in sooner of later than they are designed to. this is where it caused problems like locking in around corners unexpectedly, locking in at high rates of speed, staying locked or not locking in at all.

for a DD is is not the best, a limited slip is great for a DD/weekend warrior though but a locker will be the best as it locks the wheel together, unlike a LSD that will still allow slip and never truely locks the wheels up.

[Warrioreater400ex]

http://a110.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_a121709501ee8997c6be9c72ed30e4cd.jpg

dont let it fool you, those are 42" TSLs.. carbed 454...

heres one clean (small pic, but he keeps it spotless, and the custom dump bed :p)

http://a411.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/36/l_0f7554cf2e07f1d2b86e4c86aacbf7d2.jpg