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View Full Version : Tether kill switch & Reverse Limiter override???



quadnice
03-25-2007, 10:22 PM
So has anyone figured these items out yet???
Where to connect into, which wire gets the splice / connection???
Got a XC race this weekend & tethers are mandatory.

I'd also like to do away w/ the reverse rev limiter

Thanks

quadnice
03-26-2007, 10:05 PM
Anybody???
Very Busy working & have not even had a chance to begin to look @ the Tether

feature05
03-26-2007, 11:32 PM
I don't know if this is what your looking for, but it is kill switch with a tether I think.

http://www.jokersracing.com/content-product_info/product_id-5565/kawasaki_kfx_450_kill_switch_pro_armor.html

quadnice
03-26-2007, 11:44 PM
That's the exact same one I already have

1 wire should ground to frame? - No it's aluminum, So my guess would be ground to the negative @ the battery,
& the other to _____ color wire???


Thanks though!!!

chipworkz
03-27-2007, 12:00 AM
The easiest thing to do is remove the kill switch housing and look at wires connected to it. If you have a digital volt meter just check to see which one is the ground. Follow the wire harness down under the hood and find a good place to splice into the one that wasn't the ground.
Use male and female connectors so if you need to remove the tether switch you can just plug the spliced wire back together.
I can trace it out tomorrow night and let you know if you are not able to.
Hope this helps

Harbin_22
03-27-2007, 01:20 AM
just so you know, aluminum is a conductor. You can ground it to the frame.

DanW
03-27-2007, 04:14 PM
Originally posted by chipworkz
The easiest thing to do is remove the kill switch housing and look at wires connected to it. If you have a digital volt meter just check to see which one is the ground. Follow the wire harness down under the hood and find a good place to splice into the one that wasn't the ground.
Use male and female connectors so if you need to remove the tether switch you can just plug the spliced wire back together.
I can trace it out tomorrow night and let you know if you are not able to.
Hope this helps

That is the same thing that I have always done.:cool:

CannondaleRider
03-27-2007, 06:02 PM
Originally posted by Harbin_22
just so you know, aluminum is a conductor. You can ground it to the frame.

Yep.

I thought the response was funny:p

quadnice
03-28-2007, 06:47 AM
Benchracers!!!

QUADROOKIE
03-28-2007, 07:19 AM
Originally posted by quadnice
Benchracers!!!
LOL!

bwamos
03-28-2007, 08:45 AM
Aluminum I beleive is an even better conductor than steel. ;)

I'd toss you an install walkthrough.. but being EFI.. I don't know if theres anything goofy about the CDI.

quadnice
03-28-2007, 08:33 PM
Originally posted by bwamos
Aluminum I beleive is an even better conductor than steel. ;)

I'd toss you an install walkthrough.. but being EFI.. I don't know if theres anything goofy about the CDI.


Thank You!
&
My thoughts exactly!
My quad is @ a shop being fitted for parts all week, & I have Little / No shop time with the owner!

IF.......my work day goes SMOOTH
I'll have some shop / install time Thurs. evening B4 heading to the Iowa XC (muddy???) Race.......Friday afternoon!

quadnice
03-29-2007, 05:49 PM
Pingel kill switch is needed -Open circuit
Or hopefully a plug & play wire harness from another quad is the same.
So far we do not know which 1 will work yet,...If any, except 1 built for the KFX450R

kickin440
03-30-2007, 11:35 AM
Using a normally closed tether switch find the yellow wire with blue tracer tap the switch in and both switches will work. Straight from Kawasaki dealer tech department.:D See you sunday. Ill have a white one on the stock line #47 :)

nicker71
08-03-2007, 01:53 PM
thanks kickin440 we used a tusk normally closed and wired it to the blue wire with the yellow tracer and worked just fine. The only problem we had was that the tusk was for 7/8 bars. We also had a pro armor kill switch that we couldnt get to work because it was a normally open switch.

kickin440
08-03-2007, 05:45 PM
Originally posted by nicker71
thanks kickin440 we used a tusk normally closed and wired it to the blue wire with the yellow tracer and worked just fine. The only problem we had was that the tusk was for 7/8 bars. We also had a pro armor kill switch that we couldnt get to work because it was a normally open switch.

Yea the bars are kinda a pain I had to mount mine towards the end of the bars by the clutch lever to get it around em.:)

bustedknuckle
08-04-2007, 06:13 AM
the easiest thing we did was buy baldwinmotorsports complete system it has the teather a start button and all you do is plug it in no cutting wires.. be carefull when you cut in the wireing ive saw several persons blow up there coil if its not spliced right.

spincr4hire
08-22-2007, 05:36 AM
I called Baldwin yesterday, they want $150 for the kit..YIKES!

MOTORIDER68
08-22-2007, 09:21 AM
$150 is a lot but seems the way to go if it were for me. No headache and no cutting wires. Why are you wanting to do away with your rev limiter. These bikes are not like a 300ex or warrior or something...they rev to the moon already.

spincr4hire
08-22-2007, 12:33 PM
he's talking about the reverse rev limiter

quadnice
08-30-2007, 08:03 PM
So has anybody tried to figure out the Reverse rev limiter???

I race XC
&
Try my best to always go forward!

But,.......when you run into bottlenecks,.......choose alternative lines, that are not always the greatest @ the heat of the moment.

Having some power to do something in reverse,.....would be good!!!

predmxr05
09-15-2007, 06:55 AM
hey guys, my friend just bought a pro design kill switch for his 450r, and im pretty sure thats its a normally open switch, (it just has two wires coming from it, a ground and one other wire that hooks up too....) just wondering if anybody had any luck with this kinda of design.
thanks