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View Full Version : Working on my 300ex, would like advice



rem308
02-27-2007, 05:38 AM
I am working on my '97 300ex and have a few questions for people. I just started working on a gas leak. I will tear into it more tonight when I get home. When you have the gas turned 'on' it drips REALLY fast out of the carb, but nothing when you turn the gas off. I am really hoping that it's just the float stuck open, and will look into this tonight. I will try the old 'tap on the side of the bowl' gig, but I will probably have to pull the whole carb and take it apart. What do you all think? From what I've read, this is pretty common. Should I buy a rebuild kit while I'm at it?

Also, the front brakes haven't worked at all since I bought the bike. I have the reservoir full, and top off. I then loosen the first bleeder valve and pump the front brake, it will push a little air and fluid out, but it sounds as though the bleeder valve is letting air in as well. I always thought these were '0ne way' valves.
How do you all bleed the brake systems?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

300exOH
02-27-2007, 07:21 AM
It most likely is a stuck float like you said. I don't think you'll need to rebuild it unless something is worn out/broken. You should be able to get away with cleaning it well and reassemble it(with the float adjusted).

The bleeder is NOT a one way valve. Just pump up the brake and hold it while you open the bleeder, let the air/fluid escape and close the bleeder then repeat until you get nothing but fluid(no air bubbles). Don't let off the brake until you have closed the bleeder or it will suck air back into the system. Also make sure you keep the fluid reservoir full or you will have to start over again.

rem308
02-27-2007, 10:52 AM
Thanks. I will give this a go tonight. I will clean the carb and hopefully be able to stop the leaking fuel, as this is the biggest pain.

As for the brakes, thanks for the info. I may buy one of those kits from the local auto part store to just help vaccum out the air. Either way, your information is appreciated. I didn't reallize how the valve works on the brakes, but it makes sense.


Thanks a lot.

300exOH
02-27-2007, 11:41 AM
Originally posted by rem308
Thanks. I will give this a go tonight. I will clean the carb and hopefully be able to stop the leaking fuel, as this is the biggest pain.

As for the brakes, thanks for the info. I may buy one of those kits from the local auto part store to just help vaccum out the air. Either way, your information is appreciated. I didn't reallize how the valve works on the brakes, but it makes sense.


Thanks a lot.

Glad I could help. The brake bleeder kits work very well. I bought a miti-vac brake bleeder from autozone when I got new brake lines and it made the job much easier/faster.

bwamos
02-27-2007, 12:16 PM
If that doesnt fix it.. odds are the rubber tip on the float needle got hard and isn't sealing anymore. Just replace the needle and you should be set.

But you can get kits that are pretty cheap, sometimes less than the OEM needle alone.

You can also buy a bleeder that's a small hose w/a 1 way valve in it for a few bucks. Hook it up, and pump the brakes until you dont see bubbles in the tubing anymore. Works great.

1-way valve style bleeder $10 (http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=9518)

rem308
02-27-2007, 07:39 PM
Tonight I took the carb off and cleaned it real well. It wasn't very dirty at all, but after cleaning it and putting it back on, it quit leaking. To be honest, a drip or two still came out, but it was nothing like before, so I'm happy.

I ended up getting it together and had to take it for a spin and it ran fine.

I picked up a bleeder kit from the local parts store today and I ended up working on the brakes for quite some time. I was able to get the air to stop coming through, instead it was just steady fluid. I roll the quad and hit the front brakes and it does slow the bike down, but I don't have enough pressure to really do much good.

The brake just doesn't get 'firm' enough, instead it lets you pull the brake all the way in. I worked on this for a long time, and have it so that nothing but good clean brake fluid is coming out of the valve when you open it.

Anyone seen this problem before?

rem308
02-27-2007, 07:42 PM
The more I thought about it, I thought maybe it was the master cylinder, so I pulled one off of a Suzuki that I have in the garage. I pulled the master cylinder and assembly off, put it on the Honda and went through the same scenario. It just will not build enough pressure...it is better, but not enough pressure to actually stop the quad.
I went through the hoses and there are no leaks.

???

Dan229
02-27-2007, 08:21 PM
You can check the master cyclinder by putting your finger over the outlet hole and pumping the brake lever. If it builds pressure, take the line off of the master cyclinder and put in inside a can of brake fluid and then find some hose to fit over the bleeder nipple and draw a vacuum on the bleeder(syringe or pump ball). You will have to do it a few times but that will pull the fluid from the can and clear out everthing in the line. Do that to both sides and you should be good to go.