35mm pwk airstryker

[newnick]

Are there any racers or builders here that have experience with one of these carbs on a Blaster?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Makes a lot of difference in performance on a stock piped or modded engine, real good for short tracks that are a little tight & some big tracks.
On a full mod engine & big tracks 38mm works good.
Neil

[newnick]

I don't really like to ask jetting questions on a forum, but thats why I'm asking about this carb. The quad came with a 42 pilot, clip in the middle of the needle. It's a ported airsal, etc. used for mx. We're far south, hot and humid. Anyway, it's really fat set up like it came. I went to a 38 pilot and dropped the needle all the way down and it's better but still not right yet. I'm wondering what others have experienced to see if I'm headed in the right diection.
I understand the airscrew is very sensitive, do you agree?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

That screws not realy that sensitive unless you have to small of a pilot jet.
Normally about a turn & a half to two turns will get you a good idle if you have the right size pilot.
How much compression you running,??, what size main jet & any addvance on the ignition.
Neil

[newnick]

180 on the compresion, the main is currently a 165 but its to big also, trying to get the pilot and needle lined out before I work on the main. I'm not sure on the timing, I haven't pulled the flywheel yet to see if it has a key or not. It doesn't have an adjustable stator plate though.

[C-LEIGH RACING]

165 main sounds kinda lean for 180 compression, you ran the engine long enough to get the bottom end cleared out, you know they can puddle a little & cause it to seam like its to rich.
Better safe than sorry, try to keep it rich if you can.
Neil

[newnick]

Several practice sessions and two moto's and a new plug looks pretty black. I'm just trying to get a general idea of where the pilot and needle needs to be from someone that actually has set one or two up. I feel as though I can still go down at least one pilot size because the airscrew is out about 2 1/2 turns to get a good idle.
I dropped the needle until it transitioned smoothly while rolling on the throttle. I haven't did anything with the main, because I'm not satisfied yet with the other two and from what I can tell it's still fat. The puddling is one of my concerns while I'm trying to tune it in the neighborhood, I don't want the neighbors getting mad.

[C-LEIGH RACING]

I see.
I've done quite a few blasters over the years & feel pretty safe with giving proper information. If I dont know about something or its something I've never done before I dont mind saying I never did it before, always best to be up front about stuff like that.

180 compressions right good on a blaster engine. I've ran 200 & higher before, but had to pay close attention to the jetting.
That blaster engine being air cooled, is an old school engine & when you run compression that high you need plenty of fuel to keep it cool & even more so if the ignitions been bumped up any.

With the 165 jet, could be a combination of things causing it to run as it does.
Pipe, ignition setting, reeds, how the dome & squish is cut, stinger size, all could have an affect on the jetting.
Your compressions high enough at 180 to burn more fuel than your putting in the engine, somethings just causing it not to.
You do know you can slot the ignition stator plate to addvance the timming, right.
Neil

[newnick]

I'm aware of slotting the ignition plate. I'd prefer not to unless I really had to, and I'm not sure it doesn't already have a key . From what we've discussed so far, I should require a larger main. Any opinion on the pilot and needle.
Thanks for helping me out.
Nick