Really want an R...think I'm hooked

[ridemyrice]

This spring, I'm going to have a real hard time not buying a 250r. In times past, I've had an '89 cr125, '91 Suz DR250, '91 RMX250, '01 400ex with the usual goodies, '03 cbr600rr, and an '95 f150 4x4 that I had a 393 stroker built for. Now my only toy is an '05 Kawasaki ZX10r.

I really like all the new 450r's-especially the new Kaw coming out, and have ridden the yfz, but I really don't wanna spend all that cabbage when new stuff is always going to be coming out.

NOBODY around me rides a 250r. I want one for that reason, because they handle great and are light, and because they seem to be debateably just as good or better than the new crowd with TONS of inexpensive aftermarket! I look on ebay everyday for '88 or '89s, and I really want one that is somewhat close to original and hasn't been all cocked up. Haven't had the chance to ride one yet. Ridden a couple of Banshee's...lightswitch power with conestoga wagon suspension. I rode mostly woods and trails, hills, rivers, fast blast on open fields...not too much into racing.

I've been reading a lot about them. A couple questions. How big is TOO big for a RELIABLE, all around powerful motor on premium gas? I've heard a lot of people say the 310 range is that balance due to not having to bore/split cases. Seems 265pv motors are very popular for everything. ESR, Sparks, LRD, CT...what are some other good kits/builders? I understand porting plays a huge role with a 2 stroke depending on riding type, but does the porting have to be matched to the type of exhaust as well? Say I got an R in good shape and got a top end kit for it. Is it always a good idea to go thru the bottom too and replace seals and bearings? Keep the stock crank or go HotRods? Will a properly jetted 250r that has good top end and compression foul plugs like a madman? How long does a good top end last for, and do you have to bore/hone each time, or just inspect bore diameter/roundness and re-hone/replace piston and rings? Do you have to go thru the bottom end each time?

Sorry for the long post...hope I don't sound like an idiot, I'm actually pretty mechanically inclined...I've been a Journeyman Machinist for 9 years, CNC service, and most recently Application Engineer and have always worked on my own stuff so far.

Hope you guys can tell me some things I don't know!

[CorvetteZ06]

yes, the 310cc has great reliabilty, but since your doing a lot of woods riding, i would DEF. go with a 265cc powervalve cylinder, you can buy it from ESR and then send it to c leigh racing to have it ported, he can custom port that cylinder for ya and make it into a beast! plus, it will be super reliable. CT/pro-X cylinders are also very good. jetting is defianetly important, and also is the exhaust. you want an exhaust that matches with your cylinder and porting. Hot rod cranks are very good, and I have had nothing but great reliablity from them, but OEM is a little better. It sounds like your really good with mechanics, so you could buy a clymer manual, and tear down the bottom end. its not expensive to replace the bearings and seals, and its peace of mind knowing everything is good inside the bottom end. ALso, if you change the trans oil regularly, the bottom end will last you years and years. if you have your machine properly jetted and tuned, and run a ngk iridium spark plug, and run around a 40:1 or 50:1 fuel ratio, you should have no problems with fouling plugs. Goodluck, and yes, the 250R is still the king, even with all these new kids on the block :D

[250Renvy]

You are lucky because there are probably 5 or 6 really decent ones for sale near you now. If you are serious about getting one, I'd figure out what you want to do quick because once spring comes people will be less likely to dicker and there will be more demand. It's prime buying time right now.

If you get something that hasn't been completely rebuilt in the last 5 years then it's a good idea to go through and completely replace all bearing/seals and rebuild/revalve shocks for your riding. If you want an unmolested R that's not beat on, you will pay more because it's always cheaper to have someone else do motor work. You could always buy one and get a secondary built motor for $1200 vs a $1400 topend kit. Then, if you don't use your original motor, sell it for $600 and you have a built motor for $600. Just some ideas.