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View Full Version : Chain: Whats the best and why



SandNut777
01-23-2007, 07:09 PM
Hey Guys, Whats Up

OK spill it. What is the best kinda of chain to use and why?
I have heard different thing some chains where out faster than other, some where out the teeth on your sprocket faster than others whats the deal?


2001 400EX soon to be 440EX
Wiseco 11:1 piston
AC Black Line Pro Peg Nerfs
ASV Pro Pack Levers (Billet Red)
ITP Pro 9 Wheels All Around
ITP Holeshot HD Tires Front
Aluminium Air Box (Insane Performance)
DG Front Bumper
K&N Air Filter And Outerwares
ITP Sandstar and Douglas Blue Labels (for the sand)
Pro Circuit T-4 (In Garage) to loud for the city.
Renthal Handlebars W/Tag Grips
Bill's Headpipe On Order

I appreciate the input Thanks
SandNut777

northwest Texas
01-23-2007, 07:30 PM
I don't know. I just replaced my stock chain on my EX and went with a Krause/Sidewinder. I paid out the ying yang but one I bought years ago, I still have on my Tri-Z. I've been pleased.

Most I've seen have strength ratings around 8-9k and mine is supposed to be over 14k. I do know it has larger pins than the stocker.

You should replace the set all at once otherwise you're going to ruin a new chain with worn sprockets and vice versa. I can tell you that.

There's others smarter than I in this spectrum so I'll let them speak.

Glenyzracer25
01-23-2007, 09:26 PM
an o-ring,x-ring last much longer than stock chains. i have a renthal gold o-ring chain and havent adjusted it in a year on a high horsepower raptor. just replace the chain and sprockets at the same time..remember you get what you pay for.

86 Quad R
01-24-2007, 07:25 AM
get a non-oring renthal chain and sprockets.

GPracer2500
01-24-2007, 09:18 AM
Any brand name o or x ring chain should be fine. IMO the DID ERV3 is the best chain money can buy, but it's overkill on an EX.

Maintainence is the biggest factor is chain longevity!

86 Quad R
01-24-2007, 09:20 AM
Originally posted by GPracer2500
Maintainence is the biggest factor is chain longevity!

what he said......... :)

400exrider707
01-24-2007, 09:27 AM
Originally posted by Glenyzracer25
an o-ring,x-ring last much longer than stock chains. i have a renthal gold o-ring chain and havent adjusted it in a year on a high horsepower raptor. just replace the chain and sprockets at the same time..remember you get what you pay for.

stock on a 400ex is oring

400exrider707
01-24-2007, 09:28 AM
Originally posted by 86 Quad R
get a non-oring renthal chain and sprockets.


Maybe on a 2 stroke with no torque would you use a non o-ring, but for todays four strokes o rings and x rings are the way to go

rooster300ex
01-24-2007, 09:30 AM
primary drive chains haven't failed me once, and its the cheapest. If I was to buy a more expensive and more then likely stronger & reliable chain I would go with a D.I.D chain.

Glenyzracer25
01-24-2007, 09:36 AM
sorry..a good aftermarket o-ring or x-ring chain will last much longer than a stock O-RING chain. D.I.D and Renthal are the best chain for the money.

86 Quad R
01-24-2007, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by 400exrider707
Maybe on a 2 stroke with no torque would you use a non o-ring, but for todays four strokes o rings and x rings are the way to go

in case ya didnt get the memo........ a chain having a o ring or x ring doesnt have a thing to do with whether or not its strong.

as for your comments on 2 stroke versus 4 stroke we can keep those to our selves. last i looked the feller asked our opinions on chains. the subject didnt mention otherwise. :huh

Xater
01-24-2007, 02:05 PM
i use D.I.D x-ring chain and i love it

Harbin_22
01-24-2007, 03:11 PM
I have had several different kinds and brands and DID is porbably the best i have used.

I had a regina gold X-ring for about 2 months and broke it, Regina o-rings stretch alot if you make much power.

I had a DID gold X-ring that was very nice. It hardly ever needed tightening. They are easy to maintain too.

Right now I have a DID ERT2 non-oring chain. This is a very nice chain. They have a lot less drag from being non-o-ring. They are more maintence though. You have to clean them very well, and use good lubricant on them. It doesn't stretch bad at all and has like 8100lbs tensile strength so it is just as strong as the rest of them.

Antifaith
01-24-2007, 03:24 PM
Originally posted by northwest Texas

You should replace the set all at once otherwise you're going to ruin a new chain with worn sprockets and vice versa. I can tell you that. [/B]

General rule is that you can replace the chain 3 times before replacing the sprocket. Obviously if the sprocket looks damaged, go ahead and change it.

exrider008
01-24-2007, 03:25 PM
Originally posted by rooster300ex
primary drive chains haven't failed me once, and its the cheapest. If I was to buy a more expensive and more then likely stronger & reliable chain I would go with a D.I.D chain.

same with me best chain and sprokets i have ever used and they r the cheepest. i had a DID ERT2 with renthal sprokets and they didnt last as long as my primary drive.

mad440
01-24-2007, 05:08 PM
Gonna have to rep my sidewinder ti-moly sprocket and chian. it's on my race/play 440 and ive only adjusted the chain once and that was when i was putting it on. the sprockets dont even look like they have been riden on and its all been on there for a year maybe year and a half. Your going to pay for the setup, but i have yet to be disappointed in it.

Wildbrain
01-25-2007, 01:55 AM
Don't waste your $$$$$ on SIDEWINDER chains.
Biggest overpriced POS on the market.

bwamos
01-25-2007, 07:31 AM
Best bang for the buck, IMHO, are the Primary Drive chains.

For the price you can change them out twice as often, and still save money. ;)

I run non o-ring as well.

Think about it. What is 90% of the wear on you chain? It is chain stretch. It is not pin wear. If you keep your chain cleaned and lubed it will last as long as any o-ring/xring chain.

Besides if you hit you're o-ring/x-ring chain with a powerwasher ever, you just trapped water in behind the o-ring.

GPracer2500
01-25-2007, 09:43 AM
My understanding is that chains don't actually "stretch" as they wear. The pins and the holes in the plates for the pins wear. As the pins' diameter gets smaller and the plate holes diameter gets larger, the chain gets longer--appearing to "stretch". If each pin looses 0.1mm of material off its diameter, and each inner plate set gains 0.1mm in pin hole size, then a 100 link chain would "stretch" 20mm (or over 3/4"). The exterior dimensions of each individual plate hasen't changed from new--it's the interface between plate and pin that changes with use.

That's why ringed chains typically last so much longer with far less maintainence--the interface between the pins and the plates is protected by the o rings. The factory installed lubrication is kept in place and no grit can get in there to cause wear.


I agree that PD stuff is the best bang for the buck. I've had a PD o-ring on my CR250 for a bit now and haven't had any reason not to like it. My XR650R gets the best--DID ERV3. My 250r is getting a PD non o-ring. It's yearly hours of use is low, it never gets wet other than washing, and absolute minimal drag is important to me (for the 250r). If the 250r was intended for general (and more frequent) use than I'd use an o-ring chain on it.

mad440
01-25-2007, 10:51 AM
Originally posted by Wildbrain
Don't waste your $$$$$ on SIDEWINDER chains.
Biggest overpriced POS on the market.

They may come at a steeper price tag, and if you have the money it is well worth the money, the quality is second to none. I will buy another set in a heartbeat when and if mine wear out. As for the POS comment, next time you have a thought, just let it go!

Scro
01-25-2007, 10:52 AM
Everytime I go riding I see people oiling their chains before they ride. To me, this doesn't make much sense. Wouldn't the oil attract any dirt, causing premature wear?

I've always oiled my chains after I wash to keep them from rusting, but never right before I ride.

bwamos
01-25-2007, 10:55 AM
My understanding is that chains don't actually "stretch" as they wear. The pins and the holes in the plates for the pins wear.

On bicycles, yes. On higher torque ATV's, the plates will elongate some when under the heaviest loads. (whoops, ruted out rock sections, etc.)

When a chain is wearing, it will ride up on the sprockets, sometimes enough to show daylight underneath. If it is jsut worn pins, then there would be "slop", so the chain would still seat down on the sprocket. They dont.

Also almost every failure I've seen involved a busted plate. Usually an outer plate, at the pin's riveted location. (no pin wear there, it's fixed at that point.)

I also dont' like o-rings because you can not lubricate the pins. If you have an o-ring gasketed seal, how do you get chain lube into the pin area?

If you don't maintain well.. an o-ring is the best option.. but if you do regular maintenance, I still stand by the non o-ring.

However, if you're a mud bogger.. then you would definatly need o-ring. Mud is like liquid sandpaper.. lol.

400exrider707
01-25-2007, 11:32 AM
On todays high horsepower four strokes I believe an o ring chain is necessary. They have a much higher tensile strength than a non o ring

86 Quad R
01-25-2007, 11:39 AM
:confused:

lzyga05
01-25-2007, 12:00 PM
i got a oring on my cr and i haven ajustd it yet great chain and i payed like 29$ + shiping and its take like .1hp away but worth the long life

bwamos
01-25-2007, 01:09 PM
Originally posted by 400exrider707
On todays high horsepower four strokes I believe an o ring chain is necessary. They have a much higher tensile strength than a non o ring

The Primary Drive's $31 Racing Chain (non o-ring) has an average tensile strength of 8,510 lbs

D.I.D.'s $85 X-ring chain has an average tensile strength of 8,120 lbs. o-ring chain wasn't listed.

Regina's $62 O-Ring chain has an average tensile strength of 7,644 lbs.

RK's $50 X-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 7,400 lbs.

RK's top of the line $74 Gold X-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 8,500 lbs. Close, but still less.

Renthals top of the line $99 R32 Works O-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 7,644 lbs.

Sidewinder... we'll they won't publish their tensile strength. :P

SandNut777
01-25-2007, 11:04 PM
Thanks guys now im so damn confused i think ill just sell the quad and get a Bike. NOT! All take it all under advisment. And thanks again.

2001 400EX soon to be 440EX
Wiseco 11:1 piston
AC Black Line Pro Peg Nerfs
ASV Pro Pack Levers (Billet Red)
ITP Pro 9 Wheels All Around
ITP Holeshot HD Tires Front
Aluminium Air Box (Insane Performance)
DG Front Bumper
K&N Air Filter And Outerwares
ITP Sandstar and Douglas Blue Labels (for the sand)
Pro Circuit T-4 (In Garage) to loud for the city.
Renthal Handlebars W/Tag Grips
Bill's Headpipe On Order

mad440
01-26-2007, 11:20 AM
Originally posted by bwamos
The Primary Drive's $31 Racing Chain (non o-ring) has an average tensile strength of 8,510 lbs

D.I.D.'s $85 X-ring chain has an average tensile strength of 8,120 lbs. o-ring chain wasn't listed.

Regina's $62 O-Ring chain has an average tensile strength of 7,644 lbs.

RK's $50 X-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 7,400 lbs.

RK's top of the line $74 Gold X-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 8,500 lbs. Close, but still less.

Renthals top of the line $99 R32 Works O-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 7,644 lbs.

Sidewinder... we'll they won't publish their tensile strength. :P

If you go to their website they list the tensile strengths

Sidewinder ATV "SX series" is 8,000lbs lowest grade they make

Sidewinder ATV "Gold series" is 12,000lbs their middle of the road

Sidewinder ATV "Ti-series" is 14,000lbs their top of the line

400exrider707
01-26-2007, 11:24 AM
Originally posted by bwamos
The Primary Drive's $31 Racing Chain (non o-ring) has an average tensile strength of 8,510 lbs

D.I.D.'s $85 X-ring chain has an average tensile strength of 8,120 lbs. o-ring chain wasn't listed.

Regina's $62 O-Ring chain has an average tensile strength of 7,644 lbs.

RK's $50 X-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 7,400 lbs.

RK's top of the line $74 Gold X-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 8,500 lbs. Close, but still less.

Renthals top of the line $99 R32 Works O-Ring Chain has an average tensile strength of 7,644 lbs.

Sidewinder... we'll they won't publish their tensile strength. :P


I too have been using the PD chain and sprocket kits. Originally I ordered them up planning on them getting trashed very quickly, but I wanted something for lake running. I was just going to repalce them with a "name brand" package towards the race season. HA they went all winter and lasted the entire race season on my 400ex. I then ordered them for my 450R planning the same thing and figuring the more power now I will destroy them in no time! HA AGAIN!! All season now getting ready for ice racing and they look pretty darn good still! I will probaby get another set for this upcoming season, but for $55 I cant believe how well they have held up.

wilkin250r
01-26-2007, 11:47 AM
Regardless of what brand you get, adjusting your chain is very important.

Some people have made the mistake of throwing a brand-new chain on and racing right away, and the chain is ruined within an minutes, and often takes a peice of the case along with it.

When you change your chain and tighten it, you're going to need to adjust it again in about two minutes of riding (riding SLOWLY). You are going to need to adjust it five or six more times over the next hour as you take the "stretch" out of the chain.

ZSNOW
01-26-2007, 12:00 PM
man i wish some one had said that before i "took a peice of my case" with the chain on my lt250r....lucky my left over parts encluded a case...brand new chain polished case down the tiolet so remember this(don't be dumb like )
:D

red2004 TRX450R
01-26-2007, 12:28 PM
Originally posted by Glenyzracer25
sorry..a good aftermarket o-ring or x-ring chain will last much longer than a stock O-RING chain. D.I.D and Renthal are the best chain for the money.

do you know that the stock Honda chains are D.I.D. O-Ring

and the stock Honda rims are D.I.D. and are among the best non bead lock rims you can buy!!!

Honda don't put junk on there quads!!!

There are tons of people that put after market parts on there quads thinking it's better than stock and lots of times there not!!!


I run stock sprockets and D.I.D. O or X ring chains and have never had problems.
and you should change the chain and sprockets at the same time!!! even of the sprockets look OK.

ZSNOW
01-26-2007, 02:11 PM
is it ok to change to a 13 tooth front sproket with out changing ur chain?

GPracer2500
01-26-2007, 03:14 PM
I swap fronts around sometimes. I think the key with mixing and matching chains and sprockets is to keep all the items as "worn-together" as possible. On one ride of mine I've used a 13, 14, and 15 all on the same chain and rear sprocket. It's not good for the longevity of the parts, but it's not too bad as long as they are all similarly worn. I bought all the parts together so they're all the same age.

It's a compromise.

To get different gearing AND the best wear possible you'd need all your gearing combos as a set--1 front/1 rear/1 chain. That's not especially practical if you want to change gearing around. So you sacrifice some service life for practicality. I do anyway.

300exryder
01-26-2007, 04:06 PM
Another thumbs up for Primary Drive. For the price and quality, any PD component will suit the recreational riders' needs. I've been using them for years with no problems...

bwamos
01-30-2007, 07:19 AM
Originally posted by mad440
If you go to their website they list the tensile strengths

Sidewinder ATV "SX series" is 8,000lbs lowest grade they make

Sidewinder ATV "Gold series" is 12,000lbs their middle of the road

Sidewinder ATV "Ti-series" is 14,000lbs their top of the line

Ahh.. well you were luckier at finding tech specs than I was. I was only able to find approaching this, or approaching that. I was unable to find anything showing actual tested tensile strengths. Only vague statments.

mad440
01-30-2007, 11:33 AM
lol and thats like saying what, i have a dollar amount aproaching 100 when really i could have 92, 95, 99 darn so i dont have a spot on 100. not every chain in the same line is going to have the exact same, spot on tensile strength no matter what brand it is, properties of metal. the other brands could be given ya one chain that maxed out at that strength and all the other chains in that line are actually lower. sidewinder doesnt give you a max but they tell you that their chains approach 14,000 because not every chain is the same.

bwamos
01-30-2007, 01:15 PM
Originally posted by mad440
lol and thats like saying what, i have a dollar amount aproaching 100 when really i could have 92, 95, 99 darn so i dont have a spot on 100. not every chain in the same line is going to have the exact same, spot on tensile strength no matter what brand it is, properties of metal. the other brands could be given ya one chain that maxed out at that strength and all the other chains in that line are actually lower. sidewinder doesnt give you a max but they tell you that their chains approach 14,000 because not every chain is the same.

or it could be 4000. Approaching 14,000 means it could be up to almost 14000 on the best possible result.

MINIMUM tensile strength guarantees at least 8250 lbs of tensile strength.

Approaching tensile strength could mean they tested 100 of them and one of them "almost" made it to 14,000 lbs. The other 99 could have failed at 5000 for all we know. No guaranteed minimum tensile strength.

Now, don't get me wrong, I'm NOT saying they arent good chains. I just have no data to make a judgment outside of spending $300 and finding out the hard way.

mad440
01-30-2007, 02:06 PM
I posted earlier about their ti setup on my 440 race bike, it has been on there for a year and a half and have yet to adjust, where my D.I.D i was adjusting every 3 or 4 rides with my stock motor, thats like 100% ride test data for ya. They gotta be doin somethin right. my sprockets have almost no wear marks either. The original post was "What is the best kinda of chain to use and why?" So I put my .02 in about my sidewinder never having to be adjusted since i bought it and how the sprockets have little to no marks on them. Didnt want to spark nothin just people get the wrong idea about them because they are so expensive.

Wildbrain
01-31-2007, 01:37 AM
I bought into all the hype about the Ti-Series 14,000lb from Sidewinder, paid way to much $$$$ for it.

Well, I must say that it is the ONLY chain that has ever actually broken on me and left me stranded out on the trail. It didn't break at the master link where I thought it would,but right in the middle.

I then contacted Sidewinder and asked them what the heck is that all about ?

They compleatly blew me off and never responded to my concerns about the quality of there product.

I really expected some answer from them like I must have put it on wrong or something like that, but nothing, just got the blowoff.

I would never purchase there product again because they won't stand behind it.

Like I stated before, "Biggest overpriced POS on the market".

CannondaleRider
01-31-2007, 05:27 PM
Regina chains are the greatest in my opinion.

I've got over a year of hard racing on my current Regina 520 Quad-X ring chain, and it has "streched" very little, and is in perfect working condition.....and it still looks great, if that matters to you.

I'll trust this chain for at least 3 more WORCS Rounds, and the practice in between.....I trust Regina....I don't trust any others.

MathR601
02-01-2007, 05:41 PM
Don't bother with tensile strength. The key is the maintenance. Clean and lube it regularly. Supersport bikes put 520 chain on it and they got 180hp with over 80lbs of torque.

tater_kamik
02-01-2007, 06:24 PM
i will admit that i do not think the sidewinder chain is worth it, i broke one as well and sidewinder basically said "buy another one" i did lol and this one hasnt broken yet. the sprockets havent shown any wear though.

Byte
02-03-2007, 02:29 PM
Originally posted by Harbin_22

Right now I have a DID ERT2 non-oring chain. This is a very nice chain. They have a lot less drag from being non-o-ring. They are more maintence though. You have to clean them very well, and use good lubricant on them. It doesn't stretch bad at all and has like 8100lbs tensile strength so it is just as strong as the rest of them.

I just bought that chain and have been sweating using it because its not a "atv' chain. Do you think I'll be ok to use this on my +1 1/4" inch. Stock for my Z400 is 96 links and I have a 120 link ERT2 how many do you think I'll end up using? 100? I know I can measure it our but I'm wondering if you guys knew the right number.

Thanks.

JW450R1
02-03-2007, 06:30 PM
my local race shop tells me that non o-ring chains r a lot better.they spin a lot better than o-rings chains.is this true?????

Byte
02-04-2007, 07:51 AM
Originally posted by JW450R1
my local race shop tells me that non o-ring chains r a lot better.they spin a lot better than o-rings chains.is this true?????

I was told non o ring chains have less drag.

JW450R1
02-04-2007, 09:54 AM
yes,but how much maintenance is there to a non-o-ring chain

bwamos
02-06-2007, 07:07 AM
Originally posted by JW450R1
yes,but how much maintenance is there to a non-o-ring chain

Exactly the same amount as an o-ring chain. Clean & re-lubricate after every ride. ;)

86 Quad R
02-06-2007, 07:11 AM
what he said......

JW450R1
02-06-2007, 07:38 AM
Yes,but i was told every 30 minutes or so u need to clean and lub.
How try is this