Heating swingarm bolt

[SaboTron]

I am struggling trying to get the swingarm bolt out of a 400ex. According to the "How To" article the sticking point is the bushing and not where it passes through the frame. Is it best to try heating up the bushing and pounding out the bolt?

[northwest Texas]

A couple things that will cost you money to save you money.

1. Proper sized roll pin punch (if you don't know what it is, it will have a rounded part on the end that will fit in the hole in the end of the bolt)
2. Nut with same pitch threads as stock swingarm bolt.
3. Two hammers, one preferably a 3# sledge that you can square up on the nut and hit with the other.

Heat the bushings up (remove the rubber tabs in the swingarm behind the bolt approx 2" square) and with the replacement nut on the bolt (flush or just past the end of the bolt so you won't brad the end hitting it) take the hammer and mount it flush with the nut and try to drive it out. Once it starts moving, drive it back and forth until the nut hits the frame.

By this time maybe it has broken free enough that you can drive it most of the way with the roll pin punch

It may take several cycles of heating it and it will have to be hot and try not to get the heat directly on the cases.

Use anti-seize when reinstalling it and if you ride in water frequently, a simple removal and relubrication once a year should suffice.

[groutman]

Originally posted by northwest Texas
A couple things that will cost you money to save you money.

1. Proper sized roll pin punch (if you don't know what it is, it will have a rounded part on the end that will fit in the hole in the end of the bolt)
2. Nut with same pitch threads as stock swingarm bolt.
3. Two hammers, one preferably a 3# sledge that you can square up on the nut and hit with the other.

Heat the bushings up (remove the rubber tabs in the swingarm behind the bolt approx 2" square) and with the replacement nut on the bolt (flush or just past the end of the bolt so you won't brad the end hitting it) take the hammer and mount it flush with the nut and try to drive it out. Once it starts moving, drive it back and forth until the nut hits the frame.

By this time maybe it has broken free enough that you can drive it most of the way with the roll pin punch

It may take several cycles of heating it and it will have to be hot and try not to get the heat directly on the cases.

Use anti-seize when reinstalling it and if you ride in water frequently, a simple removal and relubrication once a year should suffice. that is pretty good advise i just removed mine it took quit a while i kept spraying it with liquid wrench beating it back and forth i was about ready to break out the fire wrench but it started moving a little bit further each time best thing to do is when you get mad spray it and do something else for a while

[Honda#4]

carefull that you don't break the bushing inside the motor cus it ain't replacable.

[Toadz400]

Texas, that's some pretty good advice right there.

Like someone else mentioned it's a very good idea to take the bolt out every once in awhile and clean and relubricate it. If that sounds like too much work, a stainless steel bolt is a good replacement.

[SaboTron]

Thanks for the advice.

I have been spraying and rotating the bolt for a week. Unfortunetly the bolt is broken so it is making it more challenging. I noticed the bushing is turning with the bolt so I will heat it this weekend.

Good to know the bushing is the sticking point and not the frame.

Thanks