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View Full Version : LSR a-arms replacement parts



pimpt250r
12-30-2006, 09:34 PM
Ive heard many different things about what will work Volkswagon ball joints,Ford courier tierods ,,
what work for the lower bushings,,,and what is the deal with the ball joints
thanks in advance

loboboy
12-30-2006, 09:45 PM
I would highly recommend you just buy the parts from Lonestar. In the past using the tie rod end from a car I had lots of trouble, now Lonestar actually has specific ball joints made for their a-arms and they work very well. So don't do what you may think is cheap and end up regreting it later, just buy the good stuff.

oldskoolex400
12-30-2006, 09:58 PM
yea, do it right or dont do it at all

pimpt250r
12-30-2006, 10:49 PM
not for nothin, but the ball joints at lsr ,, they make you buy 4 for 125.40 but all i need is the boot ,and they have those for 28,
for the set of 4 again i only need the 1 ,
Ive heard from many people that there are parts from cars that work and wanted some feedback on it,
I KNOW THAT THE BEST REPLACEMENT IS GOING W/LSR
but i have 2 kids and this is the internet ,
where anything is possible and
just looking to see if what im hearing has panned out for anyone
there size is 16mm by 1.5
i dont need 2 people to say the samething its pointless and gets my post no where

oldskoolex400
12-30-2006, 10:54 PM
hey bro chill, im trying to keep you safe out there, if you want something to break while going over a 50 ft double thats your choice, just trying to help you excuse me pissing you off :mad:

pimpt250r
12-30-2006, 11:00 PM
not pissed at all
but im looking for the people who know first hand
2 kids means no fifty foot doubles,35ft yes

oldskoolex400
12-30-2006, 11:12 PM
you are right with what it is, however i have no part numbers, it has been a few years since ive owned a trx250r

86 Quad R
12-30-2006, 11:51 PM
i personally have used the Ford courier/mazda truck tie rod ends for about 4 years now with no trouble at all. i ride in harsh conditions ranging from all summer on the creeks to abusive log hopping in the winter. if they can handle repeated leaping over logs ranging from 4 to 16" in diameter then they should be ok for the average rider.

as with anything, maintenance is important.

pimpt250r
12-31-2006, 08:51 AM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 86 Quad R
[B]i personally have used the Ford courier/mazda truck tie rod ends for about 4 years now with no trouble at all.
E] do you have a part # or yrs of the vehicles that would work
and do they have a grease zerk
thanks

Rich250RRacer
12-31-2006, 04:10 PM
I've worked at an auto parts store for fifteen years and searched the Moog book dimensions for the right ball joint. The correct ball joint for LSR arms is a tie rod end from an 89-98 Geo tracker, the Moog number is ES3045RL. This is closer than the Ford part. There's one guy on here who will deny it until the end, but the original ball joints that came with my arms when I bought them new had the same casting number as the Moog pieces. You can also get an off-brand, just have the auto parts store cross the number. I've used Federated parts for quite awhile and they're about half the price of a Moog.

pimpt250r
12-31-2006, 04:53 PM
well I took the upper and lowers apart
im taking them to work to blast and powder'em
but the upper has a sleeve and the lower does not how do i get that sleeve because it has a nut attached to it and would like to replace all the hardware
LSR's website does not show this piece

peeping TOM
01-01-2007, 02:35 AM
yer i;m in the uk ,and i know for a fact they sell u auto ball joints but with there added ££$$$$ ,,,,,,,its hard to believe a manufacture;s would make a specific ball joint for lsr etc ,,,there a business and they want mass production .

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 08:10 AM
but what about the upper nut/sleeve that goes on the inner part of the a-arm over the end of the balljoint

Rich250RRacer
01-01-2007, 09:36 AM
Originally posted by pimpt250r
but what about the upper nut/sleeve that goes on the inner part of the a-arm over the end of the balljoint

I've never seen this, could you post a pic.

Rich250RRacer
01-01-2007, 09:36 AM
Originally posted by pimpt250r
but what about the upper nut/sleeve that goes on the inner part of the a-arm over the end of the balljoint

I've never seen this, could you post a pic.

Rich250RRacer
01-01-2007, 09:37 AM
Originally posted by pimpt250r
but what about the upper nut/sleeve that goes on the inner part of the a-arm over the end of the balljoint

Do you mean the locknut?

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 10:26 AM
could be
i just took a pic ,and trying to load it
hopefully it works lol

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 10:46 AM
ttt

Dave83
01-01-2007, 01:07 PM
About 2 years ago I had an emergency need for a replacement ball joint.I called LSR and The guy told me that that used to use Moog #2074R for their joints.Tie rod ends for Ford Courier and Mazda pickups.I have used this number since to replace all my ball joints with no problems.The newer style they have are said to allow for more movement,but I havent ever had any probs with the others.

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 01:08 PM
oops

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 01:15 PM
oops

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 02:13 PM
ttt

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 02:16 PM
whoo hooo it fucn worked

Dave83
01-01-2007, 02:35 PM
That sleeve came w/ the arms.I have 2 sets of LSR arms,one uses that sleeve and one doesnt.Im not sure which set is newer.Id give LSR a call and see if they had some.They are usually pretty helpful.

Rich250RRacer
01-01-2007, 03:53 PM
Neither of my sets have that. Never seen one like it before, might be older design. I really think the Geo parts work better than the Ford, but maybe you can compare the two and see what will work better for you.

Dave83
01-01-2007, 07:14 PM
Rich,Ill give the Geo parts a try the next time I change out joints.I just was using what LSR said they had been using.The set of arms I have without the sleeved nut were new in 01,the others with it are a couple years older.

pimpt250r
01-01-2007, 08:32 PM
thanks for all the info guys,, i did a autozone/advanceauto/pepboys check and the tierod is actually more than what it would be to buy all 4 lonestar
30 and change frm those places (i just dont have to buy all 4)
and LSR want 125 for the set of 4
but i am gonna give them a call to see if they can help me
i just wanna run new hardware after i coat'em

Rich250RRacer
01-01-2007, 09:04 PM
Originally posted by pimpt250r
thanks for all the info guys,, i did a autozone/advanceauto/pepboys check and the tierod is actually more than what it would be to buy all 4 lonestar
30 and change frm those places (i just dont have to buy all 4)
and LSR want 125 for the set of 4
but i am gonna give them a call to see if they can help me
i just wanna run new hardware after i coat'em

That's quite a bit. We sell the off-brand for $14 each, Moog are more.

Dave83
01-02-2007, 05:55 PM
I get the Moog for 19.00 at the most expensive parts store on earth-my neighborhood NAPA

Rich250RRacer
01-02-2007, 09:19 PM
Originally posted by Dave83
I get the Moog for 19.00 at the most expensive parts store on earth-my neighborhood NAPA

That's a pretty good price on Moog.

pimpt250r
01-05-2007, 05:49 PM
hey guys just wanted to say thanks for the heads up and the part## it turns out in my case that the ford /mazda bushing was the way to go,,
its about a half inch longer than the Geo,
and the geo has no grease fitting
the mazda does
so thanks for the info

Oh that Nut /Bushing I was asking about,, turns out they would have to make it ,and want 25 a peice or i can buy new uppers for 160,hmm looks like someone at lsr's gonna be on a mill

pimpt250r
01-05-2007, 05:55 PM
tt

Rich250RRacer
01-05-2007, 08:59 PM
Originally posted by pimpt250r
hey guys just wanted to say thanks for the heads up and the part## it turns out in my case that the ford /mazda bushing was the way to go,,
its about a half inch longer than the Geo,
and the geo has no grease fitting
the mazda does
so thanks for the info

Oh that Nut /Bushing I was asking about,, turns out they would have to make it ,and want 25 a peice or i can buy new uppers for 160,hmm looks like someone at lsr's gonna be on a mill

You have to watch that longer length. You want to run the ball joints in as far as possible to prevent bending them, and with the longer joints, the threaded end of the upper one will come really close to, or hit the shock spring.

pimpt250r
01-06-2007, 09:51 AM
I probably should have said that the peices Im replacing,
Are an exact match to the ford/mazda right down to the casting #,
+the geo has no grease zerk
ford/mazda does
when i say longer , its by like a quarter to a half inch

Rich250RRacer
01-06-2007, 05:37 PM
Originally posted by pimpt250r
I probably should have said that the peices Im replacing,
Are an exact match to the ford/mazda right down to the casting #,
+the geo has no grease zerk
ford/mazda does
when i say longer , its by like a quarter to a half inch

If you're running longer arms, there will not be a problem. My quads are set up for XC with stock width arms, if I run the ball joints in too far they hit the springs. Just my ball joint mount will sometimes tear my shock covers, they're that close.

pimpt250r
01-06-2007, 08:53 PM
the lsr's that i have are +2+1 and since gettin them put back together I can see what you mean, as far as the Geo bushing workin
Either balljoint would work
I say Geo on top and mazda/ford on the bottom

bardeenm1
01-10-2007, 08:16 AM
The arms look great. I'll be giving you a call about some coating!