top-end question????

[dkeen73]

I found out the base gasket is leaking, it still runs, but I was wondering if I could just go with new rings and new gaskets and be safe? Any help would be appriciated...Thanks

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Are the rings bad ??? why replace them.

If its blown a base gasket it could be several problems.

Base nuts lighty loose allowing the cylinder to move around

Cylinder base not flat, needs surfacing

Gasket bad, meaning you can sometimes buy a bad gasket.

When you get ready to put it back together, do what is called staking, small little dings on the cases where the gasket contacts. Right in the center of the gasket surface on each side where the transfer port are at.
Use a small pointed center punch & small hammer & lighty tap the punch to put the dings in.
No more blown gaslets.
Neil

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by C-LEIGH RACING
When you get ready to put it back together, do what is called staking, small little dings on the cases where the gasket contacts. Right in the center of the gasket surface on each side where the transfer port are at.
Use a small pointed center punch & small hammer & lighty tap the punch to put the dings in.
No more blown gaslets.
Neil


Neil, I am EXTREMELY interested in this procedure. Can you provide pictures?

How/why does this prevent blown gaskets?

[dkeen73]

I just thought I would do the rings why I was in there, but if its not needed I won't....I didn't think it needed them, but I wanted advice what to do...Thanks for the help-Neil....also how many dings on each side are you talking about?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

I guess it would be easier to explain by like useing a spacer plate.

Ok, say you have a new spacer plate, no gaskets stuck to it, clean.
Get a small center punch one with a pointed end, lay the plate on a table with some cardboard under the plate to act as a cushion. Now take that punch & small hammer & in the area on the plate where the transfers are located on each side, take the punch & hammer & tap a ding right in the middle of the plate.
You just follow the plate tapping the dings in from one stud hole to the next where the gasket will touch right in the middle.
What your doing, when you lightly tap that punch, the punch end will pooch up the metal.
It will make a small hole but it will also make the metal stick up around the hole.
How deep the hole is depends on how hard you tap the punch & you dont want to hit it hard, your only trying to scar the aluminum.

Now with the little pooched up places on the plate, what happens when the gaskets are in place & you torque the cylinder down, those little pooched up places stick into the gasket & hold it in place.

Most time the base gasket well get sucked into the crankcase & sometimes blown out but very seldom. For this reason that is why I put the dings right in the middle of the plate.
DONT do this on the bottom of the cylinder because when the cylinder is being bored, that where the cylinder will be mounted on the boring bar & has got to be flat.

This is only a get by repair & not correcting the problem, although you can run the engine like this & not blow anymore gaskets.
Neil

[dkeen73]

Hey Neil, I have a 86 motor, so I would just do this processon top of the cases where the cylinder mounts right? Also would I need to put any kind of lyquid gasket or anything like that on there too...Thanks for your help

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Yeah, just do it to the top of the cases, never the cylinder base.
If you want to use some sealant as extra protection, I recomend the Three Bond brand #1211, runs about 25.00 a tube though.
Best I have found, you could use it on a warped head & it would seal up.
If you use the 1211, let the engine sit a day or so for the sealant to cure out before adding any coolant or oils or running it.
Neil

[Rich250RRacer]

This is the same procedure that some do on Chevy V8 (and various other motors) intakes when running silicone instead of the failure prone rubber end gaskets. This gives the silicone something to "bite on" rather than a flat surface.