View Full Version : out with headlights in with a airfilter
400exrider989
12-02-2006, 08:22 PM
has anybody tried taking out the headlights and making it into a ram air kinda like scoop or poping in an airfilter and running custom tubes to the carb?
post pics if you have it done!
thanks
Kaleigh
12-02-2006, 11:34 PM
i think it would be hard to run a pipe to the front.. your better off takin the snorkel out and putting a pipe in front there and runnin it out the side by your leg... i took my snorkel off and cut the boot.. it acts like ram air a little bit.. i can tell when i start moving faster.. its pretty cool..
redzoomer
12-03-2006, 06:52 AM
I just cut out the whole headlight assembly and frontend and put on a Maier hood with a scoop, this helps the oil cooler stay cool.
02400exer
12-03-2006, 09:40 PM
i just cut the front and stuck a raptor hood in it works great for cooling
Kaleigh
12-03-2006, 10:57 PM
guys.. he's talking about RAM AIR.. not cooling the engine..
wilkin250r
12-04-2006, 01:02 AM
Several problems.
First of all, you have to be going fairly fast for ram air to be effective.
Second, if you DO succeed in pressurizing the intake using ramair, it's going to cause carburetor problems. The reason fuel flows up from the bowl into your intake path is the pressure difference, the bowl is at a higher pressure than your intake. If you succeed in increasing the pressure in your intake, you'll reverse this condition, or at least diminish it. More air means you'll need MORE fuel, but you'll end up getting LESS fuel because you have less pressure difference. Not a good scenario.
Kaleigh
12-04-2006, 01:17 AM
All i did was take my snorkel out and cut the boot.. it seems to make more power the faster I go.. I have tried with just the lid off and it was better with the lid on and the snorkel off.. I have a 165 main and it works great for me.. i think it gives it just enough air without really forcing hard air into it..
Like wilkin said.. if you force to much air into it.. then you air/fuel mixture will be off.. which will cause more air then fuel which inturn will make you run lean.. and lean a machine is a mean machine... and I say mean as in its gona be mad at you... lol..
ZSNOW
12-04-2006, 05:45 AM
unlike muscle cars your don't need ram air on a atv the reason muscle cars had them was because the engines were so big them couldn't get enough air with a normal set up or keep them kool enough and they were trying to squeez as much power as they could with out making HUGE engines.unless u are draging then it might be worth it.
ryanh250ex
12-05-2006, 04:04 AM
ram-air has been proven to work, on an ATV no less, although its practicality is not really worth the effort.
If you're really worried about drawing max air just scrap the airbox altogether and run the air filter off the carb
wilkin250r
12-05-2006, 05:03 AM
Originally posted by ryanh250ex
If you're really worried about drawing max air just scrap the airbox altogether and run the air filter off the carb
That's not always the best way to go. The inside lip of the air filter causes a lot of turbulence, and if it is RIGHT at the mouth of the carb, that tubulence occurs at the jet, causing poor fuel atomization and inconsistent metering.
The best solution is to give a smooth path several inches long with smooth transitions for that turbulence to work itself out. This has been dyno proven with the 250r, the intake boot is worth close to 5hp on the very upper end versus having the filter directly attached to the carb.
AFTER the carb, turbulence can sometimes be a good thing, because that tumbling air will help atomize the fuel further and distribute it better. But that's only AFTER the air has already picked up the fuel, you don't want that turbulence right at the jet.
Kaleigh
12-05-2006, 02:04 PM
how about tubro's then?? doesnt that work on the same princable as ram air??
ryanh250ex
12-05-2006, 03:45 PM
Originally posted by wilkin250r
That's not always the best way to go. The inside lip of the air filter causes a lot of turbulence, and if it is RIGHT at the mouth of the carb, that tubulence occurs at the jet, causing poor fuel atomization and inconsistent metering.
The best solution is to give a smooth path several inches long with smooth transitions for that turbulence to work itself out. This has been dyno proven with the 250r, the intake boot is worth close to 5hp on the very upper end versus having the filter directly attached to the carb.
AFTER the carb, turbulence can sometimes be a good thing, because that tumbling air will help atomize the fuel further and distribute it better. But that's only AFTER the air has already picked up the fuel, you don't want that turbulence right at the jet.
I actually agree. I am trying to put things into laymen's terms .
I run no airbox and like you mentioned i do run a small intake tube.
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