250r4life
12-01-2006, 01:17 AM
Duncan PC2000 265 Power Valve Cylinder Kit
This is one of Duncan’s top end kits. They have been making them for a while, and updated the cylinder a couple years ago, and this is one of the newer updated version cylinders. It is a Nikasil coated cylinder, and I had it re-nikasiled back in August, when I redid my both top and bottom end (have receipts). It was basically like new when I re-assembled it back in August, as it was just re-nikasiled, and I put a new 68mm wiseco “racers choice” piston in it (which is a great piston that is only made in 68 and 68.25 sizes). I had the clearances set to .0025. I also put in a brand new 21cc dome; up from the 19cc I had in there previously. With the 21cc dome you don’t have to run straight race gas, which is one reason why I did it (I run 100 octane), as well as I don’t particularly like all the stress that very high compression puts on an engine. Before I had it re-nikasiled, I had a more aggressive port and polish done to it. This cylinder cranked before, but with the more aggressive port and polish, it improved quite a bit and the sucker really screams. So, I guess considering the better port and polish, the better piston, and having it re-nikasiled and putting a new dome in it- this cylinder was actually better than new back in August. One of these kits will cost you $1800 from Duncan.
I broke it in nice and slow, completing many heat cycles before I ever hit the dunes. I did several idles sessions in my driveway, several short rides around the neighborhood, and periodically increased the time and aggressiveness of the riding to really break it in well. Both in break in and in my general riding, I always make sure my bike is good and warm before cranking on it.
The cylinder runs great! I can wheelie in 5th gear by getting it in the right RPM, punching the throttle, and leaning back. While sitting down up close to the gas tank, I can wheelie in up to 4th gear just by punching the throttle in the right spot... With the PV it has great bottom end, but still has a good power band hit. You can adjust the PV to alter your power characteristics and when/how you want the power to come on.
Just one example of how it compares with other bikes, my good buddy has a raptor 700 with a full HMF pipe, a pro design K&N with the lid off, and the EFI fuel controller. He had it dyno tuned, and supposedly it dynoed at 55 hp... Not only do I get out on him on the launch (which I realize a lot can be attributed to the rider), but I also pull away from him up the hill at the dunes- and that is racing where the whoops aren’t too bad to try and minimalize the rider affect on the races. I don’t have any problem beating 450s or Banshees, but of course there is always going to be somebody else that is faster. If you can ride there will not be many that will beat you.
Unfortunately for me, after 3 days at the dunes, I went to launch and blew 2nd gear. I have the stock top end for it, so what I would like to do is take off the cylinder as is and sell it to pay for my new tranny, and just throw the stock top end back on. Like I said, besides break-in, I had it out at the dunes for a total of 3 days so you gotta figure 9 good rides on a brand new top end.
It will come with the cylinder, head, piston, cylinder studs, etc… I will tear it down and send it out.
I would like to get $700 for it, but I can negotiate on it somewhat. I have already had several offers in the $500s for it, so please do not bother with offers less than that.
If you have any questions, feel free PM me.
Thanks.
-Mark
This is one of Duncan’s top end kits. They have been making them for a while, and updated the cylinder a couple years ago, and this is one of the newer updated version cylinders. It is a Nikasil coated cylinder, and I had it re-nikasiled back in August, when I redid my both top and bottom end (have receipts). It was basically like new when I re-assembled it back in August, as it was just re-nikasiled, and I put a new 68mm wiseco “racers choice” piston in it (which is a great piston that is only made in 68 and 68.25 sizes). I had the clearances set to .0025. I also put in a brand new 21cc dome; up from the 19cc I had in there previously. With the 21cc dome you don’t have to run straight race gas, which is one reason why I did it (I run 100 octane), as well as I don’t particularly like all the stress that very high compression puts on an engine. Before I had it re-nikasiled, I had a more aggressive port and polish done to it. This cylinder cranked before, but with the more aggressive port and polish, it improved quite a bit and the sucker really screams. So, I guess considering the better port and polish, the better piston, and having it re-nikasiled and putting a new dome in it- this cylinder was actually better than new back in August. One of these kits will cost you $1800 from Duncan.
I broke it in nice and slow, completing many heat cycles before I ever hit the dunes. I did several idles sessions in my driveway, several short rides around the neighborhood, and periodically increased the time and aggressiveness of the riding to really break it in well. Both in break in and in my general riding, I always make sure my bike is good and warm before cranking on it.
The cylinder runs great! I can wheelie in 5th gear by getting it in the right RPM, punching the throttle, and leaning back. While sitting down up close to the gas tank, I can wheelie in up to 4th gear just by punching the throttle in the right spot... With the PV it has great bottom end, but still has a good power band hit. You can adjust the PV to alter your power characteristics and when/how you want the power to come on.
Just one example of how it compares with other bikes, my good buddy has a raptor 700 with a full HMF pipe, a pro design K&N with the lid off, and the EFI fuel controller. He had it dyno tuned, and supposedly it dynoed at 55 hp... Not only do I get out on him on the launch (which I realize a lot can be attributed to the rider), but I also pull away from him up the hill at the dunes- and that is racing where the whoops aren’t too bad to try and minimalize the rider affect on the races. I don’t have any problem beating 450s or Banshees, but of course there is always going to be somebody else that is faster. If you can ride there will not be many that will beat you.
Unfortunately for me, after 3 days at the dunes, I went to launch and blew 2nd gear. I have the stock top end for it, so what I would like to do is take off the cylinder as is and sell it to pay for my new tranny, and just throw the stock top end back on. Like I said, besides break-in, I had it out at the dunes for a total of 3 days so you gotta figure 9 good rides on a brand new top end.
It will come with the cylinder, head, piston, cylinder studs, etc… I will tear it down and send it out.
I would like to get $700 for it, but I can negotiate on it somewhat. I have already had several offers in the $500s for it, so please do not bother with offers less than that.
If you have any questions, feel free PM me.
Thanks.
-Mark