Loose rear hub????

[dirttracker]

Ok, just bought a 1998 300ex last week, when i was getting my truck outta the barn this morning I noticed when I was checkin for oil leaks (changed the oil last night), that the right rear hub is loose. Can I just crank down the castle nut? Could something be damaged? axle or hub...?

I'm pretty mechanically inclinded, but not real familer with the quad yet and dont need to be having wheels falling off.

Thanks
-Moshe

[Ben]

Is the cotter pin still in the axle holding the castle nut in place? I would take off the hub (very easy) and check for damage to the axle and hub splines. If there isn't damage to the splines then get a new cotter pin and torque the castle nut to spec and put the cotter pin in. If there is significant damage to the splines you will have to replace either the hub or the axle depending on which is damaged. Good luck and let us know what happens :)

[cdalejef]

Make sure you use a new cotter pin that fits in there nice and snug!:macho

[dirttracker]

I will take it apart tomorrow morning (got races tonight, dirt circle track / stock cars).

What materials are the hub and axle? It looked to me like the axle was steel (kidna rusty in spots) and that the hub was aluminum, so would the hub would probably be the first to get damaged right? I know I should just go look at it, but College and Work get in the way of that sometimes ;) :rolleyes:


Thanks
I will let you know how I make out, I gotta put some brakes on this girl too!! Metal to Metal in the back :eek:

-moshe

[Ben]

You are right on the steel axle and aluminum hub. Usually in my experience the hub gets damaged first but that is not always the case. Get that brake pad problem taken care of soon - I had a buddy who actually wore out the entire metal shim that the pad is attached to. The disk wasn't pretty :D

[dirttracker]

Wore out that whole shim?? !?!

Well mine are actually worn down a little, the disc is still ok though, not to worn yet.. I actually need pads all the way around..

are the honda pads ok? or is there somethign else i should be looking at?

[Ben]

For normal trail riding a would go with EBC pads. They have worked great for me but then again I got two years of hard use out of my OEM Honda pads so either way you go you will be happy. If it was me I would buy EBC.

[dirttracker]

Any suggestion where to buy them at? I probably should get a service manual for this old girl too... just incase :)

[Ben]

www.rockymountainatv.com has all the brake pads one could ever need. For the Service Manual I have always bought them from my Dealer but you can get them online - I just don't know where. I recommend the official Honda service manual over the Clymer.

[dirttracker]

Well got the hub all tightended down, no real damage anywhere, the splines were a little worn, bot not enought to hurt anything.

Got some EBC pads, the mid grade ones, semi-metallics. Put pads all the way around it, I think I have a backing plate to match your friends, the back had one that was just about worn through!!! NOT GOOD! oh well seems to be fine with just new pads, rotor isnt worn down.

I should be good for a while now, got a manual and some new grips when I was at the shop, oh and a couple new plugs. The old plug was looking a little worse for the wear, not rich/lean, just plain wore out.


Have a good rest of you weekends, thanks for the help.

moshe

[Houser Cannondale]

For normal trail riding a would go with EBC pads. They have worked great for me but then again I got two years of hard use out of my OEM Honda pads so either way you go you will be happy. If it was me I would buy EBC. :eek:
how did you manage to get two years out of stock pads?? i didnt even get two months out of mine when i got it new and i dont mudbog my 300ex either.. just the usual mud puddles on the trail here and there.