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smelly$cat
11-12-2006, 10:48 PM
I recently purchased a 02 400ex.

It ran pretty good the first time I took it out for some woods riding.

The second time I took it out, we took it to the dunes and at the end of the day, it started running poorly. The symptom was mostly gutless performance when the rpm's were in the mid to high range. Since it was the end of the day, we just packed it up and took it home.

A few weeks later, I started investigating. The first thing I noticed was that the big tube from the air box to the carb had come disconnected partially from the carb side. I thought that maybe this was the cause since maybe it was getting too much air. However, after putting the tube back in place, it made no difference.

I've done quite a few things at this point to troubleshoot this problem. But, the bike is still running very bad.

This is what I have done to try to solve the problem so far.

*Cleaned the air filter
*Replaced the spark plug (NGK from dealer)
*Cleaned carb with carb cleaner (removed the carb and cleaned the float bowl, removed the main jet and cleaned it (didn't find much, just a little gunk on the tiny side holes on the jet).

Re-assembled.

The symptom is still more or less the same.

When the bike it cold, it will start right up with the choke full on. It will run for a little while this way. But, after a short while (1 minute), the bike seems to choke itself and it dies. At this point, I cannot start the bike regardless of where the choke is set.

Once the bike starts with the choke on, I've tried turning the choke off and just trying to keep it running with the throttle, but it pops and sputters quite a bit and eventually dies.

I've tried starting it, shutting off the choke and riding it immediately and the same thing happens. For short spurts, it pulls hard and rides great, then it burps pops farts and starts to stall out until it fully stalls. Again, I won't be able to start it up at this point with out wating a little while (couple minutes).

I've read some posts on here that it might be related to the gas cap, so I've tried to keep it running with the cap off and that didn't work either.

My gut tells me that it's flooding itself some how. But, I'm not sure what to do to fix this.

I'm wondering if some sand may have gotten somewhere it shouldn't have when the tube came loose from the carb at the dunes. Maybe it's causing the float to stick or something.

What do you guys think? I'm open to ideas at this point. I want to go riding again...

Thanks in advance!

-Jeff

250X_project
11-13-2006, 10:12 AM
If you think it may be flooding than you must check the level of the float when it stops the gas from flowing, It should be level.

smelly$cat
11-13-2006, 06:45 PM
I think you might be on to something.

I came out to the garage this AM and it smelled like fuel. I went over to the bike and sure enough, it was dripping fuel out of the over flow tube.

It did this once before while troubleshooting the main problem I reported here.

So, I think there still is a problem with the float. It appears to be getting stuck in the position where it would be calling for more fuel.

I've taken the float bowl off a couple times now and the float doesn't appear to be stuck, but maybe it's un-sticking itself while I'm handling the carb and taking the float bowl off...

The float moves freely and doesn't appear to have any sticking points.

Any hints on how to re-assemble the float bowl to the carb and keep the float free floating?

I'm thinking about taking the float off the carb next and attempting to clean a little deeper in that area. Maybe a spec of sand got stuck somewhere related to where the float pivots or something.

Sounds like a logical next step?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks again!

-Jeff

bwamos
11-14-2006, 07:09 AM
Snag a rebuild kit for the carb. The rubber tip on the float needle probably hardened allowing fuel to slowly leak past.

250X_project
11-14-2006, 07:22 AM
Once again I agree, carb kits are relatively cheap off eBay. completely disassemble and thoroughly clean, soak if possible. Good luck.

smelly$cat
11-14-2006, 06:28 PM
I was only able to find this one on ebay. Look good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/KL-K-L-Carb-rebuild-repair-kit-HONDA-TRX-400ex_W0QQitemZ170046509473QQihZ007QQcategoryZ8843 3QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Thanks again :)

-JA

250X_project
11-14-2006, 06:57 PM
Personally, I like it and feel it is a good buy. If it was me I would snatch it up..but that is me.

smelly$cat
11-14-2006, 07:18 PM
Ok, cool.

Do you happen to know of any step by step instructions online for installing one of these rebuild kits?

I have a clymer manual. People seem to have mixed feelings on those though..

If you know of something better, I'm game :)

I think this will be the last of my questions for now.

Thanks for your time!

-JA

250X_project
11-15-2006, 06:24 AM
I personally, love my Clymer manual. I have gotten great use out of it many times. If you look in your fuel and exhaust chapter there should be a nice lay out of your carburetor, as is in my 250X/300EX manual. Though if I find anything better I will be sure to let you know!:D

smelly$cat
11-15-2006, 06:43 AM
Cool, well that's good to hear. I'll read through those chapters and enlighten myself!

Thanks again for all your help!

-JA

250X_project
11-15-2006, 06:52 AM
no problem at all

bwamos
11-15-2006, 07:40 AM
Clymer manual is great. Honda Service manual is better.. but they are both great manuals. I use both.

250X_project
11-15-2006, 01:22 PM
If you don't mind me asking, why do you like the Honda manual better?

Kaleigh
11-15-2006, 01:44 PM
Originally posted by 250X_project
If you don't mind me asking, why do you like the Honda manual better?

better detail.. it will give you complete instructions to tear down and rebuild.. i tried the clymer but I like the honda one better..

250X_project
11-15-2006, 02:22 PM
Thanks, good to know. About how much do they run, and apparently they are worth it?