Chevy 350 questions

[TheFontMaster]

Well I know that in about 6 months when the time comes to build a new motor for my Buick that I want a 383 stroker. Well I been looking online at some stuff to build it. I will be buying a used block, thats got some mile on it or blown to start with.

What year would be the best to look for, do I want a short block? long block? what are some of the differences between these motors? I will be building it into a decently worked 383, and eventually in a couple years build a custom twin turbo set up for it, so it will have to handle gobs of power. Maybe anyone that knows some performance GM message boards? I been looking too, but if someone knows one thats good, maybe I haven't found it.

Thanks.

[milburn]

on crate motors short block means no heads and long block means with heads.

[Rico400]

Originally posted by milburn
on crate motors short block means no heads and long block means with heads.

also i think long block is the only one that comes with a warranty when you buy brand new.... But since your buying a blown one it really wont make a difference.

[TheFontMaster]

Ok then I guess that my only question really is what year should I be looking for? I know that a 4 bolt main is a must for my application. How much more would an LS motor of some kind run? I know they make more power, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra money.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Ok then I guess that my only question really is what year should I be looking for? I know that a 4 bolt main is a must for my application. How much more would an LS motor of some kind run? I know they make more power, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra money.


an ls motor is gonna run you probally twice as much as a regular iron block 350 because an ls motor is aluminum....i think....im not 100% on that but im almost 100% that it is....your best bet is to buy an old 350 out of a 96-98 chevy pickup with the vortech heads....i sold my old blown up 350 out of my truck for 200 dollars heads and everything....the only thing i took off was the intake manifold because i wanted to keep all tht for myself incase i needed it for my new motor....

[underpowered]

i would just look for an older motor, pre-87. for some reason i am not afan of building the center bolt motors (valve covers bolt through center of covers instead of the sides of them.) you can find one with some double hump heads(great older heads) for a good price. as for teh crank, have it welded. if you plan on going turbo, keep the compression low with the pistons.

[enduro400rider]

if you can find one get something like a pre 1970 350, almost no emissions on those bad boys. but those are pretty hard to come by. you ever think about building a 400? they can be torque monsters if built right.

[TheFontMaster]

Originally posted by enduro400rider
if you can find one get something like a pre 1970 350, almost no emissions on those bad boys. but those are pretty hard to come by. you ever think about building a 400? they can be torque monsters if built right.


Ive thought about 400's. From what I have heard so far the 350/383 will be a little more reliable, easier to find parts, and a little cheaper to build.

I'm still looking for a motor to start with, so if I find a 400 for a good deal, I would consider it.

[1fastR]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TheFontMaster
[B]Well I know that in about 6 months when the time comes to build a new motor for my Buick that I want a 383 stroker. Well I been looking online at some stuff to build it. I will be buying a used block, thats got some mile on it or blown to start with.

What year would be the best to look for, do I want a short block? long block? what are some of the differences between these motors? I will be building it into a decently worked 383, and eventually in a couple years build a custom twin turbo set up for it, so it will have to handle gobs of power.




keep dreaming, to build a motor like that would take lots of $ and then to get your car to handle all that power

and why a 383 stroker, thats a high torque low rpm motor, turbos would need a high rpm motor to get any boost going

[Rastus]

For what you're planning, forget about spending the extra $$ for a stock 4bolt main block. They aren't that much stronger, what you want to do is get a cheap 2 bolt and set it up for splayed 4 bolt caps. CI doesn't really matter at this point, you can build it into whatever you want.
Newer style block or the older 2-piece, it's up to you. If you go with the newer 1-piece, you'll be ready to slap in roller equipment for your valvetrain.

Also, depending on how much PSI and RPM you want to run, you want forged internals. Yes, they're alot more expensive, but when you start adding giggle juice(maybe, if you want) and PSI you will need harder internals. This is your call, you'll have to judge what you want to do with your setup and money restraints.

I've heard the stock run of the mill 350 piston is good for about 4-6PSI, although I've read/heard about cars running 20 PSI+ on stock junkyard motors. It's a gamble, you could do really well with stock stuff or you could blow it the first night you have it done.


Something else you want to think about: Is the vehicle and its driveline capable of dealing with the added Tq+hp? If you don't prepare this aspect into your thinking, it will come back to get you later. :scary:


Goodluck. :)

[Rastus]

Originally posted by 1fastR


keep dreaming, to build a motor like that would take lots of $ and then to get your car to handle all that power

and why a 383 stroker, thats a high torque low rpm motor, turbos would need a high rpm motor to get any boost going

He's right, it will take a lot of $$$, but you have to pay to play.

Not nessecarily, depending on how you build it. If you build the motor right with components that compliment each other with a target RPM in mind, and then select a good turbo setup with the right AR, it will have no problems winding out and making good boost.



Edit:Almost forgot.
This site (http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/) Has a good bit of info on turbos, etc. If you search around you'll be surprised what you can pick up on, even though it's a mustang site. :)

[milburn]

A 383 Is just a stoker motor its a 350 motor with a 400 crank

[TheFontMaster]

Why I want to go with the twin turbo is I have heard alot of good things about that set up on the 350 style motors. I was reading some stuff on the Banks twin turbo kit for these motors, and I am really liking the power that I can get out of them. The turbo set up isn't something I would do for another couple years. I will build the motor in one of my classes here at Wyotech.

And I haven't forgot about the drivetrain ether. To start out the motor will just be the 383, I have a turbo 350 trans in the car already, and that will work for now. A parallel 4 link set up will be going in the rear end for suspension, and I am not sure what I will be doing with the actual rear end quite yet.

[extremeblastr]

i don't remember the exact combo that they used but horsepower tv buit a 383 small block out of the 350 and its was at 506rwhp for just over 5gs

[TheFontMaster]

Originally posted by extremeblastr
i don't remember the exact combo that they used but horsepower tv buit a 383 small block out of the 350 and its was at 506rwhp for just over 5gs


Thats good to know, now I know about what price, and horsepower range I'll be in. I'll probably try to spend a little less, and get it right around 400-450 or so. I can probaly get a discount on some parts through WyoTech, then I know some people back home in NY that can get me deals on some parts.

[1fastR]

pic, it just looks spendy:D

[TheFontMaster]

I was just using the Banks kit as an example. When it comes time to put the turbo set up on the motor I will just buy a couple turbos, some waist gates, and fabricate new headers, intake, and all the piping myself. So when that time comes I will have probably not even 1300 into the twin turbo set up.

[450rJam]

find a 69-71 chevy/gmc truck (4 bolt mains)
they where stock with close to 300hp and had stock 194 heads.
(you can pick up a set of cast 202 heads with springs,valve,3 angle valve job for 400 bucks)
150 for headers/ 150 for eldebrock intake/ 200 for true dual exhaust & high flow mufflers/ run about a holley street dominator 660 or 770 carb/ get at least an hei dist. toss on the little things like chrome, braided lines, etc.

I assume your in a buick gn ? the stock 2004r trans. will hold until about 400hp. over that you will need to do a little beefing up.

even if you have to get it bored, turn the crank etc.
your still frying tires for less than 2k.

[Rastus]

Don't forget that you have to keep in mind whether it's going to be a streetable car or not. Some people have different terms as far as "streetable". You have to be realistic in your estimations.


If you read around you'll pick up info about about what CR to use, what cam will compliment what, etc. If you build a motor for a boosted application and then run it NA, it won't run as well as you'd hope, but it'll still run alright. But if you build a motor for a NA application trying to get as much HP out of it before you even get turbos mounted, and then boost it, you WILL have problems.

[TheFontMaster]

No it is not a grand national. It's just a basic regal. It had a 307 chevy out of a 72 nova put in it, and a turbo 350 transmission.

[red2004 TRX450R]

http://www.shafiroff.com/rotators/350ra.asp