350X Clutch question

[TRX_350XX_rider]

I've done a conversion, 250X frame, w/350X motor. All Stock.
:devil
Question is, I had issues with clutch slippage. This is a crate motor, had a yellow jelly substance inside it when I got it. Was told it's rosilene and that's what keeps the cylinder and such from rusting... ok, I just took that with a grain of salt, but here's my dilemma.

My clutch slips, as if I'm feathering the clutch when I let it out...

I took it apart to examine the plates, no shiny marks, the metal plates were not marred, or scarred. Everything looks fine, except that there were plates that were dry... absolutely dry, while others were wet.

I noticed this, the outside plates(closest to cover) are wet, while the insides (motorside) are dry.

This motor has 4 hours on it, I've put them all on it, for breakin, it's never been over 4th gear, never over 4k RPM or so, and I'm trying not to worry, but have been told that if the clutch is slipping on a brand new motor, it needs to get hot and get hot oil in the places where the "rosiline" was to get it out....

Sorry for the extremely long post, but I'm not a clutch person, I just turn wrenches and ride.... this has become a GREAT conversion... I've heard it'll smoke a 400ex, and I'm anxious to find out....

Anyone with any help, suggestions, opinions, advice, I do thank you in advance.

[QuadFixer]

is it a hydraulic clutch? just wondering?

[eldoexrider01]

im not good wit clutches either man. maybe after i see about the hinson clutches

[TRX_350XX_rider]

Not a hydraulic, it's a manual clutch, like I said, it's all stock... that's what's got me puzzled...

The biggest problem is the slipping... if I could get that narrowed down, I'd be fine... I've fabricated alot on this, but only motormounts, oil cooler location and steel braided lines for the cooler and that's it.

Anyone know why some plates were dry and some were wet?

Thanks....

[300exazzkikr]

they should be wet!! It's a wet clutch system..Thats probably why it's slipping. I would check your oil level, cause thats what wets the clutches. If the oil level is good, take the clutch plates out and you can soak them. NOT in synthetic oil...you shouldn't be running synthetic on a break in anyway.

Side note. when you check your oil. don't screw it in, just stick it in. That will give you an accurate reading. I've done this conversion before...it rocks.

[TRX_350XX_rider]

Ok, I know what you mean by no synths during breakin, and I've changed the oil each time it gets an hour or so... but I've also heard, it is better to have too little than too much oil... True or False???

Ok, so I'm checking oil by screwing the cap all the way, and I shouldn't. Ok I'll try that...

Secondly, If you put the motor under a load, it'll start engaging better, and even ride wheelies in 2nd and 3rd, but only after almost 45min of riding...

I'm thinking of taking the plates and discs out and sanding them to make them more abrasive...I mean, how much "more" damage can I do? Worst case scenario is I need a new clutch, and if I ride it and destroy it, so be it, I need a new one already....

Can I salvage these discs? I think when it was stored, the fiber disc were maybe damaged then and I'm just now finding this out.... or am I just FREAKING PARANOID?????

Thanks guys, you're alot of help... I do appreciate it....

[lil400exman]

call east coast atv they are really good with 350x motors my dad had a motor (350x) and they helped me gettin runnin like a top to sell it!:devil