A arm bushing kits

[Trevor]

What is the purpose of the metal sleves ? 1 kit comes with them and the other dosent. Which is better and are they needed?

[Trevor]

and these

[Trevor]

I need a set of these for my 300ex. I just want to know which ones to get. The kits without the metal sleves are way cheaper so I assume they arn't as good.

[Trevor]

Someone must be running these !!!!!!!!!

[F-16Guy]

You want the ones with the metal sleeves. They are spacers that keep the a-arm mount tabs on your frame from bending in when you torque your mount bolts. The blue ones look like crap that someone turned on their lathe at home. Beware of a lot of these aftermarket companies, their idea of R&D is changing things as they hear complaints from customers.

[Aceman]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
You want the ones with the metal sleeves. They are spacers that keep the a-arm mount tabs on your frame from bending in when you torque your mount bolts. The blue ones look like crap that someone turned on their lathe at home. Beware of a lot of these aftermarket companies, their idea of R&D is changing things as they hear complaints from customers.

F16Guy, I usually agree with what you say. I think you should at least run the product before you badmouth it. For all you know, these could last longer and perform better than the ones with the metal sleeve. If you notice the length of the blue plastic bushings, it looks like when they're inserted in both sides of the arm they will come together, in effect acting as a spacer. Some cheaper kits don't do this, so you end up pinching the a-arm when tightening the bolt. JMO.

I looked on Ebay and X.System on here is the one that makes these. From reading his posts, he seems to be a standup guy who would have no problem backing his product up. Honestly, next time I replace my bushings, I will be most likely using his product.

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by Aceman
F16Guy, I usually agree with what you say. I think you should at least run the product before you badmouth it. For all you know, these could last longer and perform better than the ones with the metal sleeve. If you notice the length of the blue plastic bushings, it looks like when they're inserted in both sides of the arm they will come together, in effect acting as a spacer. Some cheaper kits don't do this, so you end up pinching the a-arm when tightening the bolt. JMO.

I looked on Ebay and X.System on here is the one that makes these. From reading his posts, he seems to be a standup guy who would have no problem backing his product up. Honestly, next time I replace my bushings, I will be most likely using his product.
I saw that too, but when you torque the bolts it's going to compress the mount tabs onto the bushings and cause them to bind. The purpose of the sleeves is to allow you to torque the bolts to the proper specs and still allow the bushings to move freely inside the mount tabs. You may be able to avoid that by carefully tightening the bolts and making sure you don't compress the tabs, but let's face it, about 0.5% of the people on this website would have that much insight; most people would probably just crank them down tight. Honda engineers put those spacers in there for a reason. I'm sure the guy selling those bushings is a stand-up guy, I'm not contesting that, but I'd also be willing to bet he's not an experienced mechanical engineer.

[Aceman]

Point taken, I agree.:D

[F-16Guy]

BTW -- I'm a native Oregonian, and Tillamook Cheese kicks arse!!:macho :D

[Aceman]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
Tillamook Cheese kicks arse!!:macho :D

You bet it does, I'm glad you like it!:cool:

[86 Quad R]

another thing i'd like to point out about the sleeveless bushings versus the sleeved bushings, is the fact that even if the sleeveless do touch in the middle allowing for proper torque. the bushing becomes stationary and therefor force the a-arm to hinge on the bushing causing wear to the arm. the sleeve type allows the tabs to bind and the bushing wears on the pin.

[Trevor]

thanks for all the info

[trx416m]

neone have an idea if either of these would fit 450r jrd racing a-arms. or pivot works. I rli need some new bushings and cant find jrd's number anywhere so if sumone knows of an aftermarket company that fits it would be greatly appreciated.

thx

[x.system]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
I saw that too, but when you torque the bolts it's going to compress the mount tabs onto the bushings and cause them to bind. The purpose of the sleeves is to allow you to torque the bolts to the proper specs and still allow the bushings to move freely inside the mount tabs. You may be able to avoid that by carefully tightening the bolts and making sure you don't compress the tabs, but let's face it, about 0.5% of the people on this website would have that much insight; most people would probably just crank them down tight. Honda engineers put those spacers in there for a reason. I'm sure the guy selling those bushings is a stand-up guy, I'm not contesting that, but I'd also be willing to bet he's not an experienced mechanical engineer.

Sorry I missed this post, must have been out racing on my product. From what I see in your post your calling 99.5% of the people on this site stupid, or incapable of tightening a bolt? The spacers (actually called a collar) you talk about honda putting in there are just that, spacers so you can torque the bolt down to 36-43 ft-lb. Anyone with a manual can figure that one out.

Now, lets think about surface area for a second, the stock oem sperical bearing surface area is 12.5mm or .0492in and the pivot point is the bolt correct? (bolt rides on the bearing).

Now lets take a sleeved bushing, you torque down your bolt on the sleeve which now changes the pivot location from the bolt to the sleeve now, so instead of having two wear areas with oem (bearing and bolt), there are now four wear areas ( bolt, sleeve, bushing and a-arm), not that the a-arm is going to wear against a delrin bushing but it changes the stock wear location, correct?

Now my product, I designed it to have minimum wear, similar to hondas, which I think is the best design but very pricey. My bushings press into the a-arm and are designed to be stationary. The pivot point is the bolt which now pivots on a self lubing bushing instead of a bearing. Surface area is increased from 12.5mm to just over 30mm or 1.186in, thats more than double what the oem bearing has and it still puts the pivot point where oem had it. The spacers as you call them are built into my bushings for a simple design, again, self lubing. If you think about it, my bushings are more like oem than the sleeved bushings, mine just have more surface area than stock and less wear areas than sleeved bushings.

Ohh, just so you know, I test my products well before I ever release them and I have not had one single complaint from any of my customers in the last 2 years I've been making these. I've had one set go out that did not fit correctly but I sent out a second set at my cost to correct my mistake. Check my feedback, my product speaks for itself.
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=x.system&ssPageName=STRK:ME:UFS


Originally posted by 86 Quad R
another thing i'd like to point out about the sleeveless bushings versus the sleeved bushings, is the fact that even if the sleeveless do touch in the middle allowing for proper torque. the bushing becomes stationary and therefor force the a-arm to hinge on the bushing causing wear to the arm. the sleeve type allows the tabs to bind and the bushing wears on the pin.

How in the world is a steel a-arm going to wear against a plastic bushing when its stationary? I've challenged you to wear out a set of my swingarm bushings, hows that coming along? Did you even install the set I sent you for free?

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by x.system
How in the world is a steel a-arm going to wear against a plastic bushing when its stationary?


it cant if the bushing is pressed in. figured it was the same loose fit style as your swinger bushings are.

taking in account that the bushings are stationary on the arms and there isnt any pins. that means(as previously mentioned) that when torquing down the a-arm bolts, you are pulling the mounting tabs (frame) into the bushings, causing them to bind the bushing(which is stationary in the a-arm because its pressed). is there a binding here some where? :confused:



Originally posted by x.system
I've challenged you to wear out a set of my swingarm bushings, hows that coming along? Did you even install the set I sent you for free?

ahhh, no sir............

and if i remember correctly. i made mention to as to why.

now dont get me wrong x.system. i think you are on the right track with your bushing making and the craftsmanship is A#1 but, IMO i think there are some variables that need a lil attention that i've previously mentioned.

i:)