LTR motocross mods..?

[05Z400rdr]

What would be the first things you's would modify on a LTR to set it up for motocross?

[bassmasterslay]

well you definitely need some nerfs and a kill switch, but other than that all you really need to do it buy a cherry bomb, take the baffle out of the pipe, and pull the airbox lid or modify it. that will put you in the 46hp range.

[bwamos]

Tune / Revalve the shocks. (after the nerfs, tether kill, etc..)

[ckasper18]

XFR Extreme Fabrication Racing makes awesomenerf bars very high quality you wont be disappointed give John a call 435-688-7352

[CdaleXtreme]

In order of importance for going fast on an MX track.

1. Exhaust, and Airbox mod. (will need to install a PIM, or PIM equivalent)

2. Rear suspension revalve or replacement.

3. Steering Stabilizer

4. Front Suspension Revalve or replacement.

Of course you need nerf bars and the obvious stuff also.

[manban]

How about gear changes does any body know if a taller /by one tooth front sprocket, give the LTR a bigger low end pull or what?
I am not ready for a new exhaust yet ...... but was wondering if gearing can give me a low end boost. rather than having to feather the clutch so much..... Iam a novice mx er and sometimes my speed is not all that around certian bumps and all of a sudden I need torque to clear a whoop section or a small double and I end up not clearing:eek2:

[quadman 05400ex]

u go down with the front sproket and u go up teeth in the back

[CannondaleRider]

Yeah, and if you cannot go down any teeth in the front, just go up in the back.

1 tooth in front is equal to 3 in the back, about.

[manban]

and I will feel the extra umph? and loose a little top end or what?

btw

Thanks duded!::D

[ckasper18]

Yes

[manban]

:D

[Z400Racer37]

What bassmasterslay and bwamos said is spot on. All you need for an exhaust is to take out the baffle in the stock pipe. Don’t let anybody fool you definitely DO NOT need a 700 dollar pipe to be effective in a race. As bwamos said you need to re-valve and re-spring at least your front shocks and if possible also do the rear unit. the reason you should take care of the frints first is because the energy from a bump will reach your arms more easily trough the front, increasing arm pump. if you dont have the rear set up right it wont get as good traction, but its better to have that than to not be able to hold on. but unless your last name is gust and your number is 55 the stock springs will be way too hard. They were hard for most of my open A riders in my district (the pros obviously don’t have to worry about stock anything haha). As far as tire selection goes stock tires are awesome. Gust took them to a couple of victories last year, but if you feel they don’t suit your riding style them get aftermarkets. Its hard to say which ones since you didn’t provide any types of surfaces that you ride on but for hard pack up front I would run Holeshot sx’s. those and the mxr6’s or 4’s hook up awesome on the hard pack (the sx’s a little better on hard pack and the 6’s or 4’s are better for softer stuff.) if things get muddy run the razr mx fronts or the kenda… klaws (I think) I personally like maxxis better but there are people that swear by kenda. Now rear tires is where it gets tricky. The itp tires give awesome forward hookup (the sx’s on hardpack hook up a little better in a straight line). in the corners I found my mxr 6’s to work famously on hard pack. The mxr 4’s have a little harder compound and supposedly get a little loose (ive never tried them myself but my uncle has). I have no idea of how the sx tires slide but id assume theyre similar to the 6’s because of the similar compound. So if youre hell bent on itp’s those are the characteristics of them. However, the absolute most under rated tire for hardpack is the razr mx. I know all the pros run its with the exception of byrd but lets face it they got offered big dollar contracts to run those tires so who wouldn’t sign. But two seasons ago when Natalie was on his uprising, he was running the mx’s and he was rippin it up. The mx’s definitely have better side bite than the itps. Again it depends on how you like to ride. If you prefer to get the rear loose then youll love the itps, but if you run better by makin it stick the mx’s are the way to go. Other than that this thing is pretty much ready to go unless you want personal comfort items like a damper or clutch lever (I have a msr raptor short lever) but other than that if you ride it hard enough you’ve got a quad that could rock in the a class.

[CdaleXtreme]

Originally posted by Z400Racer37
What bassmasterslay and bwamos said is spot on. All you need for an exhaust is to take out the baffle in the stock pipe. Don’t let anybody fool you definitely DO NOT need a 700 dollar pipe to be effective in a race. As bwamos said you need to re-valve and re-spring at least your front shocks and if possible also do the rear unit. the reason you should take care of the frints first is because the energy from a bump will reach your arms more easily trough the front, increasing arm pump. if you dont have the rear set up right it wont get as good traction, but its better to have that than to not be able to hold on. but unless your last name is gust and your number is 55 the stock springs will be way too hard. They were hard for most of my open A riders in my district (the pros obviously don’t have to worry about stock anything haha). As far as tire selection goes stock tires are awesome. Gust took them to a couple of victories last year, but if you feel they don’t suit your riding style them get aftermarkets. Its hard to say which ones since you didn’t provide any types of surfaces that you ride on but for hard pack up front I would run Holeshot sx’s. those and the mxr6’s or 4’s hook up awesome on the hard pack (the sx’s a little better on hard pack and the 6’s or 4’s are better for softer stuff.) if things get muddy run the razr mx fronts or the kenda… klaws (I think) I personally like maxxis better but there are people that swear by kenda. Now rear tires is where it gets tricky. The itp tires give awesome forward hookup (the sx’s on hardpack hook up a little better in a straight line). in the corners I found my mxr 6’s to work famously on hard pack. The mxr 4’s have a little harder compound and supposedly get a little loose (ive never tried them myself but my uncle has). I have no idea of how the sx tires slide but id assume theyre similar to the 6’s because of the similar compound. So if youre hell bent on itp’s those are the characteristics of them. However, the absolute most under rated tire for hardpack is the razr mx. I know all the pros run its with the exception of byrd but lets face it they got offered big dollar contracts to run those tires so who wouldn’t sign. But two seasons ago when Natalie was on his uprising, he was running the mx’s and he was rippin it up. The mx’s definitely have better side bite than the itps. Again it depends on how you like to ride. If you prefer to get the rear loose then youll love the itps, but if you run better by makin it stick the mx’s are the way to go. Other than that this thing is pretty much ready to go unless you want personal comfort items like a damper or clutch lever (I have a msr raptor short lever) but other than that if you ride it hard enough you’ve got a quad that could rock in the a class.

:eek2: Try breaking your Blob into some paragraphs.

First off they dont make MX-R4s anymore. Secondly all of todays soft compound MX tires will hook up very well for the first 3 hours of their life. But the Holeshot SX is the only tire that maintains for any amount of time.

Dropping to a 13 tooth front sprocket will help you alot. It will also extend your clutch life a little too.

The biggest thing you miss out on, with a stock pipe + baffle removed is over rev. You dont even have to buy a full system, just get a slip on. The stock head pipe is very good.

[manban]

Will I get away with my stock chain & adjustment or will I need a shorter chain?

Last but not least. I am really liking that FMF megabomb. You think I can get away with a MBomb on a motorworks slip on?

I searched everywere for dynos on the FMF factory4 but nada..... and e-mailed them 3 times and zero....

Thanks.

[CdaleXtreme]

Originally posted by manban
Will I get away with my stock chain & adjustment or will I need a shorter chain?

Last but not least. I am really liking that FMF megabomb. You think I can get away with a MBomb on a motorworks slip on?

I searched everywere for dynos on the FMF factory4 but nada..... and e-mailed them 3 times and zero....

Thanks.


You can use your stock chain, it will just take you towards the end of your adjustment range.

The only way you could tell if the Megabomb would work is. 1. call FMF, and see if their headpipe is in the same configuration as the stock headpipe. 2. Buy it and try it. My gut tells me it wouldnt work though.

[Warnerade]

you really dont need much to race mx on the lt-r...cherry bomb and take out the baffle is pretty much the only thing. I really dont understand why anyone says the stock front springs are too stiff...I have raced a full season on them and they perform like any other stock shock i've raced on....

To the man who posted the journal entry...there is no way a stock LT-R can be competitive in the A-Class...atleast not in michigan.