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lost boyz
10-04-2006, 06:49 PM
ok im looking on redoing my 2000 400ex...
my question is this...

i do alot of trail riding but sometimes rip and tear...i dont need somehting over kill and not reliable like the 440 kit..

so here we go...

the 416 is it reliable on trails?

im looking to do weisco piston anyone know what size it is?

what hotcam should i go with stadge 1 or 2?

i see on ebay a 416 kit with the mag cam are they good or should i just got with hotcam?

will i need to do any head work meaning valves?

should i port and polish if so whats a ball park on price?

will i need to change the front sprocket for the trails or is stock fine?

i have a white brothers exhaust/white brothers rev box/uni filter/

is there anything else i should do or check into when doing the 416 kit???

LIKE I SAID IM DOING ALOT OF TRAIL RIDING BUT LIKE TO OPEN IT UP FROM TIME TO TIME...
BUTTTT I WANT IT TO BE RELIABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ANY MORE SUGGESTION WOULD BE GREAT.....
THANKS AGAIN FOR ANY HELP

Castor-426ex
10-17-2006, 05:36 AM
hmm

1. yes its reliable
2. if i were you id use a je piston 87mm in size bore and hone cylinder to match
3. again if i were you..id use the stage 2 hotcam
4. go with hotcam
5. not unless you want too..although hotcams suggests that you beef up your valvetrain a little but as long as you arent gon race it week in and out itll be ok
6. a port and polish is affordable hp...i payed 40 bucks but call around could be more might be less
7. depends on your riding style...
8. a good addition to this would be a heavier duty clutch set up i used the sparks setup with heavy duty springs and loved it...also white brothers makes a decent exhaust but i went from a big gun full system to an hmf full system and i couldnt beleive the difference its was worth every penny

a 416 is reliable its only the 2nd size bigger on the stock liner and if it ever does need rebuilt you can go to a 426 and on up







good luck

yellow400ex05
10-17-2006, 07:24 AM
whats the difference between the stage 1 and 2 hotcam? like different powergains??

GPracer2500
10-17-2006, 10:23 AM
Originally posted by yellow400ex05
whats the difference between the stage 1 and 2 hotcam? like different powergains??

The HC Stage 2 will give away a little on the bottom compared to the Stage 1, but makes up for it on the top. The Stage 2 was refined slightly a few years ago to make it a little more "all around" oriented.

Personally, I'd use a Stage 1 in a stock compression engine and a Stage 2 for anything higher compression than stock.

L.Vegas400
10-17-2006, 12:20 PM
my 416 is 4 years old and there isnt one thing it hasnt done for me, everything from cali dunes to trails in the rockies(3000' to 9500' didnt have to rejet, a bet fat at the high altitude though) :cool: when i did mine i read lots of old posts everything i could find and came up with the combo i have now. worth every penny. the only thing i would change is to a full exhaust. do your homework

underpowered
10-17-2006, 12:42 PM
1. any bore can be reliable if built right, even 440's.

2. 87mm, .080 over bore. Wiseco is fine, but i prefer JE or Ross.

3. depends on your style. i likethe stage 2, but if you want alot of low end i would go with the stage 1.

4. have not heard anything bad about them, buti would stay with what you know works, Hotcams.

5. you don't have to, but if your valves are work i would suggest Kibblewhite black diamond.

6. a port and polish is a grea addition, even to a fairly stock bike. i would suggest it. a good port job will be anywhere from about $200-as much as $500+ a cleanup of casting marks can be cheaper, only about $50 or so but you won't see nearly the gain as a true port job.

7. depends on you. i like stock, a 14 t is too low for me. others however love the 14t. it is cheap, so give it a try and see what works best for you.

8. an HD timing chain, HD head studs, Cometic flexsteel gaskets would all be suggested.

underpowered
10-17-2006, 12:44 PM
Originally posted by Castor-426ex
.....6. a port and polish is affordable hp...i payed 40 bucks but call around could be more might be less......


where did you get that done at? i would bet it is a simple clean-up job, not a port job. most shops charge about $200-300 for a port job, i have seen as much as $500 for port work. i know the shop i work at charges $55 an hour and it takes atleast 4 hours to get a GOOD port and polish on a 4-stroke head.

EXevan91
10-17-2006, 01:06 PM
http://www.advmachining.com/400EX.html

this is the guy who bored my cylinder.

i have a 416 and as long as u put it together right u will have a good reliable engine.

i have a stg 2 magnum and iam happy with it also :)

so call the this guy http://www.advmachining.com/400EX.html

and talk to him about a port job cam bore etc... :)

great work great price !

lost boyz
10-17-2006, 02:52 PM
ok since im doing the 416 kit this is what i got so far

wiseco 87mm high comp piston 11:1
cometic gasket
hotcam stadge2
heave cam chain....
port and polishing

its getting done in 2 weeks


my question is do i HAVE TO do heavier head studs?
and do i have to do valves???



can i just run the stock studs and not touch the valves....

GPracer2500
10-17-2006, 03:17 PM
You don't HAVE to run HD studs but I would. They don't cost all that much to buy and install. It's piece-of-mind that's definitely worth the money IMO. Look at it this way, a 35+ HP EX (or whatever the threashold may be) might pull the stock studs. It doesn't really matter if it's a 89mm piston or a 85mm piston. If your trying to build a high-output EX, get the studs.

The valves should at the very least be inspected. It just doesn't make sense to build-up an engine and leave in valves that are on their last legs. On an older or high hour EX expect to at least need new intake valves (they tend to wear faster than the exhaust side). Worn valves/seats can often be re-faced but if there's significant wear then the valve face won't have an adequately sized sealing surface. I wouldn't bother going to the trouble of porting unless you also give some attention to the valves. Whoever does your port work should be able to assist with valve work too.

In my experience, more often than not if you try and cut corners on an engine build it will cost you more time/money/aggravation in the end.