View Full Version : Clicking....No its not the battery
MichaelS693
08-31-2002, 03:56 PM
whenever i try to start my bikes no lights come on so i said hey its gotta be the battery and so i hooked it up to charge it and when i do i let it "charge" for 2 nights and when i take the things off the battery all the lights turn off when they are on the lights are one and ill try and start it with the cables on and it will click in the cylenoid someone told me i needed just to go and buy another cylinoid and yes i cleaned the electrical components that hook up anyone have $.02 i can borrow:D :confused:
probably your starter brushes.
replace those first since they are cheaper.
MichaelS693
08-31-2002, 04:30 PM
how do i do that
Are you 100% sure you checked your positive battery terminal? I've seen (3) 400EX's do what you are saying and everytime its a loose connection on the positive terminal.
Eric
MichaelS693
08-31-2002, 04:45 PM
yes i have charge my battery cleaned everything up and still wont do
is the fuse blown ?
will it start if you try to jump start it from another vehicle (with booster cables like jumping a car)..
I'd be tempted to take the battery right out, clean the terminals, charge it overnight and take it to a parts store / garage and have it load tested..
While I was at it I'd take all the connections apart, and clean them up real good (including the 4 places where the subframe bolts to the frame itself as they are a critical part of the ground circuit)..
Leo
phatswinn
08-31-2002, 05:38 PM
i agree with the lord of the site, the fuse probably blown
Pappy
08-31-2002, 05:53 PM
well...just because you charge it doesnt mean its good. and at what rate are you charging the battery ? its a 8 amp hour battery and even on small charge they are easily overcharged.
the battery cannot be load tested, atleast conventionaly. we use conductance testers but they are very hard to find in most stores or garages.
if all the grounds..the positive cable...and the fuses check out ok .....you may want to take the battery for testing. how old is the battery? how often do you either charge it or ride?
Originally posted by 400ex127
the battery cannot be load tested, atleast conventionaly.
sure it can.. either conventially (vat, carbon pile, etc..) or with one of the newer (and horrendously inaccurate) battery testers that don't use a traditional carbon pile to apply a load.
what would make you think you can't load test the battery?
Leo
Pappy
08-31-2002, 07:18 PM
simply the fact that you cant get a standard set of parrot clamps on the terminals. i have seen the end result of a bike/jet ski battery tested when someone uses a carbon pile tester...and it melts a terminal.(because most techs do not know the correct procedures for operating the tester}
the batteries are only rated at 120 c.c.a's and are almost fried if you manage to get a vat40 or carbon pile tester on them. we use the conductance testers which have a 98% accuracy rating and will not harm the battery.
the fastest way to test a battery is with a multimeter right on your quad with the battery still installed. i test well over 500 quads..street bikes..jet ski etc batteries and electrical systems a year.
bluebaron
08-31-2002, 07:28 PM
i happens to mine laty i just wiggl the + wire that connect to the battery
Pappy
08-31-2002, 07:34 PM
Originally posted by banshee_ex07
i happens to mine laty i just wiggl the + wire that connect to the battery
get a few star washers from the local hardware store...i think they are 5/16 in diameter. place one between the battery cable and the terminal....when you tighten it up...the lil ridges in the washer "bite's" into the lead and the terminal end and provides a better connection.
I didn't say crank it up to 250 amps draw :D
We have the top of the line, super duper, best money can buy $1800 battery tester at the shop.. I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it.. When we first got it (mandated by Chrysler) I got bit by it a few times.. Now it's just a very expensive paperweight..
Then we have an 50+ year old carbon pile, slap it on, hook up an inductive ammeter, dial in a realistic load, and take a peak at the old voltmeter.. Batteries under a true load don't lie.
I've done my share of electrical system diagnosis over the years...
Leo
Pappy
08-31-2002, 08:07 PM
ahhh...someone who can use the carbon pile:D
i see so many batteries failed that are not bad im a lil bent on the training programs for techs and mechanics. everything is going computerized and it still dont work.
i lose over $50,000 a year in one county alone because of mis diagnosed battery failures:eek:
anyone need a used battery...lol
That's how I make my $$...
I fix the electrical gremlins that others can't...
All those under-trained techs makes great job security for me :devil I want the cars to have more computers, more wiring, more multiplexed circuits, more data bus's..
Then to top it off pretty soon we'll be playing with 42v not 12v...
Show me the money.. LOL
Leo
Pappy
08-31-2002, 08:19 PM
haha..yeah the 42 volts are here.
looks like the dealerships will lock up that business...cuz the aftermarket isnt ready for them. snap on man told me they havent even begun development on a tester....i know we havent ...and so far as i know....we are just going to supply the dealership with the new agm batteries. i have seen 6 different systems so far..but im not sure which will work better then the others.
Originally posted by VWVR6
Are you 100% sure you checked your positive battery terminal? I've seen (3) 400EX's do what you are saying and everytime its a loose connection on the positive terminal.
Eric
thats what happened to me a while back. Not sure what is wrong with your machine though.
MichaelS693
08-31-2002, 09:55 PM
exracer i see in your info that you have a banshee for a drag bike....do you ever come to lincoln county mississippi to drag race at marks track???? i know some people from la who has the fastest banshees out at the track if you havent ever been you need to come down one weekend and race with us
MichaelS693
09-02-2002, 06:55 PM
it was my cylindoid a put a new one of and it started right up
What if you've cleaned all connections real good and it still just clicks?? Say you do get it started,,you ride around and next time you try to start it it works.. I'm having a heck of a time with mine right now too.. sometimes it will draw the battery down cuz you can hear and see that it is draining the battery to start,,then sometimes it just clicks,,or buzzes as mentioned before....I"m still thinkin I need a new battery,,I guess when Kenny hooks me up with a battery I'll see what that does. If that doesn't fix it then I"m sellin the POS>.:eek:
Well, I hate to tell you Rico, but the only fix to your solution is to sell the quad. As a matter of fact, I happen to know the "blue book" value of your quad in the shape its in. (hard time starting because ot battery). Its worth around $200-300. If you would like, I'd buy it off ya for the high side.... $300! :D
Just kidding. Actually that sounds like your battery is becoming toast real quick. I'd slap a new one in there....
Eric
MichaelS693
09-03-2002, 03:22 PM
why was this moved?:confused: :huh
Houser Cannondale
09-03-2002, 07:42 PM
could somebody explain to me what a carbon pile tester is?? I have a little knowledge about electrical systems basic troubleshooting but have never heard of one of these.
Pappy
09-03-2002, 07:56 PM
a carbon pile tester is a tester that will apply a varied amperage load on the battery. normally it is based on 1/2 the rated cold cranking amps of the battery. example...if a battery is rated at 500 c.c.a.'s the load teat would be at 250 amps. the amp gauge will be watched and compared to a chart and it will pass or fail based on the reading. ( not complete but u get the ideaz)
the bike/quad batteries are small and normally have ratings in the 60 to 180 cca range. while it possible to use a carbon pile its not very accurate due to the fact that the terminals are so small good contact is seldom acheived. we use a conductance tester for these batteries and its very accurate. it sends a current signal thru the plates and its speed thru the battery is compared to a know set of values stored on a micro chip. hope this helps.
stupid driver
09-03-2002, 08:33 PM
ok, this same exact thing happend to me. wut i did, and i still need to figure out how to fix it was: ok there is a wire on the rear side of the battery( towards the back of the quad), it is attatched to the battery, and runs to the rear frame. i dont know wut the **** it is but when i pushed on the wire, it started. after a while it wudn start so i pushed on it again, and it started. im stumpt, maybe sum1 knows wut to do.
Pappy
09-03-2002, 08:35 PM
if its running from the - negative terminal to the frame its the ground cable. it needs a good ground for all the electronics to function properly
MichaelS693
09-03-2002, 08:40 PM
thats your negative ground cable.........clean both end real well and it will work from there
HEY
try the starter and it might be a dead short in one of the wires or it might be the cilonoud but the starter ground might be dirty so take off the ground and shine it up and reconnect it !!!!
if that doesnt help im sorry
Cannonball08
09-04-2002, 11:15 AM
It is your + terminal, You need to clean it with a wire brush then make sure you have it really tight. Mine did the same thing the bad thing about this was I was In the middle of a XC race.
Doibugu2
09-04-2002, 11:21 AM
Originally posted by Cannonball08
It is your + terminal, You need to clean it with a wire brush then make sure you have it really tight. Mine did the same thing the bad thing about this was I was In the middle of a XC race.
Read above he already fixed his problem. It was his cylindoid.
stupid driver
09-04-2002, 11:47 AM
thanks a bunch. my quad started right up this morn. when u say cleanin the grounds, how do u take the grounds off. do u just undo those screws on the battery?thanks:devil :devil :devil
MichaelS693
09-04-2002, 06:27 PM
Originally posted by stupid driver
thanks a bunch. my quad started right up this morn. when u say cleanin the grounds, how do u take the grounds off. do u just undo those screws on the battery?thanks:devil :devil :devil
yeah and take the wire off and clean it
timewass
09-09-2002, 08:11 AM
While you are trying to start it take the handle of a hammer and lightly tap on the starter in various places, DON"T HIT IT HARD, just a tap will do it. If it starts because of the taping, then you need a new starter. cars do this all the time. Just tap on them and go.
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