Best Reed Intakes??

[ERBE]

Yeap gotta ask, Stock CR Rad Valve, Boyesen Rad Valve, V Force 2 , V Force 3, 1 Dir reed cage.

[250r4life]

i prefer the boysen rad valve myself...

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Base the reed cage you buy on where you want the power output.
V force cage, would be good for upper end power because of the thicker stiffer reeds.
Stock Honda CR250R cage will work well with 2 stage reeds in the bottom end to midrange.
The Rad Valve will work well in the bottom end to midrange with a little rev, but the carbon fiber top reed itself wont last long.
A replacement reed set for the Rad Valve, part #RL-19 fiberglass reeds will last alot longer.
The ultimate cage to buy would be the modified FTZ Racing, Rad Valve, little pricey though & comes with carbon fiber reeds set up for upper end power. Changing the carbon fiber reeds over to the RL-19s will give a better all over power output.

Dont know about the 1 Dir.
Neil

[jon370r]

I have tried them all at one point and C-LEIGH nailed it. I have always gone back to the Boysen Radvalve for the best all around performance and I also like the standard reeds rather than the carbon fiber.

[matt250r21]

I got the Sparks reed cage and intake boot on my PV motor, but I think it is just a stock CR250 setup. Anyone know what the best year CR250 cage and boot is for the R. I have checked Honda part #'s and every year from 1986 to 2001 is different.

[deathman53]

I use 86-98 rad valves, after that about every year has a different number, but I'm told they all work.

[amanda250r]

v force

[mxduner]

is there any way to find out which intake boot I have?I will soon be on the market looking due to the good ole aging of rubber :mad:

[440ex dragger]

I am running the ESR cage with Carbon Fiber reeds on my 330. Its a topend cage though.

[Eddiesanders250]

Originally posted by 440ex dragger
I am running the ESR cage with Carbon Fiber reeds on my 330. Its a topend cage though.
Did you notice a difference when putting on the ESR cage compared to what you had before?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Originally posted by mxduner
is there any way to find out which intake boot I have?I will soon be on the market looking due to the good ole aging of rubber :mad:
Get you a Boyesen Rad Valve & your rubber intake worries are over.
Neil

[atvmxr]

FMF rad valve. bet you cant even buy one any more???

[440ex dragger]

Well I would say yes and no....I bought it with the ESR 330 kit and yea I guess you could say there was a difference felt.

[albi0609]

Boyesen rad valve is the way to go,i like it better then any other reed out there ....

[mxduner]

thanx guys i have a v force in right now,im on my first 250r:D I would like more all around power or atleast more bottom end but it was in the machine when i got it and i have nothing to compare it to,should i use the stock intake boot? whatever boot is in there now needs replacement soon and i know the 38 pwk slips in just fine(maybe a cr boot) thanx a bunch guys:) btw I'm a little confused by c-leighs reply about "rubber boot problems will go away" could anyone inlightin me thanx

[matt250r21]

Lots of people seem to like the Boyseen Rad Valve, I have had 2, the 250R one and the CR250 one. To be honest I didn't like them because the boot from the cast reed cage is very short and uses two clamps that are very close to each other. The boots on mine had a tendency to work lose or pull away when over tightened, and the CR cage had an extreme angle on the boot that made lineing up the carb and airbox boot a little difficult. They do work well, but I was always scared it would come apart at the wrong time. I really like the stock Honda stuff, the CR250 parts work great for me and the CR boot dosn't have the extreme angle the Rad Valve did.

[250r4life]

Originally posted by matt250r21
Lots of people seem to like the Boyseen Rad Valve, I have had 2, the 250R one and the CR250 one. To be honest I didn't like them because the boot from the cast reed cage is very short and uses two clamps that are very close to each other. The boots on mine had a tendency to work lose or pull away when over tightened, and the CR cage had an extreme angle on the boot that made lineing up the carb and airbox boot a little difficult. They do work well, but I was always scared it would come apart at the wrong time. I really like the stock Honda stuff, the CR250 parts work great for me and the CR boot dosn't have the extreme angle the Rad Valve did.

im with you on the CR rad valve... i had one for a bit, and i hated trying to get the carb to line up because of that angle... it was a pain in the butt and i finally just orderd a TRX one instead... i like the boysen set up for the very reason that there isnt a whole lot of rubber there, and so there is less chances of rotting and sucking in sand.. the other set ups have a lot of rubber, adn its easy for them to crack and suck sand... this is what c-leigh was referring to... i dunno... i have never had a problem with the botts working lose or pulling away from eachother, but then again i didnt over tighten them...

just my .02

[C-LEIGH RACING]

I kinda got lost on the Rad Valves, I thought he was talking about a stock Honda CR reed cage & manifold.
Never seen a CR type Rad Valve.
I could see where over tightening the clamps on the rad valve would have an effect on the rubber part, make it pooch out the carb.
You can buy a piece of straight radiator hose from a auto parts store & end that problem as well.
This type of hose has cord in it & wont deform like the rubber part that comes with the Rad Valve.
You want to see a bad Rad Valve, go to FTZ Racing web site & look at the modified one they offer.
Neil

[mxduner]

yea i was talking about the intake :mad: but i am also looking for a more mx/woods style of a powerband. I have what looks to be an agressive port job with no initials, and i was gonna try a bandade, 34 or a 36 pwk and a different set of reeds to help out on all around power for track riding and trails, i also just picked up a trx-6 pipe from esr, however, with the porting i'm hoping i'm not going backwards. any suggestions:confused: :confused: :confused:sorry if i am stealling the thread about the reeds:ermm:

[beerock]

you guys are having problems with the rad valve because you really need the reed spacer for the cr carb.... that will fix your problem

[250r4life]

Originally posted by beerock
you guys are having problems with the rad valve because you really need the reed spacer for the cr carb.... that will fix your problem

cr carb? or did you mean cr rad valve? i had the cr rad valve with the reed spacer, and length wasnt my problem, it was the angle between rad valve, the carb, and the airbox boot...