shot splines on hubs and axle....solutions?

[maxamillion]

My stock hubs never stay tight on my stock axle. I tighten them down as tight as I can then tighten even more with an impact. I even put grease in between the splines and use locktite on the hub nut.

They always come loose on the trails and its a PITA. One of my wheels fell off today...they cotter pin came out and I lost my hub nut on the trail. Im pretty sure the splines are done for on both the hubs and axle splines.

I like the idea of the durablue X-33 pin drive set up, but that a lot of money for a rec rider...plus its a durablue.

I could also buy a new axle (g-force or lsr) and maybe get some durablue hubs to go with it. I think RPM makes some rear hubs too but Im sure those have a sky high price.

I got some money put away, but Id rather not dump a fortune into the rear end because college is coming up. What do u guys think I should do?

[bradley300]

its really not a huge problem everyone deals with, you may have just got a quad that was a little off. i say buy another stock axle and hubs and try again.

[maxamillion]

I think I will go with a g-force axle (only $200) before I go back to stock ($165). I know theyre not indestructable but they have a good warranty and I dont race. I didnt realize OEM hubs were only $60 a pair through service honda so I will prob buy new stock hubs like you said.

Just wondering, why are the 99-01 hubs $90 a peice and 02-04 hubs are 30 a peice. I have an 02 but I was just curious.

Thanks-Max

[JOEX]

Originally posted by maxamillion
I think I will go with a g-force axle (only $200) before I go back to stock ($165). I know theyre not indestructable but they have a good warranty and I dont race. I didnt realize OEM hubs were only $60 a pair through service honda so I will prob buy new stock hubs like you said.

Just wondering, why are the 99-01 hubs $90 a peice and 02-04 hubs are 30 a peice. I have an 02 but I was just curious.

Thanks-Max
I think it has to do with where they are manufactured.....

[bradley300]

thats possible, 300ex parts are twice as expensive as 400ex parts, and its all becasue where they are made

[JJ69]

if your going to college soon you prolly wont be riding much right?
use your saved money to buy a new set of sprockets and a chain, check the rear-end bearings and brakes and stuff, make sure everything will last and weld the damn things on, then, by next summer when you do have some money, grind them off and buy new ones. i drove a 200sx with welded hubs for 2 years, i ground one side off to replace the sprocket and bearings, then welded it back on.. never had a problem with it after that.

[jesshamner]

Yeah I was going to mention the welding thing but only if you were really on a budget. If you do weld them, make sure they're done right. Nothing like breaking a weld on the trail. ....happened to a friend of mine.

[LakeMonster]

Originally posted by jesshamner
Yeah I was going to mention the welding thing but only if you were really on a budget. If you do weld them, make sure they're done right. Nothing like breaking a weld on the trail. ....happened to a friend of mine. I would do the same, if it does break u wont lose anything cuz u can just get a new axle like originally planned

[maxamillion]

I never thought of welding them on....Not a bad idea but I would like to do it right the first time. Plus another day of riding would be ruined if the welds broke.

I got it all apart now, the bearings could used replaced because they are starting to make slight noise and arent so smooth. I took them out and found a hairline CRACK visible on inside and out on one side of the carrier where the bearing sits. :eek:

So heres my plan...

new OEM hubs ---- $60
new G-Force axle --- 200
Burgard dual carrier---150

Im goin to college next year at MMI in Phoenix and probably taking my quad so I want to have it reliable and ready to ride before I leave w/ out spending a boat load.

[Aceman]

I would only replace the carrier and bearings. I'd tighten the axle nut back on with locktite then tack weld the hubs on the top and bottom. Or maybe three sides 120 degrees apart. Even if it doesn't work, which I think it will, you were still planning to buy new hubs and an axle so you have nothing to lose. Except for a little welding and some time. I honestly can't see a few good tack welds plus the tightened hub nut coming apart on you out on a trail. Get out the old grinder next time you change bearings and you're good to go.

[maxamillion]

Okay, you guys convinced me. Im goin to just buy a dual row carrier then weld on the hubs. Ill let you know how it turns out.

[tltcracing]

weld it? why? just check it every time you ride. get some decent cotter pins and just check it. i have to check mine every time i go ridding along with the wheel nutts too. they never seem to stay tight. welding just seems a little excessive to me.

[maxamillion]

You dont understand. I check them everytime before I ride (after they came loose the first time) and they come loose in about 10 minutes. I grease the splines too. The splines are worn to the point where I either need to weld them, or buy a axle and hubs.

[1fst400]

I would put the axle nuts on with an impact. then put a tack on the nut holding it secure to the axle. But in the middle so you can still get an impact on it to buzz the nut off.

Then I would run a bead around the axle to hub. Only problem I see is that the hubs are cast. cast does funny stuff when you heat it up like that, Mabie you would be better off just welding it in short spurts. so you wont put to much heat into the hub.

[Aceman]

Originally posted by 1fst400
Then I would run a bead around the axle to hub.

Why would he want to do that?

He would have to literally torch the axle in half if he ever wanted to remove it. He justs needs the hub to stay on, it doesn't need to be welded solid. I'm sure a tack weld(s) will suffice.