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FoxRacing81
08-10-2006, 05:30 PM
Before you tell me to search, I have, and have not found anything I need about this...

READ before you reply.

I just got this YFZ and they sold me a killswitch. It is a Gunnar Normally Open killswitch. I know with the closed killswitch hooks up to the wires under the hood, and the other wire to ground.

The guys at the dealer told me this killswitch has to be hooked to the coil and ground.

First off, where the hecks the coil on these things? Can't seem to find it.

And secondly, after I find it, how do I hook it up?

I know Baldwin makes a plug in, but I am not interested in that.

Please reply quick if you know anything. Need to have this done for sunday to race.

Thanks
Justin

BigAl
08-10-2006, 05:46 PM
the Pro design and others are normally open, I believe.

The Gunnar is available in normally closed version.

the mech. at the local shop told me the normally closed switches could be hooked right into the killswitch harness on the bars.

when the YFZ's first started having electrical troubles, alot of people were recommending this type of switch.

If you did a search, I bet you could find some older posts that would explain it all.

BigAl
08-10-2006, 06:00 PM
ACutally dont hook it up at all, There is a kill switch I carry call Gunner Which is a normally closed kill switch and not Normally open like pRo design which was not even designed to run with battery operated ignitions, If you called the guy at pro design after him griping at you for 30 minutes for not readin the instructions he will tell you that switch was made basically for bikes with no battery, the gunner swithc is 40 dollars and mounts like a pro deisign, I have them in stock and its 100 percent safe, how you hook a pro deisng up you are basically shorting out your cdi or pickup coil when you pull the cord, on the gunner you hook it into your on/off switch that runs down from your handlebars plug it into the black plug that has the brown and red/black wire I beleive and run the ground to a bolt, thats it, when you pull the cord its like you just flipped the off switch, no shorting anyhting,

FoxRacing81
08-10-2006, 06:09 PM
No, the Gunnars come in both open and closed, and they gave me the open one.

BigAl
08-10-2006, 06:22 PM
If it's open, then wire it just like a pro-design.


Follow the wires up from the oil filler plug (four wires) to just before the first connector (under the hood) the wires separate into pairs. Pick the white/red pair and splice the longest wire out of the kill switch into the white wire and the short wire from the k/switch into the red wire. No need to earth any wire.

courtesy of BT

FoxRacing81
08-10-2006, 09:09 PM
Originally posted by BigAl
If it's open, then wire it just like a pro-design.



courtesy of BT


I would go that route, but this thing has like a plug in connection on the one end...do I cut that off or what?

FoxRacing81
08-11-2006, 09:55 PM
bump

ZSK
08-12-2006, 10:26 AM
The Baldwin adapter is really worth the money. No cutting or splicing just plug and play.

I like to use a saddle or butt connector when splicing wires.

http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/images/bsm/splice_connector.jpg

Cut the plugs off the kill switch and strip the ends. Put one of the kill switch wires in the closed end, and put the white or red wire through the open end, when you clip it closed it'll make the connection for you.

FoxRacing81
08-12-2006, 12:36 PM
Originally posted by ZSK
The Baldwin adapter is really worth the money. No cutting or splicing just plug and play.

I like to use a saddle or butt connector when splicing wires.

http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/images/bsm/splice_connector.jpg

Cut the plugs off the kill switch and strip the ends. Put one of the kill switch wires in the closed end, and put the white or red wire through the open end, when you clip it closed it'll make the connection for you.


Well, I needed this done for this weekend, so I would have never got it in time...
My brother is a wiring expert, (he wasn't here whenever I was trying to figure it out before) and he said its a lot better actually to solder the wires together instead of using the butt connectors, because they will corode and stop working alot easier...

We used a meter and test my old pro design switch and it was the same as the gunnar, so we hooked it up with the directions from magic racing. Works perfect.