Splitting the cases

[TheFontMaster]

Well it seems like the rod berrings are bad in my motor, so I'm gonna have to split the cases, and while I have them apart I'm going to overhaul the whole thing. Replace all the berrings, seals, gaskets etc. While I'm at it I'm also going to machine the cases to accept up to a 350 top end, I plan on putting a big bore on it in another year or so, so I might as well prep the bottom end for it now while I have it apart.

Other than needing a flywheel puller, maybe an impact to get the clutch hub off, and keeping track of where all the parts go is there anything else I need, or need to know before I start taking it apart?

Last question, is there any place online where I can get a template or something for machining the cases? And having them machined for the big bore won't affect anything while I'm still running a stock cylinder, or a stock cylinder with a LA Sleve 300cc sleve in it right?

[novaracr70]

as far as template i used my spacer plate. that came with my cylinder. i could measure the size if you would like? and yes you can still use small cylinder

[250r4life]

if it is the original bottom end and has never been split, i will doubt it will just slide right off... you will likely need some kind of press or something... i dont have that 3 pronged one like the clmer manuel reccomends, but i did it with a two prong one...

that gasket was a bear to get to let go after 17 years in there... same thing with my clutch when i did it last summer...

[TheFontMaster]

Does anyone have a template or something that they can photo copy, and send to me?

novaracr70- Thanks for the offer, but I really would like a template, over some measurements, so that I have something that I can actualy put on the cases, and line up so I don't make a mistake on any measurements or anything.

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Does anyone have a template or something that they can photo copy, and send to me?

the best thing to do is to actually buy the spacer that is required to run the big bore setup and use that to markup the cases.

if you are infact gonna run the big bore in the future ya may aswell wait to do the case work then. to my knowledge, the larger big bores require a stroker crank and your gonna need to pull the cases apart to install the new crank anyways. see where im going with this?

[TheFontMaster]

Originally posted by 86 Quad R
the best thing to do is to actually buy the spacer that is required to run the big bore setup and use that to markup the cases.

if you are infact gonna run the big bore in the future ya may aswell wait to do the case work then. to my knowledge, the larger big bores require a stroker crank and your gonna need to pull the cases apart to install the new crank anyways. see where im going with this?

I'm just planning on running a 330, nothing more for a while. I'll just get a kit that would run the 330 on the stock crank.

[beerock]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
I'm just planning on running a 330, nothing more for a while. I'll just get a kit that would run the 330 on the stock crank.

bore it to what you want, you dont need anything to releivee stress, the metal sleeve is good enough, broe it for a 350 and run the 330

[TheFontMaster]

Beerock, would you happen to have an extra one of those plates that you could sell me, or trace a template for me? I don't know yet which company I will get the top end from later down there road, is there a difference between the plates from company to company. This rebuild is already goin to cost me atleast 500 dollars, probably closer to 700 if I end up goin with the LA sleeve 295.

[250r4life]

OEM crank assembly $275 (they just upped it since like 3 weeks ago)
All new Seals $50
New Gasket Kit $45
New Crank Bearings $42
New wrist pin bearing $13
New Piston & Rings $100
New Dome $50
Misc (shipping, locktite, assembly lube, etc...) $25

well, youre looking at $600 right there, and thats not counting what labor- if you decide to bore it or resleeve it or whatever...

on the bright side, a well running 250r is priceless... some things you can't buy with money... for everything else, theres mastercard

:D :D :D

[86 Quad R]

or discover...............


wutts in your wollet? :devil:

[TheFontMaster]

Originally posted by 250r4life
OEM crank assembly $275 (they just upped it since like 3 weeks ago)
All new Seals $50
New Gasket Kit $45
New Crank Bearings $42
New wrist pin bearing $13
New Piston & Rings $100
New Dome $50
Misc (shipping, locktite, assembly lube, etc...) $25

well, youre looking at $600 right there, and thats not counting what labor- if you decide to bore it or resleeve it or whatever...

on the bright side, a well running 250r is priceless... some things you can't buy with money... for everything else, theres mastercard

:D :D :D

Check my post in the C&D racing section. I got a quote for all the stuff from Colby for just under 500 dollars, it will be about 500 after shipping. Granted that was with using a hot rods rod, instead of a whole new OEM crank.

I know OEM is the way to go with most motor parts, but is there any way I can get just an OEM rod, and not have to buy the whole crank assembly?

[beerock]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Check my post in the C&D racing section. I got a quote for all the stuff from Colby for just under 500 dollars, it will be about 500 after shipping. Granted that was with using a hot rods rod, instead of a whole new OEM crank.

I know OEM is the way to go with most motor parts, but is there any way I can get just an OEM rod, and not have to buy the whole crank assembly?

you dissapoint me font....

only run oem parts man or you will suffer

[beerock]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Beerock, would you happen to have an extra one of those plates that you could sell me, or trace a template for me? I don't know yet which company I will get the top end from later down there road, is there a difference between the plates from company to company. This rebuild is already goin to cost me atleast 500 dollars, probably closer to 700 if I end up goin with the LA sleeve 295.

the la sleeve is great but you really need a aftermarket radiator for it to run cool, and the cylinder head will still have issues unless you have it machined for a steel oring like mac dizzy's setup.... even he says highest you should go is 270

try to find a cheap big bore instead....

[matt250r21]

If you want an oem quality rod only kit you need to look at the Niks Pro-X stuff. Have your crank checked were the main bearings ride, if there is any play your going to need a new OEM Honda crank assembly.

[TheFontMaster]

Originally posted by beerock
the la sleeve is great but you really need a aftermarket radiator for it to run cool, and the cylinder head will still have issues unless you have it machined for a steel oring like mac dizzy's setup.... even he says highest you should go is 270

try to find a cheap big bore instead....

When you say the highest I should go is a 270, do you mean 270 with the stock radiator?

[beerock]

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
When you say the highest I should go is a 270, do you mean 270 with the stock radiator?

bore size, although i knw a few people with 295's and no problems, but there are alot of people who LIE and say it runs good and never tell you when they have problems for character sake.

from what i know the stock jugs have problems with stock radiators

if your gonna do this rbeuild right do it right, dont puss out on oem **** cuz its 100 bux cheaper...

either port ythe **** out of your stock jug or find a good 310 or 330 DO IT RIGHT dnt be hypocritical of all your good posts

[250r4life]

well, in addition to not going half *** on your top end, i would not go half *** on your bottom end either... you were saying you were thinking about just getting an aftermarket rod and rebuilding the stock crank... well, i would go whole new crank if i was you, especially if you are going to go bigger and better on top end... if you hop up the top end and go cheap on the bottom end, youre more likely to blow your bottom end again, and it will only tear up your new and expensive top end...

it dont pay to be cheap... if you need, go deliver pizzas or something for a week, but when you do it, do it right... do what you gotta do to come up with that extra money...

[250r4life]

Originally posted by beerock
the la sleeve is great but you really need a aftermarket radiator for it to run cool, and the cylinder head will still have issues unless you have it machined for a steel oring like mac dizzy's setup.... even he says highest you should go is 270

try to find a cheap big bore instead....

for what youre gunna spend on an aftermarket radiator, you could apply it towards your top end and get a real big bore istead of a stock rigged one

[86 Quad R]

font..... listen to these guys man. it makes a lotta sense what they say about the stock cylinder(big boring it) versus an aftermarket and the issues with running a stock rad.

you cant cut corners when it comes to the crank and all. i personally havent dealt with the big bores but have witnessed alot of things as i have a relationship with one of the best engine builders in my area and have learned that a good strong solid crank is where its at. mind you, that a crank can be rebuilt with "pro-X" rod and last just as long as a BRAND new OEM but rebuilding one RIGHT takes plenty skill.


the way i see it is:

a new crank is 245.00 +/-

built crank is 100.00 +/- for rod kit, labor to build is 100.00 +/- and the uncertainty of whether or not its gonna hold up

another 45.00 and ya have a new OEM.

[TheFontMaster]

Yea I have decided to just bore the stock cylinder a little more, and get a new OEM crank/rod, new berrings, seals, all that good stuff. A big bore will have to wait.:o