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View Full Version : 400ex ticking problem? cant figure it out!!!! please help!



brb400ex
06-15-2006, 09:42 PM
hi
i recently installed a 440 big bore kit, magnum cam 64, hardened rocker arms and 460 lift springs in my honda 400ex. with that combination, it chewed up the cam in around 3 hours or less.

the shop said the cam was chewed because of the heavy springs so i changed back the springs to the stock ones. and now there is a stage 2 cam in it.

when i started it up for the very first time, there was no sound. but after only 10 minutes of driving to try and break it in, it has a real fast ticking. my friend and i cant understand why and we dont know whats wrong.

would anyone know about this? thanks

GPracer2500
06-15-2006, 09:45 PM
Have you rechecked the valve clearances??

nosliw
06-15-2006, 09:53 PM
aftermarket cams will tick pretty noticeably

brb400ex
06-15-2006, 10:27 PM
Originally posted by nosliw
aftermarket cams will tick pretty noticeably

so will they tick for a while then the tick go away? and if, how long?

sixer3
06-15-2006, 11:32 PM
if its a rediculously loud tick, you need to re-check your valve lash, and cam chain tensioner, if those check out, your ears are probably decieving oyu.....after-market cams for the 400ex make it tick a bit more from the increased lift, especially hotcams, mine ticks also, been running in for a few months no problems and still ticking(a normal tick) lots of people get this ticking

DieselBoy
06-15-2006, 11:59 PM
quiet valve noise is normal.

brb400ex
06-16-2006, 01:05 AM
Originally posted by DieselBoy
quiet valve noise is normal.

but its not quiet, thats why im concerned

Teufel
06-16-2006, 07:21 AM
check and recheck valve clearance........also check the tension on the timing chain and make sure you are getting plenty of oil on top.....

DieselBoy
06-16-2006, 11:24 AM
Than I wouldn't hesitate to check the timing chain.

brb400ex
06-16-2006, 02:26 PM
Originally posted by Teufel
check and recheck valve clearance........also check the tension on the timing chain and make sure you are getting plenty of oil on top.....

ok

here is another question:

is there any procedure to check the oil pressure on top?

NOTE: i also replaced the gears in the oil pump as well.

MIKE400EX
06-16-2006, 03:54 PM
Did you replace the hard welded rockers with OEM ones when you changed the cam back to a S2? Hardwelded/hardfaced rockers are not compatible with a HCS2 cam.

acz440ex
06-17-2006, 07:09 AM
I agree with Mike400ex. Hot Cams use stock rocker arms.
I do not agree with that dealer about the stiffer springs causing the problem. As I started reading through your question and replies I was thinking to myself 'It sounds like he is not getting enough oil up top'. My suspicions were confirmed when you said you did work to the oil pump. It has been my experience(learned the hard way of course) that if something isn't right after I fix it, it is probably because of something I did and not the parts. My guess is you didn't get something right with the oil pump. As far as the ticking goes, Stage 2 cams are louder. It took me 3 or 4 valve adjustments to get mine right. I finally realized my engine drifted from TDC while I was adjusting the valves. Verify TDC after adjusting every valve.

brb400ex
06-17-2006, 12:02 PM
Originally posted by MIKE400EX
Did you replace the hard welded rockers with OEM ones when you changed the cam back to a S2? Hardwelded/hardfaced rockers are not compatible with a HCS2 cam.

ah, that could be it.
see, to get them hardened, i had to send the rockers away coz if i didnt, i wouldnt get a discount and would of had to pay full price

now, ill have to try and find some OEM. darn!
anyone know of a place you can get them cheap?

also.........

is there anyway to check the oil compression on the top?

GPracer2500
06-17-2006, 12:28 PM
I'm not aware of any standardized methods for checking oil pressure. Other than confirming that the oil pump is within its service limits (inner rotor, outer rotor, pump body), the only way I know of to confirm the oil pump is operating correctly is to use the oil check bolt. When the oil pump is operating correctly the oil level in the crankcase should be flush with the bottom of the check bolt (at idle).

To check the oil pressure in the head I'd think you'd have to tap into that oiling circuit and connect an oil pressure gauge [shrug]. Even if you did that though, I'm not aware of a published PSI specification to compare to.

acz440ex
06-17-2006, 02:25 PM
I don't know how your funds are, but you could get one of Mickey Dunlaps oil cooler kits. It runs about $125 I think. This kit bypasses the internal oil passage to the head. It has also been reported to lower oil temperature going into the head by 40 degrees or so. I plan on putting one on my 440 soon. Once installed there would be no doubt as to wether your pump is working or not. All you would have to do is loosen the external hoses. If it leaks, your probably ok. Mickey might have some suggestions if you contact him.

ATC4LIFE
06-18-2006, 08:17 AM
Took mine to a top race builder yesterday. Ticked like crazy, even after the valves were checked and rechecked. Guess what, Hot cam (2) likes to hit the head and do a little gouging. not a good thing. And yes it was correctly put together. This tick I had started out mildly during break-in then progressivly got worse. Didnt hurt the power at all. But annoyed the heck outa me, exspecially when i lined up next to the other Air-Hammers at the track and mine was the only one you heard. Get rid of the HC i thought it was a nice drop in part until TICK,TICK,TICK. Good Luck.

GPracer2500
06-18-2006, 11:24 AM
Where was it hitting? What moved or changed that caused it to not hit when it was assembled but then hit later and then hit even worse?

ATC4LIFE
06-18-2006, 05:29 PM
Not sure. I will be going out to the shop this week to see it for myself. I was wondering the same thing, Where and What.......if something shifted. As soon as i know i will let you know as well. I'll try and snap some photos as well. But i do know it definitly got louder half way through breakin.