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TheFontMaster
03-28-2006, 06:22 PM
I know I hear alot of people asking about using this, and most of the people that use it seem to have bad results with it. When I used it on my old 300ex I had great results with it.

You start off with 220 grit wet sand paper. This grit with take the longest, because this is the grit you will use to get rid of all the scratches and faded areas. Make shure that when you sand you sand with the lines of the plastics, otherwise the scratches will show up more when you aply the PC racing clear on it. For example on the hood sand straight up and down the hood, not left to right across it, or diagonaly. Sand with this grit untill you are down to new plastic that hasn't been faded by the sun, or untill the scratches are gone. You won't be able to sand out all of the scratches, but sand untill it is to your liking.

The go up to 320 grit wet sand paper, and sand untill there are no more 220 scratches. The step up to 400 grit wet sand paper, and sand untill there are no more 320 scratches.

Now it is time to aply the clear coat that is provided in the kit. Put some of the clear on the cloth that comes with the kit, and aply 3 coats of clear. Make shure to aply it the same way you sanded, in long smooth even strokes, going with the lines of the plastic. After 3 coats, lightly buff it with the fine grit steel wool that comes with the kit. Then aply 2-5 more coats of clear, this time buffing with the steel wool in between every coat. And thats it.

There are only a few complaints I have had with this, well actualy one. Where the plastic flexes, over time the clear will start to get spider web cracks in it. To fix this wet sand with 400, and re-aply the clear in that area.

And finaly I do have a few sugestions to make it turn out better. The first is when you are sanding with the 220, keep sanding, even if you thik it's good keep sanding. You won't sand through the plastic, and the more you sand the better it will look. The second I would sugest that after the 400 grit wet sanding, step up to 600 grit wet sand, then 1200 wet sand before you aply the clear. The last thing, the kit only comes with a few sheets of sand paper. If you are sanding alot like I did with my 300ex you will need to go out and buy more sand paper. I will post pics of how my old 300ex turned out.

TheFontMaster
03-28-2006, 06:33 PM
Before.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/thefontmaster/Picture036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/thefontmaster/Picture037.jpg

After.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/thefontmaster/Picture038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/thefontmaster/Picture039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/thefontmaster/Picture055.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/thefontmaster/Picture054.jpg

Sjorge450R
03-28-2006, 06:38 PM
not trying to steal this but this is what happened on my 300ex and I followed the directions fully and I even called PC racing to make sure I was doing everything right. Well When I finished, everything looked all good and dandy....

Sjorge450R
03-28-2006, 06:39 PM
and then after ONE race.......

Sjorge450R
03-28-2006, 06:40 PM
2

Sjorge450R
03-28-2006, 06:40 PM
3

Sjorge450R
03-28-2006, 06:41 PM
and the last one.....lets just say, i dont like PC racing anymore....:ermm:

Ripitupfilms
03-28-2006, 07:04 PM
is that what it looked like before you put the stuff on.. then it looked the same after one race

Sjorge450R
03-28-2006, 07:07 PM
Originally posted by atvracer9m
is that what it looked like before you put the stuff on.. then it looked the same after one race

the first pic is what it looked like, right after putting it on. I dont have any good pictures of before the entire process but here is the stock picture to give you an idea.

TheFontMaster
03-28-2006, 07:49 PM
Hmm I wonder if the company that made the plastics has something to do with how well it holds up. I used it on Maier plastics.

Sjorge450R
03-29-2006, 04:30 AM
Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Hmm I wonder if the company that made the plastics has something to do with how well it holds up. I used it on Maier plastics.

yeah the fronts are stock and the rears are maier. The box and bottle both say " Works on all types and color plastic"

BiG James
03-29-2006, 05:21 AM
did the plastic look like that before you put in on then i wore off and looked the same or did it make it worse..

I used this stuff once and it worked for me

hrc
03-29-2006, 05:33 PM
One of my friends used plastic reniew and his cam with this liquid stuff that you have to keep putting on the plastic to keep it looking good. Maybe that is what you have to do.

1fst400
04-10-2006, 08:20 PM
I did my plastics. the nice shine does whare off fast. But when I'm done racing or riding I wash my quad. then take out the 000 super fine steel wool. I go over all the scratched areas quickly, then aply some of the pc renew liquid. Makes them look pretty nice.

DamageInc
04-14-2006, 07:44 PM
I've tried that plastic renew. If you want it to look good for a short time just to sell it, it works well. But if you are going to ride it after you treat it, it doesn't hold up worth ****. It also peels off from strong cleaners, even just Simple Green.

stupid driver
04-21-2006, 09:08 AM
if i could suggest, ive used mop n glow on my plastic for the past cupple of years. it is alot like plastic renew in its characteristics, only that it doesnt seem to peel off like the PC renew does.

jshtex
05-30-2006, 07:01 PM
There is a review of plastic renew on this site here:

http://www.atvriders.com/reviews/renew.html

I wrote this review.

To make a long story short, it looks good for a short period of time. Is it worth the ton of work it takes to go thru the process? Well let me just say not too long after the review I bought a full set of Maier plastic.

don250r
11-08-2006, 03:21 AM
it didn't work too well on my '85 250R gas tank.
was peeling off and turning white after it set out in the rain one night, two days later.
the wet-sanding did more for it than anything.
BTW, an old-school tip for wet sanding.
paint what you're wet-sanding with a light coat of cheap black paint(unless the plastic is black, then use white).
This helps you see the sand scratches from the coarser grit, and when you no longer see black,
you can stop sanding in that area.
When all the black is gone, paint it again and change to a finer grit.

Toolpig
01-17-2007, 07:28 PM
I used it on my prairie 700. it was a lot of work and I was not satisfied with how it held up. Since then I have been going through the sanding process up to the point of where you apply the liquid. Instead of using the junk in the bottle I use my paint buffer on the plastic with a wool bonnet . It works better than the plastic renew any day. It holds up better too. just watch it so you don't burn the plastic with it.

m.h.s.c.#527
02-10-2007, 10:25 PM
is it just me whenever i race a muddy race my plasticlooks almost white then i wash it it looks the same and i play around on it then before i no it its normal is there something in the mud i dont mean to be a retard but jeeze

Goody7
03-13-2008, 08:47 AM
Save the money and just use a torch. Works a hundred times better then the\ floor wax look u get from PC!!!!! Be gentle with using a torch tho and u'll almost get a factory look to the plastics. I have even heard red Pl. coming out even brighter.