Problems installing Pro-X cylinder... HELP

[stever250r]

Ok I am having two problems.

First I can not get the head to clear the powervalve so I can install it. Does the PV cover need to be removed to install the head on the cylinder??


Second... The cylinder does not want to slide all the way down on my crankcase studs. It goes fine over the threaded portion of the studs but then hangs up. Its like the studs are too large for the mount holes on the cylinder. First time I've ever encountered anything like this.

Any suggestions from similar experiences??

[matt250r21]

I have 3 PV pro cross cylinders, everyone of them I had to take the head and file down a little of the aluminum on the head so it would clear the PV part. Its not much just a little aluminum needs to come off. Not sure about the studs. Are they bent in the case? Dose your stock cylinder fit ok? Check hole dia. between the two. Maybe the pro x needs a slight drill clean up through the base mount holes.

[stever250r]

Thanks Matt.... I will file some of the head away so it will clear the PV.

As far as stock cylinder fitting the studs, I dont know.
Im building from scratch so the PRO Cross cylinder is the only one I have. I will look at it closer tomorrow to figure it out.

[beerock]

what size pro cross? larger then 330 need to bore the cases..............

I had problems with studs before because someone hacked my studs up before me and they were a *****

[readybeartoe]

Originally posted by stever250r
Ok I am having two problems.

First I can not get the head to clear the powervalve so I can install it. Does the PV cover need to be removed to install the head on the cylinder??


Second... The cylinder does not want to slide all the way down on my crankcase studs. It goes fine over the threaded portion of the studs but then hangs up. Its like the studs are too large for the mount holes on the cylinder. First time I've ever encountered anything like this.

Any suggestions from similar experiences??

#2-I recently tried to install a LRD PV cylinder straight onto an 86 short rod bottom end without using a spacer plate.!! It cleared the studs BUT, The rear "skirts" on the SLEAVE were too long and needed to be grinded down and filed on the corners to clear the crank and to match the cylinder's skirt. I REALLY didn't want to grind on it So, I ended up just using that LRD PV top end on another 89 long rod bottom end I have, and I used the 4 mm. spacer plate and the YZ piston that came with it. It was inteneded to be used with the 89 long rod bottom ends anyway.

I don't think the YZ piston(shorter than 86 honda style piston) that came with it would have had enough compression on the short 86 rod anyway. I really would have had to use an 86 honda style piston to bring the compression back up without using the spacer plate on the 86 bottom end.

If you're using something like what I mentioned above, Try putting the jug back on as far as it will go down and then try to turn the kicker by hand. If it won't turn because the crank is stuck? then "that's your problem."

#1-I didn't have any touble with the Pro X head that came with mine but I can tell I won't be able to use a regular Pro Design Cool Head because of the PV being in the way. Oh well, Don't need it anyway....

Hope this helps:D