Hot Cam Stage 2 Help!

[bh2285]

Ok, I have a fully built 400ex with this all done.

This is a 440 ex motor it has a j&e 12:1 piston,ported and polished head,white bros valve springs,xr 400cam,the head and cylinder have been decked .025,the head studs are9/16 in diameter instead of 10mm and they are 1in. longer than stock. Carb has the choke removed and is tuned to this motor.

Here is my problem I bought the HotCam stage 2 and installed it. At the time I was in a hurry and didnt adjust the valve lash(very dumb). Ever since then its had a sound like an exhaust leak when im letting off the throttle. It sounds great when im getting on it but when I engine break it sounds like the lash is set wrong. I know theres a chance that I bent a valve but I hope not. Since then I have set the lash and it still ticks...I just found the card it came with and it says:

Part no: 1008-2

Intake
lift 8.85mm
lobe cebter:106
duration @ 1mm: 254
valve lash: .13mm

Exhaust
lift:8.6mm
lobe center:107
duration @ 1mm:254
Valve Lash:.15mm

Remarks: Lash set cold


I guess im looking for any help possible..I dont think I am setting it right I have the service manual and do as it says but i dont know if im useing the shims right to set lash or even if im useing the right thing...

[lafinrat]

remove the large plug in the LH crankcase cover, turn the motor counter-clockwise until the intake valves begin closing, and adjust the exhaust. turn the motor CCW until the exhaust valves begin to open, adjust the intake.

adjust exhaust with intake closing
adjust intake with exhaust opening

thats the most accurate way to do it. just always remember to turn the motor in the normal directiono of rotation--same as the wheels turn basically.

if you wanna check for a bent valve, you'll need to do a leak-down test, or disassemble the motor. a fresh motor should leak down less that 10% if its built right.

also, make sure your timing chain tensioner isn't wore out.

[bh2285]

Dont I just adjust when the T mark is lined up?meaning the rocker arms are lose..Also which tool is used for valve lash I think I have the right one.

[GPracer2500]

Make sure your engine is cold. It should NOT be warm to the touch. If you have this type of feeler guage set, it helps to bend the ends of the guages so they fit better.
http://i3.ebayimg.com/01/i/04/97/ef/01_2.JPG
Make sure the engine is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Line up the "T" mark on the flywheel with the index mark. Only turn the crank counterclockwise (when facing the left side of the engine). This is important because of the auto-decompression mechanism on the cam. When you've got the index marks lined up the piston is at TDC--but you might be on the compression stroke OR the exahust stroke. If you're on the compression stroke than there should be a tiny bit of up/down play in the rocker arms--unless they are all at 0 clearence (that's bad!). You can also observe the movements of the valves while turning the crank over to confirm which stroke you're on. They should all be closed at TDC on the compression stroke.

Once your sure you've got the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, you can set your valve clearences. Insert a feeler guage between the sub-rocker arm and the screw-type adjuster that's threaded into the end of the rocker arm. If your not sure which gap your trying to get the feeler guage into, then just loosen one of the adjusters by alot and it should be clear which space your dealing with.

Use your feeler guages to set the valve lash to the appropriate gap. To adjust: loosen an adjuster, slide in the correct sized guage, tighen the adjuster down untill there is some resistance on the feeler--but you still want to be able to slide the feeler around. Then, without moving the position of the adjuster, tighten the locking nut. Re-measure the lash to make sure the adjuster didn't move when you tightened the locking nut.

It's often a good idea to try and fit the next largest feeler to make sure it doesn't fit. If the next largest size does fit but only with much difficulty than your ok.

Also, see here: http://www.exriders.com/techarticles/valves.html

[bh2285]

Thanks Alot this is great!! So I set it to the lash that the card says correct?

What are the chances I bent a valve the lash is not anywhere near as lose as it should be...

[bh2285]

Ok, Im looking at my thickness gauge and just making sure im using the right one its says

.006 or 0,15mm-Exhaust
.005 or 0,13mm-Intake

Is this correct..Now that I look at how tiny this is I think the lash it way to lose.. Would this cause a tick when Rs are dropping?

[FoxMxRiders]

It's right ;)

[bh2285]

Sweet---Thanks im going to adjust this tomarrow then ride for a bit ill let you know if it works...If I set this and it still ticks does that mean I bent a valve?

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by bh2285
Sweet---Thanks im going to adjust this tomarrow then ride for a bit ill let you know if it works...If I set this and it still ticks does that mean I bent a valve?

I doubt you bent a valve, if you did bend a valve it probably wouldn't run because it wont build compression.

[bh2285]

I like to hear that..But if it was just bent the littlest bit it could cause a tick right....Well Ill just fix it tomarrow and let you all know...

[GPracer2500]

My Stg 2 (old style) ticks somewhat more than stock with valve lash set to Hotcams' spec.

[bh2285]

What did you set your lash at? What do you mean by ticks? Like mine kind of sounds like an exhaust leak when im deaccelerating or rigth when I let off the throttle. When does yours tick? pretty loud?

[GPracer2500]

By "tick" I mean the same noises that come from a stock bike, just a little more pronounced. I'm just talking about normal valvetrain clatter--nothing that I would describe as sounding like an exhaust leak.

Intake .05 inches
Exhaust .06 inches

[bh2285]

OK, IM going to work on it now ill let you all know if this fixed anything..

[bh2285]

Ok guys, I adjusted the valve lash but the noise is still there. I took some video so you all can hear what im speaking of..Or at least try too. Another thing that I noticed while working on the bike is the Cam Chain tensioner screw was backed all the way out almost?? I took a picture so you all can see. Could this be causing a problem? Ill post the pics on photobucket but it will not let me do the videos where can I host them at?

[GPracer2500]

Try Putfile.

[bh2285]

http://photobucket.com/albums/y30/bh2285420/Misc%20For%20Sale/?action=view&current=DSC03804.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/y30/bh2285420/Misc%20For%20Sale/?action=view&current=DSC03805.jpg


Theres the 2 pics I was speaking of now ill find out how to host videos...

[bh2285]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by GPracer2500
Try Putfile. [/QUOTE

Thanks Alot

Here are the videos that I took its hard to hear the noise but if you turn the volume up you can hear it after I let off the throttle. I dont know what the noise is...


www.putfile.com/bh2285

[bh2285]

Help me im going riding tomarrow!!

[GPracer2500]

Your cam chain tensioner does not look installed correctly. That bolt should not be sticking out like that--it should be bottomed out. Did you follow the procedure in the service manual for installing the tensioner?

I bet no tension on the cam chain is possibly your problem.

[bh2285]

No I have not messed with it at all..And I dont have a manual. Could someone help me out on how I would go about adjusting it?

[bh2285]

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the Cam Chain tensioner?? See pics above thats what mine looks like now..

[GPracer2500]

After looking at the pictures again: that bolt you've got in there is not the correct fastener. There shouldn't be a bolt there, it should be a truss-head type philips screw. It's not very long so maybe that's why the bolt you've got in there is sticking out so much.

Anyway, this is how you confirm the tensioner operation and re-install it.

1) Remove that bolt and remove the tensioner from the cylinder.

2) When you push on the tensioner shaft (the part that contacts the camchain guide) it should not go into the body of the tensioner.

3) There is a flat-head screwdriver slot inside where that bolt was. Turning it clockwise should retract the tensioner shaft into the body. It should spring out when the screwdriver is released.

4) Retract the tensioner shaft with a screwdriver and install the tensioner into the cyclinder. Tighen the two mounting bolts.

5) Remove the screwdriver that was holding the tensioner in a retracted postition. Reinstall the tensioner lifter plug (the truss-head philips screw that you've got replaced with an M6 bolt).


I don't know if the cam chain is your problem or not. Looking at that bolt were the lifter plug should be makes me wonder how many other things are going on that aren't quite right. :confused: :confused:

[bh2285]

I hope none... but ill try what you said. I have a spare engine that Ill take the right stuff off and put in on the other motor. Ill keep you posted.

[bh2285]

is this all there is too it? would that m6 bolt effect it or do the same thing just stick out?

[GPracer2500]

Originally posted by bh2285
is this all there is too it? would that m6 bolt effect it or do the same thing just stick out?

It's pretty simple huh?

About the bolt, I'm not really sure. I think the screw that goes there is just to plug the hole. The only thing I would check is that the bolt you've got isn't bottoming out on something it shouldn't be touching.

[bh2285]

Ok, well I think that had somehting to do with it because its in more now then it ever was. I cant start in now its a bit to late for that so ill hope if helped and start her tomarrow...Do you think if there was no/not enough tension on chain it would cause some noises? Could you hear the noise on my videos or is it to hard to make out?

[bh2285]

IF the chain was to lose could it couse some nasty noises when I let off the throttle?

[bh2285]

I dont understand this...It still makes the noise can someone help me out please what else could it be?

[Fourwheelerstud]

Originally posted by bh2285
I dont understand this...It still makes the noise can someone help me out please what else could it be?

I had a ticking prob with mine and it was because the compression release on the cam was loose. i sugest you take out your cam and if you can wiggle the compression release, get a new cam.



_________________
yellow 2003 400EX

hot cam
lsr bearing carrier,axcalibur axel, & P-brake block off
pro armor skids
ITP t-9 baja rims w/ HD tires
k&n filter
AC pro peg nerfs

[GPracer2500]

Originally posted by Fourwheelerstud
[B]I had a ticking prob with mine and it was because the compression release on the cam was loose. i sugest you take out your cam and if you can wiggle the compression release, get a new cam.


Hotcams cams don't utilize the auto-decompression system.