clutch problems

[TheFontMaster]

I can pull the clutch lever in all the way, but it doesn't dissengage the clutch at all. The lever is also really easy to pull in. I read some other posts, and it sounds like I should check the clutch basket. Well is there any way that I can take the clutch cover off without having to drain out all the collant? I have tryed adjusting the cable, and had no luck there.

[wilkin250r]

You have to drain the coolant and tranny oil, but you don't have to remove the engine from the frame.

However, if your clutch doesn't disengage at all, then I doubt the problem is in the basket. The only place I can imagine is either the lifter rod, or the cable.

[TheFontMaster]

Well I really don't think it is the cable, it pulls that little lever as far as it can go. What is the lifter rod? and please say that is something that is easily fixed.

[wilkin250r]

Here is how it works.

The clutch cable comes down to the little lever on the left side of the engine, correct?

When the cable pulls that little lever, on the inside of the engine that little lever pushes against the lifter rod. The lifter rod is basically the link between the left side (that little lever), and the right side where your clutch is located.

So when you pull your clutch, that little lever pushes the lifter rod, and the lifter rod pushes the pressure plate outwards, off of the clutch discs. This is what causes your clutch to disengage.

In the attached drawing, the lifter rod is #14 or #15, depending on the year. They aren't the same length, so if you have the wrong year in there, the clutch won't work properly.

It might possibly be the other components that go along with the lifter rod, like the needle bearing, the steel ball, ect. But that's all related to the lifter rod, perhaps I could say lifter rod and assembly.

If it's not the cable or the lifter rod, then you didn't assemble the pressure plate and clutch springs correctly.

[E-ATV-Racing]

On the bottom of that lever is a shaft with a notch in the bottom. A Rod that pushes the clutch open rest in that notch. As you pull the clutch the notch pushes the rod opening the clutch. I have had a problem where the notch was worn and would not push the rod and open the clutch. Hold down on the lever and pull the clutch. If it is now harder to pull (pulling the clutch springs) then that is most likely the problem. Other wise it could be the rod itself. Either problem will require you to removed the clutch cover and outer clutch pressure plate.

[TheFontMaster]

Thanks Wilkin, Looks like I got some work ahead of me.

[TheFontMaster]

O and are there any special tools that I will need to take the clutch apart? And also my motor is an 87 so do you know off hand which diagram I would use? Thanks

[E-ATV-Racing]

No special tools needed. The 87 uses the steel ball so you want # 14 #28 and #11 from the diagram

While you are in there do the update kit.......$70.00

[wilkin250r]

86 is the only year that uses the steel ball, the bottom assembly shown in the diagram.

87 and 88 use the middle diagram, #15, #23, #27, and #29.

89 uses the top assembly with the needle bearing.

In reality, I think they are all interchangable, as long as you use the whole lifter assembly. You could convert your 88 to the steel ball on the 86 if you wanted (but why would you want to?). You would just need the #14 lifter rod,

First off, I wouldn't do buy anything until you figure out the root problem. But if you end up needing to buy parts, I say spring for the complete 89 kit.

Ya thats what i ment by the update kit. It comes as a whole package one part number with everthing you need.The needle bearing set up is the way to go. Comes with new inner hub. Even if everything is good in there, but it sounds like its not i would install the update kit.

[beerock]

NO you dont have to drain the coolant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or drain the oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you can check this by putting the quad on its two side tires and takin the clutch cover off. make sure the bike is clean if you do it......

i have changed clutches and put in the updated lifter rod assembly like that.

there are 5 parts for the update.

there is the 89 lifter 89 rod 89 needle bearing 89 thin washer for needle bearing 89 pressure plate.


wilkin the steel ball was used in 86 ,87-88 had the same " steel ball"set up, 86 had a different steel ball 9/32

[cisco]

Andrew I've had this problem.Make sure your cable is routed through the tab on your frame.My clutch did the same thing and no amount of adjusting or update kits did anything,just proper cable alignment was the fix for this hair pulling problem.Hope this helps.

[TheFontMaster]

Alright so I tore into the clutch this afternoon, and shure enough the lifter rod isn't pushing out the pressure plate. If I put pressure on the lifter rod then the clutch lever feels normal. I should add that it has the 89 clutch update in it, it has the needle berrings with that washer. So the lifter rod is too short to push out the preshure plate. So would I be correct in saying that I should order a lifter rod for an 89?

EDIT: One more thing, I couldn't get the lifter rod out, do I just need some really small needle nose plyers to just pull it out?

[wilkin250r]

If I were you, I would get the lifter rod out (somehow) and measure it. Post it on here, and see if somebody else can give you a measurement from their own.

It might give you an indication if your lifter rod is indeed too short, or if the problem is somewhere else.

[TheFontMaster]

The lifter rod should just pull out right? The quad is in the shop where I go to school so I can't get the measurements untill tuesday.

[E-ATV-Racing]

Pull the clutch in, it should push the rod out far enough to get a hold of it. If the oil was drained you could tip the bike to the side to get it to slide out. Also once you get the rod out pull the clutch lever out and check for wear.

[TheFontMaster]

Ok I got the lifter rod out, it looks like it might be wore down on one side. The length of it is 8 and 1/16 or 8 and 2/16.