Question about Splitting the Cases

[250-R-250]

What All do I need to do to take the cases apart on my R? So far I have taken all the big bolts aroung the outside of the cases out. Also All the Hex bolts that bolt the side cases into the main one.

What I am trying to do is get to the crank. I have the cylinder off, and bites of metal are down there from when the piston cracked. So what now? I dont want to try to split them when I might be missing something. Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated.

[250-R-250]

Come on there are like fifteen people in here. Someone has to know how to do it. Speak up. PLEASE!

[beerock]

you pretty much have to take everything aprt to get to the crank


the right side case should slide off, there are pry points on the case, and usually a rubber or plastic mallet right in back of where the kick starter is and hit it right where the left front motor mount bolt goes

[slick250]

Not to ask a stupid question, but have you removed all the necessary components behind side covers....clutches, basket, counter balancer, flywheel, etc.... If you get to a point you cant find any more bolts or other loose items to take loose........then..you are ready to split cases. It is all very simple though, and like Beerock said, a rubber mallet works great.

[wilkin250r]

Do you not have a manual? It gives you step-by-step instructions.

[250-R-250]

Wilkin check your pm.

[beerock]

there are 3 bolts in back of the flywheel, you HAVE to pull the flywheel to get to them, also theres one bolt on the same side as the flywheel that can be overlooked fairly easy.

[250-R-250]

Hey,

So what your telling me is that I am going to have to take all the gears, trans, shafts, Flywheels, habersnackles, and snorkerdoodles, out of each side of the cases, before I can even get to the crank? What is the first thing I need to remove. I am going to post pics in one sec of what my motor looks like right now.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by 250-R-250
Hey,

So what your telling me is that I am going to have to take all the gears, trans, shafts, Flywheels, habersnackles, and snorkerdoodles, out of each side of the cases, before I can even get to the crank?

No, you won't have to take them out. Once you split the cases, they'll fall out on their own.

Taking them out isn't the obstacle. It's getting them back IN. :devil:

[beerock]

umm, if you keep the left side of the casefacing downward(flywheel side) and tap the right side case the tranny SHOULD stay in place. sometimes though the shift fork shafts pull out and then the forks are not in place.

I just though if something is wedged in the right side case it may not slide off to easy.

[250-R-250]

Here is one Does everything look ok that you can see?
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0056.JPG

[250-R-250]

Ok great, I just wanna see how messed up the crank is. I thought you said that I would have to take the the flywheel off and get the three bolts back there before the cases would split?

Oh, and Wilkin, Thanks for helping out the mental side of the sitiation

[250-R-250]

Ok I need some more help, I am now trying to remove the flywheel, So The big bolt in the center, my crank is supposedly locked up, and I went to try and get the flywheel bolt off, When I try and take it off, my crank spins allittle, there are metal shavings in there so I dont wanna force anything. How do I take that nut off without the crank spinning. Is it even neccessary to take that thing off before splitting the cases? I found the three screws aroung the flywheel that I missed. I took those out with an extension. So Can I seperate now, or do I still have to take the flywheel off.

[wilkin250r]

You have quite a ways to go.

You have the side covers off. On the stator side, you need to remove the flywheel and stator.

On the clutch side, you need to remove the clutch plates, the clutch basket, the clutch inner hub. You also need to remove the counterbalance.

This is why I say you need the manual. It's a fairly complicated process.

[250-R-250]

Yes, its all coming to gether now slowly, I just went to one honda and one yamaha place to find a flywheel holder, They keep talking about a puller, and it didnt look like that would help me at all. Then they caught on to what I was saying and said they use the impact wrench to break the nut. I might just break down and go buy one. I have so many questions, like on the clutch When I take that off, will I have to redo the springs?

[250-R-250]

Hey Wilkin,

I got another question for you. Since this is my first motor to take apart, and it was in a 86 frame, I was assuming that it was a 86 motor. But I took the Clutch off, Not the plates yet, but I pulled the thing from the center, the lifter rod.....and there is no ball, so either this motor is a 88 model or has an updated clutch right?

[BLACKeR]

hehe, if you dont have the manual get it now!!! and if your buying a fly wheel puller be sure not to get the claw type puller. your going to need the thread in type. also an impact wrench is very very good to have. if you dont have a compressor. a good electric one works fine. other wise find someoen who does. itll ebe a lot better.

[wilkin250r]

I have never needed and impact wrench to remove the flywheel nut, but I DO need something to hold the flywheel. I just made my own tool.

The nut is only half the battle, though. Even with the nut off, you might need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off. No big deal, I think I paid $6.00 at my local shop, they had it in stock.

You don't automatically need to replace your clutch springs, but if the engine hasn't been properly kept and maintained, it might not be a bad idea. It's not like thier expensive.

Inspect the clutch basket well. If it's grooved or worn, it will need replacing. If you replace the clutch plates themselves, the stock set really are the best.

[250-R-250]

Thanks alot, I am slowing getting further along, Now with the clutch plates cover off, and the rod pulled out. It seems(according to the manual) that I must have a Clutch update. Now, can someone show me what the heck your talking about using to HOLD the flywheel\crank into place so that I can take the nut off. In the manual they use one that is like a claw almost. I dont see how someone threaded is going to work.

[TheLadiesMan]

i wish i lived by you, i would defently lend you a hand. i would try to come up with something to hold the flywheel if your going to try and do it by hand. if you have an impact i would probably just give it hell. you could also try some vice grips on the crank rod, and put a rag under then so they dont screw up the case at all.

[wilkin250r]

The flywheel HOLDER is not the same as the flywheel PULLER.

Here is the holding tool. See the prongs at the end? They fit into holes on the flywheel, and you hold it to keep the flywheel from rotating while you turn the nut.

The other side (where it is bent) is used for holding the clutch inner hub.

[wilkin250r]

As for the clutch update and cases, I would check the VIN on the cases to determine what year they are. It can be important when ordering replacement parts.

[BLACKeR]

im sure some people wont like it, but ive done it before and it worked. to hold the fly wheel, i have used a pipe wrench and only put it on the metal plate on the outside of the flywheel. i was careful and it didnt damage the plate. you could try that. but be careful you dont want to chew it up. you dont need an impact wrench but it sure makes life easier. if you can use one i would.

[250-R-250]

Ok, So Now, I gotta order some tools, definately, I need something to hold the clutch basket, when I try to loosen the center nut, same thing happin...it spins....Where do I get these tools wilkin, and is this what you use?

[250-R-250]

And I got a Clymers manual on the way:D

[BLACKeR]

if you jam a rag in between the gear on the back of the clutch basket and the other one you can get the clutch basket off without a holder. as you turn the nut the rag gets jammed in there and the basket wont move. you can also make a holder pretty simply out of steel bar stock.

[250-R-250]

Will that not mess anything up?

Oh well, **** it, I am gunna replace most this stuff anyways.

[beerock]

NO dont buy the tools to hold the flywheel, put a sock in the gears like blacker said, it will work great, the only tool i have to take apart a R motor is the flywheel puller, thats all you need.

to get the flywheel bolt off put a sock in between the moving gears, same thing for the main bolt which is underneath the clutch pressure plate

for the nut that holds the inner hub on I used a old metal clutch platewith a small pair of vise grips attached to it, and a sock in the gears you may want to get a tool to hold the inner hub but its hard to hold the inner hub either way.

doing any of this is more then likely going to make the crank mvoe and may even unlodge the pieces under the crank, but you still need to tear it down

[250-R-250]

You might be forgetting that my crank has metal shavings down in it. To get the shock to get caught in the gears the crank would have to spin right? Mine will not spin enless I put at least 120 pounds pressure on it, and even then all it is doing is pulling the shavings further in. I will try to go loosen the flywhell bolt once more. I found no spinnable gears behind the flywheel. They Clutch basket spins now, what is what I wont to stop spinning so I can get the bolt loose. I am going to post a pic showing it.


Edit, sorry, I just read more of your post. and you do know that there are peices in there. Ok, I know for a fact, that I could make the crank budge. But at what expence? Thats what I ask myself.If I force the crank to go, which is alot of force, I could do more damage.

[250-R-250]

This is where I am at now, The basket, spins, Damn that basket actually I just realized its the INNER clutch basket that is spinning the outer one wont because of the crank.
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0065.JPG

[beerock]

ok if you dont have a impact wrench, put your ratchet on the flywheel nut and HIT the end of the ratchet with a HAMMER. it WILL loosen. it will shock the bolt and allow it to move. just make sure your LOOSENING IT!

if you want me to help ht me up on aim ill clear it all up for you.

AIM= beerock69

[Rich250RRacer]

Got yourself an 87-89 piston there. Lookin' to be a newer motor.

[dober250R]

A little hint, those grooves shouldn't be like that on the clutch basket. Time for a hinson or any other billet clutch basket

[250-R-250]

What are the benefits of a Hinson or anyother aftermarket clutch basket?

[250-R-250]

Is that a read spacer, and what would happen if someone used a 88 piston without a spacer on a shortrod.
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0073.JPG http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0076.JPG

[beerock]

no thats the reed cage

[beerock]

Originally posted by Rich250RRacer
Got yourself an 87-89 piston there. Lookin' to be a newer motor.

nope, supposedly he bought the motor form someone and shortly after they put the piston in the piston broke.

86 crank!!!

supposedly this is from what he told me.

[250-R-250]

The guy that I bought it from rebuilt it. I am guessing that he used the 88 piston on the Shortrod crank that is in there. Well, obviously it didnt yeild good results. He was tired of fooling with it, and so I bought the quad from him.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by 250-R-250
Where do I get these tools wilkin, and is this what you use?

You can order them from just about any shop. I know C&D can get them.

And no, this is not the tool I use. That inner hub is connected to the transmission. When it's in gear, you turn the inner hub, and it turns the sprocket.

Likewise, if you HOLD the sprocket, it holds that inner hub. ;)

So, if I have to disassemble a motor, I leave it in the frame, and leave the sprocket and chain connected. I put the quad in gear, hold the rear brake, and loosen that bolt. THEN I pull the engine out of the frame for the rest of the disassembly. :cool:

[slick250]

Any bolts that need to be loosened without an impact, can be accomplished by hand if you wedge a penny in between the gears on the shafts. This will effectively lock it up and will have no side effects due to the fact that the penny is a much softer metal than the hardened steel gears. I have done it this way many times.

As far as the new style piston with 86 crank...this combo will yeild a very low compression ratio. You need to match up the two.

[beerock]

Originally posted by slick250


As far as the new style piston with 86 crank...this combo will yeild a very low compression ratio. You need to match up the two.

yea aside from the piston skirt hitting the crank on downward stroke...............

[slick250]

Originally posted by beerock
yea aside from the piston skirt hitting the crank on downward stroke...............

Is that true? I'm surprised it wouldn't hand-grenade instantly.
I have never tried that, but I could see the possibilities of what you say.

[beerock]

think about it, the 86 rod is 5mm shorter the 87-89wrist pin is 5mm lower.

im thinkin this bike was kicked over, snapped the skirt and the guy gave up and sold it.

250-r-250 did he have a new crank put in when he rebuilt it?

[250-R-250]

I am not sure if its new, I sure will ask him. I dont think it is though, because I asked him if he ever split the cases, and he hadnt, so it must have been someone who owned it before him.

Now, I got the flywheel bolt to move, but at the very end when it is about to clear the threads and come off, it just started spinning and not going anywhere. Has this ever happened to anyone? I am thinking about getting a dremel and cutting the bolt off.

[slick250]

Cut it off...the nut is junk now anyway

[2fittyr]

i just split my case and everythig has to come off, i mean everything

[slick250]

Originally posted by slick250
Cut it off...the nut is junk now anyway

I should tell you though, do not damage the internal threads of the flywheel when you cut the nut off. You will need those threads to remove the flywheel.

[250-R-250]

Hold on, is the fly wheel threaded on there? I thought that once I get the bolt off, I could just get a rubber mallet and tap it out.

[wilkin250r]

Getting the bolt off is only half the battle to pulling the flywheel off. It's not threaded on there, but it's pressed on there GOOD, you need a flywheel puller to get it off. A simple rubber mallet isn't going to do the trick.

[250-R-250]

Well, I might as well, get to ordering the items I am going to need to get this thing opened. Wilkin, would you do me a huge favor and make me a simple list of the tools I will need?

[wilkin250r]

It depends on how far you want to go with it, and how simple you want it.

You can get away without a case splitter tool, but it sure does make things easier. You can get away without the clutch holder tool, but it sure does make things easier.

You WILL need a flywheel puller. The threaded kind are cheaper, and better for the flywheel.

If you plan on changing all the bearings, you'll need a bearing puller.

The bearing puller and case splitter are the most expensive. I think each of them retail over $100. The clutch hub and flywheel holder tool (the picture I posted) is only $30, and the flywheel puller is only like $5.

Then the common tools, like a torque wrench, gasket scraper, ect ect.

[250-R-250]

Ok, I got the bolt off on the Flywheel side, also I have all the fly wheel side parts out.
Now on the clutch side, I am having trouble getting the bolt that holds the basket in out. But. Now that I have everything out of the flywheel side, the cases seem to split a little, can they go all the way? Or must I continue to get everything out of the clutch side?
Like, as is, I can get 1/6 of an inch opening between the cases.

[wilkin250r]

You're going to need to take the clutch-side apart also. I think you can physically separate the cases, but you can't pull the crank off or anything else because it's being held on by components on the clutch-side.

That clutch hub bolt isn't easy. You need a holder (like the one I posted), or an impact wrench. And it's a funny size socket, I think it's like a 30mm or something. You won't find one at a basic automotive store, they usually jump from 28mm to 35mm (I don't know why).

I think Napa can get the exact size you need, or you have to order it.

[matt250r21]

You can make a cheap clutch holding tool with 2 old steel and 2 old fiber plates. Just line everything up in both clutch baskets and drill into the plates carefully then bolt the 4 plates together. This will take care of your clutch. A copper or aluminum washer wedged between the primary gear ( fat small gear on crank) and clutch basket gear will lock everything up so you can losen or tighten the flywheel nut, clutch hub nut, and primary gear bolt. For bearing removal and instal I use an old oven, heat the bare cases to 350 for 15 minutes most of the bearings will fall out or tap out pretty easy. To instal heat the cases and frezze the bearings over night, they wil fall right in with no pounding, but you have to work super fast or the bearings will normalize from the case heat. To split the cases use a soft hammer (rubber or plastic) and protect the crank and tranny output shaft w/ a small piece of wood. Alternate blows, hit the crank on the clutch side then the tranny and so on and so forth. The only real hard part to remove is the flywheel side main crank bearing. This is a press fit, instal you can freeze the crank and slightly heat the bearing. But to get the old bearing off the crank you need a press or a 2 piece bearing puller. R motor are super easy to work on if the are not abused. One more thing, the only other real tool you need is a GOOD threaded flywheel puller.

[250-R-250]

Thanks alot for your reply. Just today, I tried getting the bolt off on the clutch side(Holding clutch basket on). I broke 3 fins on the clutch basket like an idiot. I wish I would have seen this sooner. I ll try that tommarrow. But before I do I am going to see if I can have the honda dealership can remove the bolt. I even used an impact wrench and the damn thing wont come loose.This is a first so I expect to make mistakes. I am going to take a picture because there is something that I am allittle confused on.

[TampaBoy813]

the only way to learn is to try your self...just make sure you learn as you go..and next time will only cost you half the money...

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by matt250r21
You can make a cheap clutch holding tool with 2 old steel and 2 old fiber plates. Just line everything up in both clutch baskets and drill into the plates carefully then bolt the 4 plates together.

EXCELLENT IDEA!!!


Dang, why didn't I think of that.

[250-R-250]

Ok, I finally got it off, and the cases are split!!!The honda shop did it for no charge, nice people. Anyways, there are some shavings in the motor. I am going to need as much help as I can get now. The crank just came out really easy.Basically fell out. What do I look for now?

[250-R-250]

Let me be more specific. The crank looks decent to me, but I kinda mawed one end getting a bolt off. Some bearings look good. But its so questionable and I have never done this before. I also broke the clutch basket, and on the flywheel side, there is this mount with three screws for I for get what, I broke that too.

What all should I do now that I got them split? Should I go ahead and do all the bearings? How much would that cost. The trans is in excellent shape, one gear has a chip in one tooth. BTW I keep most of it together during the splitting.

I am really trying to figure out what to do now. I am going to need a new topend, clutch basket, mount thing on the flywheel side. and most likely a crank. I will show pics soon.I also want to try and polish the cases, so I guess I am going to have to take the trans out of the left side case, right?

[250-R-250]

Also what are some mods that I should do while I have the cases split?

[TampaBoy813]

Originally posted by 250-R-250
Also what are some mods that I should do while I have the cases split? CT350 Kit....

[250-R-250]

I wish I had the money, but thats never going to happen.

BTW, if anyone has a crank, topend, clutch basket let me know.

[wilkin250r]

To do it perfect costs a lot of money, and you may not have that much.

However, you should at least spend a little, and do it well. No sense in going through all this work just to do it half-a**ed.

The crank may look fine, but you don't know exactly what you're looking for. At a bare minimum, send the crank to a professional to be rebuilt, it should be about $150. The threads may be okay if they are cleaned up, there may still be enough metal for a nut to hold on to. Your crank shop can tell you for certain. Otherwise, you're looking at buying a new crank.

All bearings should be replaced. They are the wear items. It would be absurd to go put it all back together, and then have it fail in a few months simply because you were too cheap to spring for a $10 bearing.

[TheFontMaster]

Like wilkin said, replace every berring in the motor. I would replace the transmission gear that you said had a chip in it, just incase. Another thing you might want to look into is getting the cases machined for a big bore top end. That way if a couple years down the road you can afford a 330, or bigger motor, the cases are all ready, and you won't need to go through the trouble of splitting the cases again. And I wouldn't polish the cases, polishing loses it's shine easily, and the cases have many tight and hard to reach spots. I would just send them out to get powdercoated.

[250-R-250]

Thanks alot, I will look into replacing all the bearings. Where is a good place to order them from? I would really like to get a whole package or kit if that is made. Also, Wilkin, I am going to take a picture of the gear, would you replace it? 1 chip in the tooth doesnt seem like all that big of a problem. The part I broke is the CB Bearing holder. Its not too bad and I am an excellent welder, would it be ok to weld this part, or should I once again buy a new one.

We are going to have fun when reassembling:D

Also font, on the cases, I was thinking of having them polished by me of course, then getting pappy to powdercoat a clear flake of some sort. I kinda took this idea from beerock

[wilkin250r]

I'd replace anything with a chip in it, regardless of how small.

Did you break the CB bearing that holds the pulse trigger? How did it break?

[250-R-250]

I think that is what it is. I thought it needed to come out so I pulled on one of the places where you screw it in and part of it broke off. I figured it was already weak or something.It almost looks like a star with 3 points coming out, at each point would be a screw hole. Its on the flywheel side.

[250-R-250]

Ok, I have decided that I need to just go ahead and take everything out of the cases. I am doing this so that I can check everybearing in the motor. So far, I am sure that I will need to replace the crank bearings. EVERY single other bearing spins with no sounds, no movements either.

Right now I have gotten the main shaft out(LARGEST ONE). Now I cant figure out how to get the shift fork off the drum on one of the shafts. Also, I dont understand how to get the shift drum out. It seams like it is on both sides of the case? I need some direction on this. Thanks alot

[250-R-250]

Alright I finally got my camera working, I am going to take a picture of the motor as it sits right now. I am going to take some closeups of the parts I am having troubles with, also the questionable parts such as the crank, and another piece that I don't think is right.

[250-R-250]

Here is how it sits right now, One case isnt there in the pic.http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0665.JPG

[250-R-250]

Here is the Part that I broke in the left corner,
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0663.JPG

[250-R-250]

Here is a good pic of the case.

http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0664.JPG

[250-R-250]

Ok, now I need to know where to go from here. I have checked all the bearings out. The only once that need replacing are the crank bearings, and the CB bearing.

[250-R-250]

bump

[wilkin250r]

I'd replace the CB bearing holder. If that breaks again under load, you'll have a mess. By definition, it is an unbalanced rotating mass, if it comes loose, it will destroy itself, probably some gears on the clutch side, throw shrapnel into the flywheel, and eventually vibrate enough to crack the cases.

The problem is, if it DOES break, it won't stop the engine. The engine will keep running, and tear itself apart. If you catch it right away, you might be safe, but if you're exhaust is pushing near 100db, you may not even hear it. You could end up with $800 damage within 20 seconds, all because you wanted to save $60.

[250-R-250]

Thanks wilkin, I am going to take that advice. Those pics are how the motor is now. How do I take the shift drum out?

[250-R-250]

Bump, I have a surprise:) When I thought I had no hope for a big bore, things seem to turn:eek2:

LOL, but seriously, I gotta get the crank rollin before that.

Shift drum help, please:cool:

[250-R-250]

Hi, I found this pic, and the guy who took it is selling the crank. He says that the main bearing on the crank still needs to be pulled off. Now, On the crank that I took out of my motor, the bearings are still in the cases. None of the crank bearings came out on the crankshaft.So is removing it with the bearing on it, or removing it where they both stay in the cases correct?

Second, I might be looking at this crank for a replacement....its used, but only for one season. Also, during installation, should the bearings be pressed onto the crank, or pressed into the crank cases? Cases from what I thought I understood.


http://i14.ebayimg.com/05/i/06/89/66/ba_1.JPG

[beerock]

do not buy a used crank or a rebuilt crank, buy a new oem crank.


the shift drum bolt is suppose to be taken off while the cases are together, dumb *** honda shop...


if you buy a new counter balancer holder buy a hinson billit one, the stock holder will always break, they are usually a tell tale sign of the CB bearing(on the clutch side) being worn out and time for a rebuild.

every bearing needs to be replaced so you have a good starting point. OR you could just go buy two new cases with bearings and seals already installed for around 220 a case half, then all you need is a crank. that is honestly the best way to go and fastst(if they still sell cases) and then buying a set of 89 main bearings and replacing them with the ones that come in the case(which have one less ball in the 86 cases)



the only bearings you dont need to replace are the clutch actuator bearings(where the clutch cable connects to and shaft goes down the case side) or the needle bearing on the main shaft where the clutch basket lies on, they usually have a decent amount of play even when new and fool alot of people into thinking there worn ;)(the needle bearings bottom left on your first pic posted.)


east coast atv sells the clutch cover side counter balancer bearing.

i have a feeling the counter balancer holder on the stator cover side was already cracked and it was a tell tale sign that your clutch cover side counter balancer bearing is bad...


buy a hinson basket, and buy a oem inner hub... i dont think the inner hubs wear to much and may be a bit of over kill...



the best clutch holder tool which is the easiets to make is a old pressure plate with a pair of vise grips clamped down on the plate very hard but whoever had that idea of the clutch lock up its a great idea. except the copper penny part, use some cloth to bind the gears, less force on a single tooth is involved...

good luck keep us updated

[250-R-250]

Beerock thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

Ok, So Will I have to put the cases back together, as well as all the gears and shift shafts to get the shift drum out? My manual doesnt show anything about the shift drum.

Another question. Bee, you told me to buy a oem crank from the begginning. Which was about 2 months ago,I think. Anyways, Oem cranks arent cheap. Especially new. Would I be getting the same quality, and reliability with a used crank that I just have rebuilt by well known shop?

[beerock]

if you cant afford the 50-75 dollars more to buy a new crank(usually around 150 for a rebuild.) then i dont understand why you have a R(j/k)

your R will only be as good to you as you are to it. would you buy a rebuilt arm for your body or would you want an original replacement? ;p

im sure people will disagree with me on this, but I am very weary of rebuilt cranks.

I also wont buy any other crank but a oem honda. the weisco cranks scare me, ive heard horror stories, they either blow right away or run for a long time like an oem i dont like to gamble with my motors.

they may have possibly bent your shift forks that shift drum usually stays in the left case on dissassembly.

also the mroe you buy from the honda dealer the more you can get prices cut.


dont put the cases back together that shift drum bolt needs an extended 12mm? or 14mm socket forget which one i think its 12.
if you wrap the shift drum in cloth put it in a vise or use a large pair of vise grips(with the cloth wrapped around the drum and loosen the shift drum bolt.

that shift drum is suppse to be in the left side case with the tranny and al the forks and fork pins when assembly is done that why i said the honda dealer was a bunch of dumb asses because they did not split your cases right.

i think you should take a deep breath and slow down your rebuild before you end up breaking something more expensive then a clutch basket...l

taking the motor apart is easy, putting it back together and having it shift properly upon reassembly is another story, just use your camera and we can help you....:macho

[250-R-250]

LOL, that dumbass is me. I wont take it to a dealer enless I have too. I knew I would make mistakes, just didnt know when or on what. Ill try that vise grip idea, and maybe I ll just save for an oem crank. I ll keep taking pics as well.

[250-R-250]

Ok, I have an update, and its going to scare some people. The whole problem was that the crank was stuck, this is why I tore the motor apart. Anyways, I its all apart and I cleaned the cases of any shavings. I think the crank bearings and the CB bearings are the only things that need replaced. So that will be done in a week. The crank I think is good, I just need to run a die over the threads. Anyone know where and what kind of die I need. I really dont know how to do it, but it was suggested to me.

So know I am going to try and reassemble the transmission. Its all together escept for 2 gears. Is there anyway you guys could help me with that? If I told you the number of teeth and took pics?

edit: It doesnt suprise me the crank is still good. He said it jammed when he was kicking it over?

Thanks

[beerock]

Originally posted by 250-R-250
Ok, I have an update, and its going to scare some people. The whole problem was that the crank was stuck, this is why I tore the motor apart. Anyways, I its all apart and I cleaned the cases of any shavings. I think the crank bearings and the CB bearings are the only things that need replaced. So that will be done in a week. The crank I think is good, I just need to run a die over the threads. Anyone know where and what kind of die I need. I really dont know how to do it, but it was suggested to me.

So know I am going to try and reassemble the transmission. Its all together escept for 2 gears. Is there anyway you guys could help me with that? If I told you the number of teeth and took pics?

edit: It doesnt suprise me the crank is still good. He said it jammed when he was kicking it over?

Thanks

thats EXACTLY what i said a couple pages ago if that is true and you havent tried kicking it over its pretty safe to say the crank is in good shape as long as it WAS new before trying to start it

i have worked with MASHED 250r cranks and rethreaded the crank with a snap on die matched to the thread on the crank. we even cut some of the crank off so you have a couple ways to fix your problem

i would def replaced the wrist pin bearing piston etc. if your lucky you may be able to hone the cylinder if it was a fresh bore and put in a new piston.

also, YOU NEED a BIBLE MY BROTHER

the original honda service manual or clymers but i believe in the oem

[250-R-250]

Glory Glory, some relief in the words you just said. Bee, I have the original honda manuel, I guess I should get a clymers as well.

I am going to try and get some pics of the trans and the threads. Do you have both manuals? Which one goes into the most detail on the trans.

[250-R-250]

Basically I need to get these gears sorted. Which ones are for the trans, and which ones are not. Right now I am focusing on getting the shafts completed and back in order. If any one even knows how to do this, what order of gears should come next on the shafts.

Looking from left to right here are the
number of teeth:
GEAR ONE-44
GEAR TWO-36
GEAR THREE-33
GEAR FOUR-25
GEAR FIVE-23
GEAR SIX-37
GEAR SEVEN-16
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0689.JPG

[250-R-250]

We will call this SHAFT ONE, this is how it sits right now.
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0691.JPG

[250-R-250]

This will be called SHAFT TWO, and this is how it sits now.
http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0692.JPG

[beerock]

no, the first shaft is the MAIN SHAFT the second shaft is the COUNTER SHAFT


i have the honda manual turn to page 8-0

page 8-4 shows tranny together on bottom 8-5 shows the gears and the year differences

looks liek you have a 87+ tranny the ratios for 5th and 6th were clsoer matched then the 86 so the drop in rpms isnt as low when shifting from 4th to 5th

i run a hybrid tranny, 88 1st to 4th and 86 5th and 6th on counter and main shaft

read up

[250-R-250]

AH, Bee I just looked and it does in fact have all the information I am looking for.BTW ON 8-5, Under the Installation part. There is a box with a picture. Whats that all about?

[250-R-250]

Pics of the chip in the piston.

http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0706.JPG

[250-R-250]

Carb I ll be using when it RUNS!:mad:

http://usera.imagecave.com/Kane/DSCF0708.JPG