mx 250

[250rider1]

ok i got about 700 dollars to spend and i want to race mx next season. its an 88 with an fmf sst pipe, k+n filter with outerwears, mild port job, t9 pro series wheels w/ holeshot tires, sidewinder sprockets, galfer rear rotor and brake pads, and stuff like plastics,etc. ill be runnin in the c class and i want my machine to be able to run w/ the 450's. i think as a rider i will be able to keep up. what should be my next thing to add.

[Tom TRX250R]

It sounds like you have a good machine to work with, I would spend the money on a pair of Elka front shocks and rebuild your rear stock shock. That way you can handle the track better and will make you faster.

[250rider1]

i just had the back shock rebuilt last year. my a arms are stock. should i replace those before buying the new shocks.

[beerock]

you could go get a nice Keihn38mm A/S PWK or a 39mm PWK
and a nice reed cage like a 98 cr250 rad valve . a NICE +4 axle after that you should worry about the front end.

before you run out and buy shocks you should think about +2 or +3 LT A-arms and LT shocks if your gonna start racing.

so save up a bit more and do it the wise way. If you end up buying shocks for your stock arms then if you ever do get wider a-arms and decide to go LT your gonna have to buy new LT shocks as well. if you get standard shock length +2 or +3 arms you will have to send your shocks out to be revalved and resprung

[250rider1]

what kind of arms would you recomend. ive looked at lonestar but i thought i would take opinions before buying. also i forgot to ask. what gearing would be good for mx?

[BLACKeR]

i would go on ebay and find a nice set of standard travel arms and shocks. you can get very good used standard travel set ups for an excellent price. for 700 you could get a complete front end set up and probly an axle too. width and suspention upgrades are going to help you the most.

[beerock]

Originally posted by 250rider1
what kind of arms would you recomend. ive looked at lonestar but i thought i would take opinions before buying. also i forgot to ask. what gearing would be good for mx?

you need a axle first before you think about the front

[250-R-250]

Idk, if I had to, I would get the front done before the extended rear axle. If your rear is wider then the front it dont handel very good. Some people prefer the front to be wider by an inch sometimes(OPINION's VARY). If I were you I would find a complete front end, and a axle for that kinda $ you could get both if you got used parts.

[blasta17]

Originally posted by beerock
you need a axle first before you think about the front i disagree, the front should be wider than the back

[250rider1]

i might be able to do a little bit of both because of christmas coming up. what companies would you guys recomend? and how much wider should i go.

[250-R-250]

I think you would be best off, going with a +2 Standard travel, and a 2+4 axle. Too be honest if I were you I would stay with the standerd companies, houser, elka, or works if your in a pinch, lonestar, and so on. Look for some good package deals, I know that you can get both front and rear done for what you have.

[beerock]

ive ridden my old R with my +4 axle on stock width with a stock front end and a +2 front end. the bike did not handle very good.
lets take a left turn berm for example, the bike would want to lift up on the left front end because the axle wasnt wide enough to accomodate the +2 front end and when I had stock arms it was well, stock, but widening the axle made it much more stable. Also, the wider axle gives you the ability to go through whoops a bit faster because of the extra stability in the rear.

Its start to act like a backwards trike with a wide front end and skinnier axle.

thats why i feel you need an axle first before you get arms because im not just thinking its better I have felt it first hand

also, how many race cars or race trucks do you see out with wider front ends then rear? you dont.

if your able to get all of it at once thats great if not save up for a front end and shocks and get the axle.

If you envision yourself moving up in classes and getting kind of serious you really should go for a LT front end and LT shocks.

I first bought a +2 front end and rebuilt my shocks for the +2 arms. then i ended up going with LT and had to buy everything again I spent alot of cash. if you want to save money in the long run hold out for a LT front end.

this is just my opinion but i have tried alot fo different setups and my suggestions are based on testing not just someone telling you they think you should do this.

[punker69q]

Originally posted by beerock


also, how many race cars or race trucks do you see out with wider front ends then rear? you dont.

Actually you will see many of that. Almost every rwd cars that road race are wider in the front. It give the external rear tire better traction when cornering, just like a shortened swingarm do.

But I agree with you, axle first, because the axle is rigid and will help to "hold" tha quad better when cornering

[BLACKeR]

a stock width front with a +4 axle will push like a b itch in corners. you could make it work OK if you had an adjustable axle and only ran it at +2 till you got the front taken care of. but for $700 if your smart you should be able to do it all. i wont get into the long travel vs standard travel arguement. check ebay or the for sale section. you should be able to get set up for 700

[250r4life]

beerock-
can you tell me why you guys like the cr rad valve as opposed to the trx. i have the cr and i hated how it was a pain to get my carb and boot to line up, so i ditched it for the trx. its sitting in my garage. so whats supposed to be the advantage of the cr?

[beerock]

the OEM cr reedcage and the cr250 rad valve are very crisp and can be ported more i believe then the trx. I have always run a reed spacer with my rad valve but the oem cr250 reed cage I had is supposedly a great cage as well i didnt use a reed spacer with it and never had issues

what kind of line up issues did you have? there easy to bolt up.

[250r4life]

the rc rad valve angles more to the side, so the left of the carb would want to come out and it was just a pain in the butt every time to get the boot from the rad valve, the carb, adn the boot from the filter to all line up properly and sit on the carb right.