400ex rear brakes

[wpbsmoka]

I know nothing about brakes except my old ones were gone. Put new pads on which seemed simple, removed parking brake and added block off plate. After wedging the brakes back on, it seems they are having pressure applied. haven't gotten as far as bleeding them, which I don't know anything about. I mean these suckers are too thick or something. Any help please!

[Rip_Tear]

are you sure you got the right ones? sure they are installed right? There are adjustments for the rear brake, try loosening it off, it's right off the foot lever.

[wboy62417]

make sure the plate that mounts to the caliper holder moves because if it dont there is your problem the plate that it is mounted on is made to slide back and forth

You mite have to much brake fluid in it

to bleed is simple there is a lil valve on your caliper use a wrench to open it slowly push the brake pedle all the way down now close the valve with the pedle still pressed after closed let up repeat that over and over again untill you dont have any air bubbles coming out you will have to pump the pedal(while closed) to build up some pressure to push the air out

[sickmojave]

Originally posted by wpbsmoka
and added block off plate.


some block off plates don't work so great.

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53841

[parkers30]

I had to make a spacer for my block off to run some of the cheap aftermarket pads

[huffdaddy_400EX]

Sounds like the block-off plate. I bought a Tusk from Rocky Mountain ATV and after installation my rear wheels would not turn. If I losen the bolts and let it sort of hang it was fine. I had to drill out a small "notch" in the plate and everything was fine after that.

If you remove or losen the plate do you still have the problem?

[wpbsmoka]

Even with the plate off it is still creating the same amount of friction. Where the inner pad is placed, I guess its a circular deal that pushes out to stop(verifying my statement about knowing nothing, just broke$). It is sticking out very slightly, which seems if it were flush it would not be a problem. It will not go in at all. And I was also assuming that this pin deal that the plate is covering may have something to do with it. Does not budge either. Should I bleed the lines and get it all bolted back on without the pads present? Appreciate everyones assistance.

[JOEX]

Originally posted by wpbsmoka
Even with the plate off it is still creating the same amount of friction. Where the inner pad is placed, I guess its a circular deal that pushes out to stop(verifying my statement about knowing nothing, just broke$). It is sticking out very slightly, which seems if it were flush it would not be a problem. It will not go in at all. And I was also assuming that this pin deal that the plate is covering may have something to do with it. Does not budge either. Should I bleed the lines and get it all bolted back on without the pads present? Appreciate everyones assistance.
If i'm reading this correctly that 'circular deal' is the caliper piston, not to be confused with the piston in the motor:p You could try pushing it back with a c-clamp then reassemble.

[daredevilearth]

how do you move the one plate so there is more room for the brake pad and rotor is it the nut because it seems like it doesnt turn

[wboy62417]

it should slide if it dont it is got dirt or something in the pegs and will be a lil tough to free up try some wd-40 maybe??

[Crazy Diamond]

Take the caliper off the rotor. (DO NOT remove it from the quad tho.) Take off the reservoir cap. Then use a c clamp and push the piston in. It will go in easier with the cap off. Then put the brakes on and try it then. It should go on the rotor now. When you get it on then pump the brake until it tightens on the rotor. Then you could try bleeding it. If it is still tight. You bought the cheap aftermarket pads mentioned earlier. If they are organic (carbon) pads and not sintered they will wear down after a quick ride enough to free up. (I did this)! Or try using a fine sandpaper and sanding each pad slightly on a flat surface and that should also take them down a bit to fit. Hope this helps!!!

[daredevilearth]

it wont even fit on the rotor with the piston pushed in with the c clamp it seems like the metal plate needs to move over towards the piston side then there will be room

[daredevilearth]

which way will that nut loosen up is it away or towards based on the picture

[wboy62417]

im telling you It will slide its suppost to as the pads wear i mite have dirt in it had the same problem with one of my front calipers

[wpbsmoka]

Alright so I ended up taking the whole quad in and getting it done. Said the brake caliper needed to be rebuilt or something. I believe thats the 38.50 charged for 1 Piston Set, 75 labor. It works, but it doesn't lock up or anything. I made the mistake of opening it up right away and found out the hard way. Is there a way I can set it up to apply more pressure, or does this have something to do with bleeding the lines. Thanks for the responses.

[wboy62417]

Wow labor got ya i payed 100 dollars for a NEW caliper because my first one was shot but to your question i think if you bleed them it will help but your mechanic should have done that for you (for as much labor he charged you)

how far does your brake pedal go down??

[wpbsmoka]

Yea you have to pay to make up for your ignorance. Plus it's Palm Beach so.... Anyway, that is with the brake being fully applied(mashed). It seems to go down as far as it used to, just not the same response. Going to attempt to bleed here in the next day or two.

[wboy62417]

ok keep us posted we will go from there if that doesnt fix it im sure one of us can help you

[wpbsmoka]

Alright well hold the phone on everything. Went riding today and,lol, I burnt my rear brakeline pretty much in half with my aftermarket exhaust. I am assuming the dealership did this since the exhaust had been installed for months.

[wpbsmoka]

Just an update. It was there fall and they fixed with no hassle. Besides a 10 day wait because of the part.