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Pappy
12-13-2005, 07:49 PM
I found this article and I wanted to share it for anyone think of getting into this hobby, or was just generally interested in the work.

Enjoy

Article (http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/projects/powder.pdf)


Its basically a quick assertion, but it should give someone a basic idea of what is involved. I may have missed it, but I saw no where in the article where the part was washed and pre treated but if anyone needs info on that I can steer you in the right direction.

300exOH
12-13-2005, 10:14 PM
Great article find pappy. I have been thinking about doing this for a while and I think this info covers all the questions I had. It does mention cleaning the parts in step 2 I believe but it is a bit vague.

bad01300ex
12-14-2005, 01:16 PM
very infomative article

ive been thinkin about doin some pc myself, do you know anything about the Eastwoodco guns? Anygood? what suggestions would you have?

Thanks

400exstud
12-14-2005, 04:34 PM
About the HotCoat gun. I have one comming for christmas. I'll tell you how it is when I get to use it.

Pappy
12-14-2005, 08:21 PM
out of all the $150 and under hobby guns, the eastwood model preforms the best.

cb450r
12-14-2005, 10:14 PM
Pappy great link! Lots of good info there.

However i did notice a couple of things in that write up about "pre heating" the parts before coating them/ to obtain better coverage into the nooks and crannies of the part you are coating.
I know that atv frames have a lot of these :D
If this is the case that would mean on a trans. colored part you would be in the oven no less then 3 times:ermm: if you clear after color then you have 4 trips to the oven. This seems like
1. ALOT of work!
2. ALOT of heat stress!?

What are your thoughts on this or do you pratice another method?
Also what kind of media are you using? Is it unaffected by UV?


Regardless I will be getting ahold of you via C&D Racing (I live close by)to ship and Trans coat some goodies of mine in the near future
:D I know that you know your stuff and by looking at the pics you post i am not at all worried about quality!

Pappy
12-15-2005, 06:51 PM
preheating does a few things, and metal stress with the materials used in atv construction is almost irrelevent with regards to the relatively low temps and short cure times we use.


usually, once i have a stripped frame, i do the following

1) check for cracks and make any repairs

2) plug all bolt holes and tape off any areas i do not want powder

3) attach hangers to the frame.

at this point, i may apply a metal treatment and wash depending on the condition of the frame. after i am done all prep work, the frame is outgassed at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes then its removed and allowed to cool until working temps are at 100 degrees. this aids in powder reaching those hard to get areas.

then she goes back in the oven and once it reaches the recommended cure temp, it is timed out for its cycle. if its a chrome base for a trans color, once the time has passed the frame is removed and allowed to cool to a good working temp then trans colors are applied and the whole process starts over.


on small parts, especially ones that are really oily, a good preheating will help bring any trapped oils out. sometimes this can take 2 or 3 cycles but usually that is only with cast metal. after washing and pre treatment, prep and powder can take place.

its an easy process for the most part, dont let the extra steps scare ya! they are indeed fundemental for doing a good job.

cb450r
12-15-2005, 09:44 PM
Thanks for the info Pappy!!
I am really impressed by your work and like i stated above i have NO worries about sending you my business!

You will hear from me in the near future about what i need to have done:D

Thanks again,Steve

malibuj
12-16-2005, 09:44 AM
Thanks Pappy. I have an Eastwood Hotcoat system I've been waiting to try out. Is it essential to use an aluminum oxide abrasive? I understand the "tooth" it provides. I have a downdraft cabinet at work that we use glass beads in. Would it provide enough "tooth" in your opinion?

Pappy
12-16-2005, 07:29 PM
yes you can use glass bead.

if your doing small parts, after glass beading take a wire wheel over them. then once you have removed all the color left by glass beading, do it again! this will eliminate alot of stripping issues with regards to small particles that are often missed.

malibuj
12-16-2005, 08:33 PM
Sounds good. Thanks for the tip!:D