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skemp
06-28-2002, 12:10 AM
I have gotten my Hot Cam Stage 2 finally, and I have several questions, as the "tips" Hot Cams provide are unclear. It says something about MAYBE not being able to reuse the decompressor on a 400EX. So do I take out the decompressor or leave it in?? Also, it says that because of the decompressor, the RH exhaust valve needs to be adjusted in a special way. It says the procedure is in the manual, and I have a Honda OEM service manual, and it doesn't say anything special about valve adjustment on Mr. RH Exhaust Valve. Also, how do I get the camshaft flange off the camshaft? Thanks a lot if you can answer my questions!

Ketch
06-28-2002, 01:21 AM
I did this last week end, to get the decompressor a part i used a gear puller but be very careful i pulled on the decompressor lobe
so you don't damage the flange, to get it back together i used a press. Do everthing else just like the book says and you will not have any problems. Mine fired right up and now i have to get the jetting dialed that's this weekend. And i didn't reassembly the cam with the decompressor assembly on it. And it starts no problem.:cool:

VegasEx'r
06-28-2002, 01:23 AM
I just got mine in tonight. Their instructions do leave a little to be desired (they are the same instructions that my friend got w/ his stage 1 Raptor cam). Leave the decompression off. I talked to Kolby @ C&D Racing & he said that so long as the battery is in good condition, it will fire right up. I found that to be the case, although I did have to keep the RPM's up longer & get it a little warmer to keep if from stalling (that's probably more related to me having no choke though, or I might need to up the pilot, dunno yet, time will tell). I must have missed the part about the RH exhaust adjustment. I did it the same as normal, although they recommend a little looser clearance (.015mm in, .020mm ex), which is what I used. Everything sound fine, no valve click or anything. Again, time will tell. To get the flange off & onto the new cam, you will need a press. I took mine into the mechanical shop where I work & did it there. Any auto repair, ATV or machine shop should have the press you need.

VegasEx'r
06-28-2002, 01:24 AM
One more thing about the decompressor. Dont forget to pull the little dowel thing & spring out of the head. You should see them once you pull out the cam, they sit on the RH side of the head. I had to use a small pair of needle nose pliers to get the spring out.

beyer05
06-28-2002, 04:06 AM
How do you know if the decompressor is suppose to come out? I am getting ready to install a cam, and am not sure if it is suppose to come out. I am buying the cam used, so i am sure there are no instructions. It is supposed to be a sparks X-6.

JhallettEX
06-28-2002, 07:42 AM
Vegas, I just wanted to verify your vavle clearance specs. My cam card says .15mm and .20mm, it might have been a typo but in yor post you put down .015 and .020mm. Let us know. How does it run? Thanks

skemp
06-28-2002, 12:52 PM
So I take out the decompressor, how about the reverse decompressor? I leave in the one-way clutch, right?

Also, can I just use a punch and c-clamp to get the valve seals out? I would use the c-clamp to compress the springs, and the punch to get the old seals out. This is harder than I thought it would be. The cam definitely isn't a "drop-in" cam. Oh well, this will occupy me while I wait for my cylinder to get back from boring.

MIKE400EX
06-28-2002, 01:22 PM
JHALLETT, .15mm and .20mm sounds correct (.006" & .008"). .015mm and .020mm is too tight at less than .001" each.

VegasEx'r
06-28-2002, 02:33 PM
Originally posted by MIKE400EX
JHALLETT, .15mm and .20mm sounds correct (.006" & .008"). .015mm and .020mm is too tight at less than .001" each.

I was thinking the same thing as what Mike said. I must have been thinking in inches & typing in millimeters (if that makes any sense). I'll double check tonight when I get home, but I am pretty sure it is .15mm & .20mm.

Wired
06-28-2002, 02:52 PM
hey skemp, sounds like i should tear into them seals if its a b!tch... my engine is already apart but the kit didnt come yet but i guess it would give me something to do right now. reason im in right now is because i was spraying round up around all the buildings on the farm site here and i caught a backdraft of spray right to the face. that crap is not good for the skin! lol

VegasEx'r
06-28-2002, 04:10 PM
You guys who are changing your valve seals, check at a local auto parts store in their loan/rent-a-tool section. They may have a valve spring compressor that'll make the job much easier.

skemp
06-28-2002, 05:39 PM
Well, I got the valve seals out. I haven't put the new ones in yet, but I think I am going to try to get a spring compressor for that because it was pretty difficult to get the springs off with a c-clamp.

I still need to know if I put the reverse decompressor or one-way clutch back on. It doesn't appear that I can put the decompressor, reverse decompressor, or the clutch back on because there are no holes in the new cam for the retaining pins.

400exRacerX
06-28-2002, 06:13 PM
If your using a regular c-clamp be careful dude. It works but you can hurt yourself easily. And when you go to put the new valve seals on coat them with engine oil before you snap them onto the guides.

06-28-2002, 06:24 PM
Yea, be very careful with c-clampes, i have got to witness what happens when they jump out, make a nice dent in the wall :eek:

skemp
06-28-2002, 06:52 PM
I got lucky using the c-clamp. Only one of the cotters shot out, but it bounced off the wall and right back onto the table where I was working.


Anybody know if I put the one-way clutch or reverse decompressor on?? :D

JhallettEX
06-28-2002, 07:43 PM
Dont put any of the decompresssor back on, also make sure you take the plunger and spring out of the head, it is a little cylinder that is under the cam on the back sprocket side, look in your manual it will show were it is. Good luck

06-28-2002, 10:17 PM
Anybody know if I put the one-way clutch or reverse decompressor on??

There are no holes drilled into the hotcam for the decomp so leave it off.


I must have missed the part about the RH exhaust adjustment. I did it the same as normal, although they recommend a little looser clearance (.015mm in, .020mm ex), which is what I used. Everything sound fine, no valve click or anything.

I had set my up at the oem spec but just a tad looser on the feeler guage and it sounds like it did before.
Yea, be very careful with c-clampes, i have got to witness what happens when they jump out, make a nice dent in the wall
Dont try this at home as your face or eye could replace the wall and that would $uck.

skemp
06-28-2002, 11:50 PM
Alright guys, thanks. You have been a big help. Now I just need the cylinder and I can get this thing broken in.