How to break in your motor

[beerock]

This is for everyone trying to figure out what they really need to do to break there motor in correctly.
There are plenty of variances to this, there are also people that will say as soon as its built you can scream the motor right away, I dont believe in this procedure, you can glaze your bore doing that and score a piston. I know theres some guy on the internet with a site about running your motor hard right after being built. LOL


first do a compression test, if its over 185 psi you will need to run race gas. MY SUGESTION is to run AMSOIL dominator oil at 50:1 This is the best oil on the market in my opinion. If you want to run another brand thats great theres tons of good oils out there. Whatever oil you run make sure you consistantly mix it properly and try not to use other brand oils.(unless your in a pinch.

once you figure out your compression psi. mix the oil and fill your tank. dont eye up the oil use a ratio rite or use a maxima pre mix(what i use its great)

start it up and blip the throttle until the cylinder gets warm DONT ride it or put it in gear. Once the cylinder is warm to the touch shut her off and let it cool completely. do this 3 times.......

then ride it varying the throttle from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle then let it cool completely do this 3 times!!

after this ride it from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle then let it cool completely do this 3 times!!!

after that ride it from 1/4 to WOT, DO NOT HOLD IT WOT just constantly roll the throttle on and off, no abrupt throttle. do this 3 times with a cooling cycle in between each time.

after this you should be done with your tank of gas, fill it up and ride it gently for the next gas tank keep rolling the throttle on and off. after the second tank LET HER RIP!!!!!!!!!!

[QuadRacer041]

thats tioo much work for me.
start it up let it run for a minute.
let it cool then go for it. its much quicker this way.:devil:

[GOTFEAR]

Go to the track fire it up run the **** out of it. well in my case 1/2 a lap and seased it up so do some slow riding for about a 1/2 of a day i wnow thats hard two do man. all i wont two do is ripppppp the ****ttt out of it. YEHA

[ktmsxridr]

pssh i just kick it and goooooo. thats the way to ride. lol. j\k

[GOTFEAR]

Dont mind the radle just keep it throtled it will let you know when its time some times it goes squeeeeeiik

[beerock]

Originally posted by GOTFEAR
Go to the track fire it up run the **** out of it. well in my case 1/2 a lap and seased it up so do some slow riding for about a 1/2 of a day i wnow thats hard two do man. all i wont two do is ripppppp the ****ttt out of it. YEHA

hmmm I wonder why it seized.

Proper break in is essential to a long running motor.

whether you guys are being sarcastic or not. thats the wrong way to do it so spare the sarcastc comments this is a informational thread, not a BS thread

[GOTFEAR]

YEA it cost me $$$$$$$$$$$

[Eddiesanders250]

Originally posted by GOTFEAR
YEA it cost me $$$$$$$$$$$

LOL I imagine next time you will do it the right way.

[dirtmomma]

Good Info B :) thats pretty much how we broke our blaster & it lasted a long time w/ some hard flattrack racing!!!!!!!!1

[05400EXrydr]

run three tanks of gas thru it then it should be good

[wicked265R]

your dead on Beerock. Thats the same way i broke my R in and it ran like a champ but something happend where i got some sand or something in my motor and blew it up again lol.

Beerock knows what he's talking about and this is the best and most reliable way of breakin-in your motor. I don't recommend putting a new top end in and then tearing WOT through trails with it. Great Sticky!

[beerock]

thanks man.

ive had my fair share of breakin motors in I also blew up an R mtoor once because I didnt follow my own procedure and glazed part of the cyl wall had a partial seize. and the mtoor ran after it but it had a very strange powerband, hod bottom, no mid and lots of top end. was strange. took the motor apart and figured out becaue of improper break in the pistin was not heating up uniformly because of the glazed wall and caused the strange power band.

[Mxjunkie]

Originally posted by QuadRacer041
thats tioo much work for me.
start it up let it run for a minute.
let it cool then go for it. its much quicker this way.:devil:


:macho

[fmfracing5]

yes very dead on, i dont do it exactly like you but pretty close, i just rode my bike very easy just bliping throttle coasting around most of the time not even on the throttle just blipping it for one day, then the next day doing a little bit more blipping, and keeping going up intill the 5th day and let her rip. break in process is very important, if you dont want to wait another 2 weeks, and spend another 300$ then break it in and be smart, beerock very good information you help alot man thanks.

[skinny410]

You on the money with the break in process. I'm sure every person has there own little trick but overall i do the same and have a great success with all of my motors.. one tank of fuel with oil $20.00 you time free. Rebuilding your motor $$$$$

[peeping TOM]

yer 5 hot and cooling down sessions are best ...but the main reason for nipping a 250r up is because the exhaust side ain;t been {relieved} correctly, or not at all...

[rrguy]

Thats pretty close to all the methods I have seen. Even moto-man, the first one I saw who ignored the owners manual that tells you to ride 1/4 throttle how long? Has you warm it up & cycle it & go through the rpm range & load. Yet it will vary on material of rings & if you have a steel sleeve like most 250r, or a aftermarket which is plated. Some of these new 4 stroke motor have problems getting the rings to breakin. That is why others have came up with tricks of shortening the break in process even more. So I would not use one method for every motor type.

[Mcknight#5]

is it true your not to use full synthtics for yout first tank of fuel?

[RIZZO]

Originally posted by Mcknight#5
is it true your not to use full synthtics for yout first tank of fuel? I would like to know if this is true too this was reccomended to me to use also for the breakin......I just got my motor back this friday...bike all back together saturday took it out sunday first time on it for the breakin and know back to where I was on thursday no motor and $ 900.00 in the hole. not a good weekend.

[RIZZO]

I got my motor apart today.......and found out that my maine jet was too small making it run lean...wish I would have cought it sooner....I'll post some pics up of it soon.

[RIZZO]

Here are some pics of the damage...

[RIZZO]

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[RIZZO]

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[RIZZO]

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[RIZZO]

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[07250ex]

i got a question what is WOT?

[Mcknight#5]

wide open throttle

[rea]

I have a ? I have a brand new motor new set up not sure if my jetting is correct im sure this would effect brake in if im trying to jet correctly and brake in the motor what would any of you suggest

[redrooster310r]

run it rich for break in.... you want the mototr to polish those parts nice so when you jet in in later....the rings etc will be happily seated. read page 1 of this thread .....

[Tubsy]

Listen to Broque guys hes the man ;)

[kylacgarrett]

Thank you, that is very helpful.

[WesDS450X]

Lol i just went 8 hours 1/4 -1/2 throttle, then 2hours 1/4-3/4 thorttle then after that took her to the dunes and tore up some dunes xD

[Chepiriux]

Hi, Ill break in my motor next weekend and had a couple of questions. What does "blip the throttle" mean? like accelerate quickly and release the throttle imidiatly? How huch acceleration wot or just a flick? im I getting the idea? Also when they say for example, "ride it 1/4 to 1/2 then let it cool down" how much time do I ride it each session?
Thanks for the answers.

Ed

[1promodfan]

To "blip" the throttle means to just hit it real quick. Try this link, I think it'll answer all your questions.

http://www.ctracing.com/cylinder.htm

[Chepiriux]

Nice Info!! Thanks!

[jersey flip]

sup yall . i work at carpenter racing . we build world famous street bike engines.(285hp) we build our egines and dyno them without "break in" then the customer takes them right to the track .
as long as its done right with good parts your not going to hurt anything. warm it up good and ride the **** ing thing.

[Honda 250r 001]

i cant believe people would not break in a motor. I try to break mine in for way longer than that. I try to ride for 10-15 hours with no wide open at all. With the first hour being ideling with a fan on it. Break in is a must imo.

[Honda 250r 001]

Originally posted by jersey flip
sup yall . i work at carpenter racing . we build world famous street bike engines.(285hp) we build our egines and dyno them without "break in" then the customer takes them right to the track .
as long as its done right with good parts your not going to hurt anything. warm it up good and ride the **** ing thing.

explain to me how it wont hurt anything? there is obviously more friction going on in the motor because of the new piston and bore, which takes time to loosen up. plus that cross hatch which creats a trememdous ammount of heat compared to a motor thats been broke in. And then when you put fire in top of that and you ride the piss out of it. It equals not good things.

im not trying to tell you off, just trying to figure out your thinking here.

[jcs003]

i was told buy a guy when i was a kid and had a KX60 after he rebuilt it.(friend of my fathers) to idle it for about 30 minutes let it cool and repeat about 5 or 6 times and accasionally revving it. after that just take it easy for the first two tanks not going WOT alot then it should be broken in. i have did this after my rebuilds and everything seemed ok.

my question is. could this method affected the reliability of my top end? wondering if i could of gotten more hours out of my top end.

[Honda 250r 001]

Originally posted by jcs003
i was told buy a guy when i was a kid and had a KX60 after he rebuilt it.(friend of my fathers) to idle it for about 30 minutes let it cool and repeat about 5 or 6 times and accasionally revving it. after that just take it easy for the first two tanks not going WOT alot then it should be broken in. i have did this after my rebuilds and everything seemed ok.

my question is. could this method affected the reliability of my top end? wondering if i could of gotten more hours out of my top end.


defeaneatly!! properly breaking in a top end will can make your top end last much longer then the 2-stroke geniuses that go out and wfo until the piston to cylinder wall clearence is almost out of spec and hes not even done breaking it in. I guarentee your top end will last longer if you break it in then if you do not break it in.

[1promodfan]

Everybody does it different. I have a friend of mine that builds some nasty Banshee's, and he don't break it in. He just fires it up, sticks the pipes out the back of his shop and holds it wide open.

Dennis Packard says his break-in is done on the track. Although I couldn't do that.

I try to break mine in, in cycles like CT Racing recommends.

[wicked265R]

I've heard of people doing the WOT break-in but this is mostly for race motors that aren't going to see past maybe 2-3 races. The tolerance isn't much in these motors and its simple physics of metal expansion from friction and the introduction of combustion makes it even more. Reliability is thrown out the window with this break-in procedure.
If you plan on riding your 2-stroke for longer than a few races i highly recommend staying away from WOT and heavy load situations for quite some time. Run it a little richer than normal and just let the bike idle for a while. Shut it off until it is cool to the touch. Than repeat. Than you can start giving it a little throttle but let it return to idle for a few minutes. Give it a cool down period inbetween run cycles. Give it a little more throttle each time but never go past 1/2 throttle. You can take it for a quick 15 minute ride but of course let it cool. This is allowing the piston and cylinder to heat up and cool together which will give it a good tolerance. The cool down cycle is very important. remember, the metal components are becoming more dense when they cool. the internals will fit more properly and not sieze when warmed up again.
I'd take it easy for the first few hours of riding on it. increase the load on the engine each ride but only by a little bit on the throttle. It is also very important to shift BEFORE the powerband on break-in. Until it is broken-in do not let it hit the powerband. This should allow for many months of riding if done properly. Ive seen people get over a year on properly broken-in engines (while beating the crap out of them). So take your pick, WOT break-in which will last only so long, or the proper way (longer) but will insure longevity and less problems.

[Swiper77]

I personnaly use Duncans Procedure.

2-Stroke Engine Break-In

After engine has been completely installed in chassis. Be sure all fluids have been filled (coolant, trans oil. etc.). Before starting a freshly rebuilt or new engine it is strongly recommended that you make sure that the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned and fuel tank has been flushed clean. Fresh fuel/oil mixture has been used, air box has been cleaned and a new or freshly serviced air filter has been installed. Once the above steps have been completed, start your engine and follow the break-in procedure.

PART 1 ( 2-Idle periods, 2-Cool down periods )

IDLE: Start engine and let idle with a fan blowing on the radiator, to simulate riding conditions without a load on the engine. Engine must idle for exactly 15 minutes.
COOL DOWN: Shut engine off after 15 minutes and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes. Let fan continue to blow on engine.
IDLE: Repeat first step.
COOL DOWN: Repeat second step.

PART II ( 6-Riding periods, 6-Cool down periods )

RIDE: Ride machine for 15 minutes; make sure to vary your RPM range. Ride machine at 50% of your normal riding pace. Be careful not to put any unnecessary grain on the motor during break-in.
COOL DOWN: After 15 minutes of riding. Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.
RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride machine at 60% of your normal pace.
COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.
RIDE: Repeat initial riding period, but ride machine at 70% of your normal pace.
COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.
RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride machine at 80% of your normal pace.
COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.
RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride machine at 90% of your normal pace.
COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.
RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride machine at 100% of your normal pace.
COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Break in should now be complete. Confirm that carburetion settings are correct and give your machine a complete safety check before continuing your riding.

TIPS FOR A SMOOTHER BREAK-IN

- Do not use paddle tires. Stay away from deep sand dunes, mud etc until break-in is complete.

- Check coolant level after Cool Down periods. Make sure machine is cool before opening radiator cap. Break-in engine with same gasoline, premix A and same mix ratio that you plan to use permanently.

- Check carburetion jetting periodically during break-in.

- Check that all engine mount and chassis bolts are secure during Cool Down periods.

- Check ALL radiator hoses and carburetor clamps are secure

[Chepiriux]

Good info, im going to go with the first post break in process, but when you ride 1/4 to 1/2, 1/4 to 3/4 and 1/4 to WOT in which of the 3 cycles do you start to shift gears up and down?

Thanks for the answers,

Ed

[Swiper77]

Originally posted by Chepiriux
Good info, im going to go with the first post break in process, but when you ride 1/4 to 1/2, 1/4 to 3/4 and 1/4 to WOT in which of the 3 cycles do you start to shift gears up and down?

Thanks for the answers,

Ed

It doesnt matter what gear just try not to lug motor.

[Chepiriux]

This maybe a dumb question but, what do you mean by "try not to lug the motor."

Thanks,

Ed

[1promodfan]

Not let it lug means, don't leave it a low gear (or any gear really) and let it kinda jump, where you're not really in the throttle. It just kinda "rocks" as you're riding it.

[wicked265R]

yeah not 'lugging' the engine means u dont want to be in a gear where the engine is struggling to move the bike. you notice it when you give it more throttle and it doesnt go much faster just gets a little louder but rpms climb very slow then jump into the powerband. you want to avoid doing this.

[Chepiriux]

Thanks for the info guys!