Time to rebuild the old R.

[tbyrd15]

I have a 86 250R. It has FMF pipe and silencer, delta reeds, 38 or 39 carb, k&n, .40 over wiseco, so on. I think it is time to redo the old R, seeing how everone around me is get the new 450's. I am looking into racing motocross next season, so I am also look for mods that will help in that department also. My question is, where should I start? I would like to do a frame up rebuild, new bearings, seals, everything (after 20 years, I think it deserves it). I want something that will be reliable, and also kick some 450 butt, and most importantly something that will be fun to ride and race. I am open to all suggestions.

[TheFontMaster]

For the motor, I would go with a 265 PV cylinder, unless your in a class where you can run something bigger. LRD has a great 265 kit. For suspension, if this is going to be a strictly MX quad then get +3 a arms, if you are going to be doing trails too and it's going to be an all purpose quad get +2's. A +2+4 lsr axle for the rear, along with a locknut, and a -1 1/4 swingarm. Of course your going to want shocks too, get the best your budget can alow. Then there is just some other vanity and comfort things that you might want to look at, like new plastics, powdercoat, chroming or polishing. Comfort things would incude a longer sterring stem, lowered foot pegs, shaving some foam from the seat handlebars. Also a set of wheels and tires, 18 in. rears, and 20 in. fronts. And you are going to need a teather kill switch and nerf bars to be legal at the races. I think I got about everything.

[beerock]

rebuild kit

steering stem bearing
front hub bearings and seals
shock bushngs(or new shocks)
a-arm bushings(or new a-arms)
Front swingarm needle bearings and seals(or new swingarm)
rear axle bearings and seals
all linkage bushings and seals for rear shock linkage
new rear shock bushings(or new shock)

motor rebuild

A killer port job is all you need and bump up the compression on the motor. i would say run race gas and bump it up to about 210-220 psi

Well you cant buy a 86 from honda anymore so i woudl say go with a 88 style crank long rod.(you can get the 86 style short rod form hot rods, but its a hot rod not a OEM honda crank)-to risky for me)

main bearings and seals

fresh bore and hone bore to .50 over if the bore will clean up at .50 over, other wise go 2 over bores to get it right. MEASURE the cylinder bore BEFORE ordering the new piston .10 thou isnt alot and if you have a deep gouge you may need to skip that overbore.

new piston 86 STYLE with 4-5mm spacer plate(best set up for MX or trails) if you want it to be more reliable then go with a 88 style piston no spacer plate.



All new tranny bearings and seals.before you place your order for all the parts, dissassemble your mtoor first and inspet the forks and clutch etc eevrything, replace what is needed
DEFINATELY ORDER the 89 update kit for the clutch, it consist of a push rod, a lifter a needle bearing, a very special washer that goes against the needle bearing and the NEW 89 pressure plate.

a hinson clutch basket will help longevity of the clutch basket, the OEM tend to get gouged pretty easy with hard riding.

as for aftermarket parts

i run +3 LT in all conditions except the tightest trails. i get by fine though. I would choose between laeger, walsh or roll.

front and rear shocks, thats up to you, I run AXIS, I would suggest axis, pep or least favortie elka

A double roller bearing rear carrier is a definate thing to get along with a antifade lock nut.

a +2 stem like font master said will help alot with stamina they allow you to throw the bike around easier i had one but bent it. They do bend easier because of the height from the stem clamp so be aware. I now run a stock langth protrax stem and havent had any problems but im sure the +1 or +@ would be eaiser to handle the bike.

a axle, dominator are the best but are $$$$$$ lsr makes good axles, stay away form durablue, make sure you get a +4 do it right the first time, dont buy a +2

front hubs, aftermarket front hubs will last alot longer then OEM hubs not completely needed but if your thinkin about goin all out there ya go!.

Swingarm, well i run a -1 3/4" (3/4" shorter then 88-89 style)
this will give you more strength if you buy a aftermarket swinger PLEASE try to keep the front end and rear end from the same company, it shows more of a stead fast atv platform if most parts are made by the same company, just like with shock matching etc... some people dont have the cash to do that or cant wait for it and buy somehtng cheaper i dunno, i like keeping all my parts for stuf flike that matching.


I guess thats about it......

[elchankoblanko]

I was just about to say that beerock:D Sweeet explanation dude.

[beerock]

Originally posted by elchankoblanko
I was just about to say that beerock:D Sweeet explanation dude.

ya dude im so bored, i been in the hosue with a bad back for 1 week and 2 days so im goin nuts

[tbyrd15]

thanks for all the help.