I got a new polishing kit....

[QuadJunkies]

Now how the heck do I use it????? :confused: :huh :o :p


I bought this from Caswell, it came reccomended from a freind. I thought this might speed up blingin up some of my dull pieces


I have no idea how much of the black emory compound to apply to the rope wheel(wheel is made for aggressive scratching ,oxidizing ect) OR.......... Do I use the wheel FIRST,then apply this stuff... Like most things ya buy. ....NO DIRECTIONS :mad: :ermm:

I want to use this on my beadlocks mostly right now . Any helpful hints would be great :)

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/alpolkit.jpg

[concise]

take one of the buffing pads put it on a drill spin the drill and as you are spinnin the drill hold the black ruoge up against the buffing pad(it will get softer and will kinda stick to the pad).
then start polishin your aluminum(make sure you clean yhe metal first).
after you finish with the black move on to the red(using a different buffing pad never use the same one for different colors).
then move on to the white(useing the finer fluffy kinda pad)
clean the metal in between different colors and after you are done polish it by hand with a good aluminum polish(like mothers billet polish).
you are going to hate doing this and you will be filthy dirty when you finish but you will have shiny stuff!!

[QuadJunkies]

Originally posted by concise
take one of the buffing pads put it on a drill spin the drill and as you are spinnin the drill hold the black ruoge up against the buffing pad(it will get softer and will kinda stick to the pad).
then start polishin your aluminum(make sure you clean yhe metal first).
after you finish with the black move on to the red(using a different buffing pad never use the same one for different colors).
then move on to the white(useing the finer fluffy kinda pad)
clean the metal in between different colors and after you are done polish it by hand with a good aluminum polish(like mothers billet polish).
you are going to hate doing this and you will be filthy dirty when you finish but you will have shiny stuff!!

WEll thanks for that info!!! lol thanks for the heads up on the mess, I was going to try this in my house.. I know NOT to do this now! :p

How long do you think two wheels will take me??
sO EACH TIME I want to shine something up, Ill have to buy ANOTHER rope pad??WOW... I guess I wont be polishing too often then!
Also, how will I know I have enough black compound on the rope pad, its a rough texture so will it stick OK?? Sorry if I sound lie a dummy lol, I just want it to turn out nice and be a waste of money on my end ;)
BTW.. that Bike looks SAWEET! :blah:

[Honda TRX250ex]

Originally posted by concise
take one of the buffing pads put it on a drill spin the drill and as you are spinnin the drill hold the black ruoge up against the buffing pad(it will get softer and will kinda stick to the pad).
then start polishin your aluminum(make sure you clean yhe metal first).
after you finish with the black move on to the red(using a different buffing pad never use the same one for different colors).
then move on to the white(useing the finer fluffy kinda pad)
clean the metal in between different colors and after you are done polish it by hand with a good aluminum polish(like mothers billet polish).
you are going to hate doing this and you will be filthy dirty when you finish but you will have shiny stuff!!
sparkle sparkle

[concise]

no not buy a new pad every time just mark each one (like use the rope like one with the black ONLY)..
you wont need to buy a new pad for a long time and can clean it buy spinning the drill with the pad on it on the corner of a wrk bench(or i use a flat head screw driver while the pad is spinnin).
the rouge will stick to the pad (like i said it will get softer as the spinnin pad touches it).The whole process sucks and there is no shortcuts if you want to achieve a chrome like finish(unless you pay someone else to do it!).
wheels should shine up fairly easy,hope i helped have fun polishin.

[QuadJunkies]

Originally posted by concise
no not buy a new pad every time just mark each one (like use the rope like one with the black ONLY)..
you wont need to buy a new pad for a long time and can clean it buy spinning the drill with the pad on it on the corner of a wrk bench(or i use a flat head screw driver while the pad is spinnin).
the rouge will stick to the pad (like i said it will get softer as the spinnin pad touches it).The whole process sucks and there is no shortcuts if you want to achieve a chrome like finish(unless you pay someone else to do it!).
wheels should shine up fairly easy,hope i helped have fun polishin. You were a BIG help.... Thanks! ;)

Tina

just did my nerf bars and outer rings to my bead locks. damn nerf bars took me 1/2 hr to sand, another 1 hour to buff, each.

[QuadJunkies]

was that with a buffer or by hand??? Ewwwww I hope your gonna say by hand! :huh :scary:

I used a buffer, whats the problem things are shiny as heck.

[aviator4]

Here are a couple of helpfull hints. (a few have been repeated)

I've been using the Caswell polishing system for several tears now, and ended up with every type of rouge and wheel that they carry.

I also have their Nickle-Chrome and their tripple Chromer plating systems. (which ROCK by the way)

1. Mark your pads, don't use the same pad for more than one compound.

2. Do you have EXACTLY whats in the picture there? If so, you have the Emery and the Triploi compounds, these are good compounds for Aluminum. Use the Black compound first, then the brown. Clean the parts between each compound.

3. Take your time, this isn't a fast process. Especially using a drill. These pads are actually designed for a buffer, so be patient.

4. A Little Bit'l do ya. - Only use enough compound to "cover" the pad. Using a buffer, it only takes a fraction of a section of recompound a pad by touching the compound block to it, it may take a little longer using a drill. Initial loading of the pad may take a while, you will know you have enough when you have an even tint accross the edge of the pad.

5. Refill the pad often. If you notice that your pad has stopped polishing at an acceptable speed, re-apply the compund, let the compound to the polishing.

6. Do this outside.. you're going to get filthy. Everything will have a black dust all over it. (except the polished piece!!) when you're done!

[QuadJunkies]

Originally posted by mittimj
I used a buffer, whats the problem things are shiny as heck. lol... What I meant was the time you invested, I have bad hands so I was hoping you would say it took you that long cause it was all manual labor;)

[QuadJunkies]

Originally posted by aviator4
Here are a couple of helpfull hints. (a few have been repeated)

I've been using the Caswell polishing system for several tears now, and ended up with every type of rouge and wheel that they carry.

I also have their Nickle-Chrome and their tripple Chromer plating systems. (which ROCK by the way)

1. Mark your pads, don't use the same pad for more than one compound.

2. Do you have EXACTLY whats in the picture there? If so, you have the Emery and the Triploi compounds, these are good compounds for Aluminum. Use the Black compound first, then the brown. Clean the parts between each compound.

3. Take your time, this isn't a fast process. Especially using a drill. These pads are actually designed for a buffer, so be patient.

4. A Little Bit'l do ya. - Only use enough compound to "cover" the pad. Using a buffer, it only takes a fraction of a section of recompound a pad by touching the compound block to it, it may take a little longer using a drill. Initial loading of the pad may take a while, you will know you have enough when you have an even tint accross the edge of the pad.

5. Refill the pad often. If you notice that your pad has stopped polishing at an acceptable speed, re-apply the compund, let the compound to the polishing.

6. Do this outside.. you're going to get filthy. Everything will have a black dust all over it. (except the polished piece!!) when you're done!
Hey, thanks!! Yes, I have everything listed in that pic ;) I thought at first I was missing something cause the one and only papre ion the pkg. said t ouse the black emory and I saw nothing that loooked like emory.. Then I figured it out that it was referring to the compound


I needed to buy a new drill,so I figured I would be OK with a drill, I didnt want to spend the Xtr $$ right now and have t obuy both so hopefully the crill will be alright. I bought a plug in drill since this will take time

I have tried useing a drill before, about twice as slow as a buffing motor. unless you are useing the drill to get into tight places. I have also used a air powered die grinder, kinda like a dremel but powered by air. it rocks in its ways, doesent have lots for torque but has high rpm and is verry small to get into tight places.


thoes nerf bars where verry rough when I started, they wernt smooth or anything when I started. but the rings to the beadlocks took like 5 min each. only because they were being re-polished.

[TCracin440ex]

i did my heat shield all by hand...i sanded it all down by hand.....but then i got out the buffer to polish it... took me a while to get it done and i was black as ink when i got finished but i like the turn out

it looks damn good imo...it looks alot better in person then what it does in the pics

[TCracin440ex]

nother of it mounted on the bike