What do you use for Oil?

[Fast-n-Furious]

I was just wondering what all you guys are using for oil in the EXs.

[Ex'r Marlin]

I recently switched from Honda HP4 to Mobil 1 15W50.

Note: There are a few threads on here on this topic. If I was not of any help, the other threads should help you with any questions you may have.

Good luck.

[VegasEx'r]

I'm not brand loyal, I use synthetic 20-50w motorcycle oil. Usually I end up buying maxima.

[-=Skot=-]

Bell Ray

[Zingnut]

Mobil15w 50 always....

[yamaha1470]

Mobil 1 15w50!!!!!!!1

[twisted threads]

I also run Mobil 1 15w-50 and I have had no problems at all

I use:

QUAKER STATE 10W-40

for protection beyond 3000 miles.

I use it in my truck- F-150, atv-300ex and superbike-YZF-R6.

[Dave400ex]

I use Kendall GT1 straight 40 Weight. It seems to do the Job.

[cotttonwoody]

I use crisco vegitable oil.

[NJ300ex]

I have been using mobil 1 15w50 for awhile now. One thing i did notice is that when I got my 400ex it made a wierd noise at start up and now it doesn't after I switched to this oil. I think this is a good thing.

[ridefastrgetoff]

Synthetics definitely make our bikes run cooler; we've used several, Motul, Sylkalene, Maxxima, Royal Purple, Mobil all with much greater success than the petros. We have currently been testing Amsoil and we like it too. We are running 8 degrees cooler.

[beyer05]

Hey ridefast, what weight of Amsoil are you using????

[ridefastrgetoff]

10W-40 Motorcyle Oil; they've got another oil that's a 10w-40 but it's got friction mods in it and I'm sure you know that's not good in wet clutch apps. or at least not if you're feathering the clutch a lot.

[RED121572]

I use Amsoil.

Originally posted by laslavens
I use:

QUAKER STATE 10W-40

for protection beyond 3000 miles.

I use it in my truck- F-150, atv-300ex and superbike-YZF-R6.

Dude, I hope you know that Quaker State is one of the worst oils cause it builds up sludge really, really bad.

My 400EX <----- Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (summer) 10W-40 (winter)

[ridefastrgetoff]

Actually, I'm not trying to be critical but do have a question. For those of you who are still using the straight weight oils, are there still mfr.'s who recommend using those? This kinda relates to the Corvette technology in that the EX's have much tighter tolerances than many of the quads and motorcycles of the past just like the Corvette's; since 1992 they have been coming factory filled with 5w-30 Synthetic Oil's ONLY ( In fact, if you use anything other than this recommendation, not only can you void your warranty, you can do serious damage to these engines ). Another reason I'm posting this reply, Warrior Man, is the climate you live in: Indiana, that seems like a really heavy oil; do you race ? If you're interested in increasing performance, just try a quality synthetic, and yes I would recommend a multi-weight oil instead of the straight weights.

[Dave400ex]

Well the Oil doesn`t seem to be much Thicker then the Golden Spectro I ran before. It needs changed after a good 15 Hours of Riding. 400MXer told me that Bud Fischer told him to run this and that he was already running it before and it worked Great. That`s why I am running it. I don`t Race now, but will be starting next Spring. Is this Oil going to hurt anything? Can I run it year round? If I should get a different let me know I will call TC and ask what he runs. Thanks

[Kawboyz beware]

well for a 400ex I would recommend you not to use a synthetic oil because it is too slippery for the clutch. I would Switched from a sythetic back to a regular 20w-50 after smoking a clutch. The 20W-50 makes it a little difficult to start when cold but thats no big deal. And as for a clutch use the OEM only the aftermarket uses different springs that are too stiff and some kits have the extra plate. In past experiance is that is it not good for this application.

[ridefastrgetoff]

Kawboyz, I would agree with you that many Synthetics will cause clutch slippage and/or fade; however, if you use a "Quality" synthetic that is formulated without Friction Mods you should be just fine. Synthetics got a bad name in the beginning ( 10 yrs. ago or so ) because folks were being told these were better lubes but were not told they should never run friction modified oils in wet clutch applications; oils for wet-clutch apps are usually marked as such on the bottle or say they are formulated for Motorcycle applications, motor oils in general do not have such labeling nor do they need them. If you get the correct synthetic for your application, you will see a huge performance improvement and slippage will be an after-thought.

[Dave400ex]

Ridefastrgetoff, Can you read my last Post and answer my Questions? Thank You, I just want to make sure my Oil is ok.

[ridefastrgetoff]

""I don't Race now, but will be starting next Spring. Is this Oil going to hurt anything?"

Warrior, I'm curious to know what the average temps Indiana has in the Spring; we've got some pretty chilly nights here in Oklahoma and it's kinda like trying to jet for a cold night -vs- hot; it could make all the difference in the world. Of course if you're indoors, that problem might be solved. The thicker oils are going to give a bit more film strength under those racing conditions and that's the good side; the flip side, is that the heavier oil will cost you power, especially in the cold, it will cause your motor to work harder trying to flow an oil that is more viscous ( straight 40 weight oils are 40 weight ALL the time ( causing your motor to run hotter normal operating temps ), whereas a 10W-40 is a 10 weight base oil that is formulated to perform under Heat /Stress as a 40 weight ). With the multi-grades you should get the best of all worlds; great start-up protection, film-strength, heat dissipating ability ( 8 - 20 degrees cooler depending on what you are running now ) and with you running a Straight 40 weight Petroleum Oil, you should be much closer to the 20 degree mark. To say this is going to hurt anything is impossible but from personal experience, anytime you can keep your engine cooler and still get peak performance, that is what you're looking for - especially in racing.

[Dave400ex]

Ok Thanks. I think I will call TC and ask what Oil he runs.

[E400X]

I would agree with you that many Synthetics will cause clutch slippage and/or fade; however, if you use a "Quality" synthetic that is formulated without Friction Mods you should be just fine
Hey ridefast,
Can you explain to me why Friction Modifier in the Oil is bad for our wet clutch setups. Is seems that friction modifier which helps improve friction would help the clutch grab better. If I am wrong here can you explain the wet clutch setup and why I am wrong. Thanks alot

[ridefastrgetoff]

Not a problem! Unfortunately, many folks think that Friction Mods make the oils more abrasive when in fact it makes them more slick. Friction Mods are nothing more than additives that are put in the oil to help in reducing wear, like in cyclinders/rings, but these same additives cause or most likely will cause slippage or fade. Often times, your experiencing over-heating of the fiber plates and hardening of them before you actually experience the slippage; once the slippage begins, the damage has been done because the plates are generally already glazed over at that point and most likely brittle too. Anytime you are feathering the clutch and using a lubricant with friction modifiers, you stand the chance of clutch fade; this is even more the case with synthetics. Petroleums are abrasive enough by nature that even with Friction Mods they may not cause slippage. The bottom line is that we want the best of both worlds; the elimination of drag and cooling of the engine components yet abrasive enough to prevent exactly what you are talking about.

[Dave400ex]

What Oil would give us the Best of both Worlds? I want to run a Maxima, Klotz, or Kendall Oil.

[ridefastrgetoff]

Given those three choices, your best bet would be the Klotz, then Maxima Super M and then Kendall. Good Luck.

[E400X]

Thanks Ridefast. Thats why I got the Mobil 1 15w50 because it doesn't have friction mods added to it. I am just confused on why they call it friction modifier if it reduces friction. I have a truck with a LS differencial and when changing the gear oil, you are suppose to add a 4oz bottle of friction modifier to the new gear oil to help the clutch plates in the diff. grab better. I was told by a few mechanics that the friction modifier is added to help improve friction for the diff. Thats why i thought it would perform the same on our wet clutch setups. I don't understand how friction modifier in one application can improve friction and in another reduce it.

[Dave400ex]

Ok Klotz has 2 different Oils. Should I get the Motorcycle TechniPlate-Synthetic Lubricant or the MX4 TechniPlate?

[Matt400ex_17]

I dont think that the oil you use is really gonna matter ive used Yamalube 10W-40 , HP4 10W-40 , and now I use Castrol Syntec Blend 10W-40. It doesnt matter the brand or anyhting as long as there is oil in and it is the proper weight . I am now using Castrol still and i have a 2000 CBR 600F4I, 1999 400ex and 300ex, 1994 trx 300 4x4 and trx 90 and run it in em all!!!

[RideSportrax]

I run Mobil 15w-50 in my 400EX and my YZ250 tranny. It works like a dream. As for Klotz Super Tecniplate, that is a premix application for 2 strokes. I do not believe that your 400EX would like it very much.