Best Paint For Engine Cases ? [Archive]

lee37vernon

10-21-2005, 02:14 AM

actually yo will find automotive paint in a can , my trade for years was a car painter ..
now, i know 2 pack wont work ,it'll get soft almost straight away , so will single pack acrylic . i have used cellulose before which held up quite wll (aerosol automotive paint equivelent, although some are acrylic )
the problem i'm having is my powder coater seems to think the petrol , if a spill will maybe make it soft . i'm not so sure unless you have a permenent bad leak so was really seeing off you guys HOW WELL IT HAS HELD UP IF YOU USED IT ?
I know you can get 'proper' heaty proof paint in cans but in my experience it comes out like piss .... it has no substance to it at all ....

wilkin250r

10-21-2005, 10:31 AM

What type of metal are the cases? Can I bead-blast them and leave them bare, or will they corrode too fast?

metalmellinium

10-21-2005, 10:34 AM

Alright show me where you can get Automotive paint in a can, and automotive clear in a can and make it the same quilaty as shooting it out of a gun. My mom and dad have owned a autobody shop for 25 years.

zedicus00

10-21-2005, 10:38 AM

cases r cast alum. you can beed blast them and leeve them bare, i really like that look the best actually.

you can polish them out to a mirro shine and clear them, not a fan of this look. this requires a lot of upkeep to keep looking that good.

you can strip them to bare metal and use a grinder with a brush atachment to give them a brushed look, my second favorite finish.

strip and sand and paint, with anything from a rattle can to a full on automative grade gun and depending on yur skill you can make either look good, or bad.

you can even just strip them to bare aluminum and do nuthing to them, thas not a bad look either.

zedicus00

10-21-2005, 10:47 AM

Originally posted by metalmellinium
Alright show me where you can get Automotive paint in a can, and automotive clear in a can and make it the same quilaty as shooting it out of a gun. My mom and dad have owned a autobody shop for 25 years.

i can buy spray paint from walmart and make it look as good as an autobody store. the main difference is that spray paint is softer so the finish damages easier.

one of my cheeter tricks is to use rattle cans for the color, then clear coat it with a good PPG clear, saves a lot of time and money plus gives the UV and chip resistance of real automotive paint.

(i too use to do autobody repair.)

Pappy

10-21-2005, 11:19 AM

ive seen several cases done with radiator paint. it gives the cases a matt black semi texture finish. looked damn nice for $8 a can and lasted for more time then id have expected.

no matter what you use, prep them properly.

metalmellinium

10-21-2005, 11:20 AM

LMFAO thats funny right there. Well if you do it right, you should primer it, seal it, base coat it, then clear.

wilkin250r

10-21-2005, 11:49 AM

Me, personally, if you're going to go with any type of rattle-can, I say forget the clear. Sure, it chips a little easier, but it makes touch-up a 2-minute process.

If you clear-coat it, you have to sand through the clear, a large area to avoid overspray on top of the clear, hit it with color, and then hit it with clear again, along with all the masking and prepping involved with any touch-up.

Without clear, you don't care about overspray on top of the surrounding area, it's all the same color. A little sanding, a quick spray, and you're done.

zedicus00

10-21-2005, 12:00 PM

well yeah prepping is the most important part, but i painted and cleared plastics and they hav lived through several roostings caught a fender on a tree an they didnt chip and even where i cut part of the fender off when i had a trx-11 pipe they didnt chip on the edge.

i clear stuff to keep it from chipping.

lee37vernon

10-21-2005, 12:25 PM

PLASTIC IS A WHOLE OTHER MATTER , 2 PACK WITH A PLASTICISER AND YOU HAVE NO PROBS , WILL NEED WET SANDING WITH 600 GRIT OR 240 DRY ON PLASTIC THEN PRIMING , THEN FLATTING BEFORE TOP COAT FOR A PERFECT FINISH

metalmellinium ---
ASK YOUR PARENTS IF THEY USED CELLULOSE PAINT 25 YEARS AGO , THEY DID .... OLD TECHNOLOGY IS CURRENT IN 'ARESHOLE' CANS , AS WE CALLED EM IN TRADE . ACRYLIC TOO WHICH IS BETTER AND MORE DURABLE BUT NOT SO GOOD WITH HEAT .

IDEALLY PAINTING MY CASINGS THEY SHOULD BE SHOT BLASTED AND PAINTED WITH AN ACID ETCH FIRST , THEN THE TOP COLOUR, BUT IT STILL LEAVES ME WITH THE QUESTION OF WHAT TOP COAT , I NEVER PAINTED A HEAT RESISTENT CAR BEFORE!;)

I JUST WANNA KNOW WHAT PEOPLE HAVE DONE !! AND GOT AWAY WITH ..

IT WILL NEVER BE AS GOOD AS MR HONDA'S BUT I JUST WANT IT PRETTY GOOD , ANY CHIPS AND THE ALUMINIUM CASES WILL CORRODE AND BLOW THE PAINT FINISH , SO NOT SURE ON POWDER AS ITS ROCK SOLID AND TENDS TO CHIP IN BIGGISH PEICES , ALSO NOT SURE HOW STANDS UP TO HEAT , BUT HEY IF ANYONES DONE IT AND KNOWS BETTER .. I NEED TO HEAR ...

TheFontMaster

10-21-2005, 12:34 PM

What I did with my cases was sand them down, used an apoxy primer, then my base coat then the clear. I used PPG products. You don't have to worry as much with the heat on the case's, they are far enough away from the combustion chamber where it won't get hot enough to yellow the clear, or wear the paint. If it was your cylinder, thats a different story, that needs high temp paint, regular paint won't hold up. Also, the case's are pritty well protected from debris that can hit it, so heat is your biggest enemy. And yes, powdercoat is the best way to go, it will hold up to the heat.

lee37vernon

10-21-2005, 12:35 PM

THANKS FOR THAT FONTMASTER.:D

Pappy

10-21-2005, 12:59 PM

lee...

your cases can be powdercoated with no fear of heat damage. and being they are aluminum they should be treated with a phosphate coating prior to PC to prohibit oxidation. this is the process i use. center cases rarely reach temps higher then 120 degrees. they may spike higher but not high enough to cause powdercoating damage.

lee37vernon

10-21-2005, 05:30 PM

THANKS ALSO FOR THAT PAPPY.:D

HAVOK

10-21-2005, 07:48 PM

Originally posted by metalmellinium
Alright show me where you can get Automotive paint in a can, and automotive clear in a can and make it the same quilaty as shooting it out of a gun. My mom and dad have owned a autobody shop for 25 years.

HOK make SHIMRINS KANDYS and PREALS in a spray can. And yes you can get the same quilaty if not better with spray cans. Look at what some graffity artist can do in the dark with spray cans.

TheFontMaster

10-21-2005, 08:03 PM

Originally posted by HAVOK
HOK make SHIMRINS KANDYS and PREALS in a spray can. And yes you can get the same quilaty if not better with spray cans. Look at what some graffity artist can do in the dark with spray cans.

Ok first off, you will never be able to get better results with rattle can paint than you will with a good paint that is meant for cars that you spray on with a spray gun. You can get it to lookd good, and last decently, but never as good as say something from PPG or house of kolor. And graffity is totaly different that someone wanting to paint thier frame, or parts for thier car.

Pappy

10-21-2005, 09:29 PM

Originally posted by lee37vernon
THANKS ALSO FOR THAT PAPPY.:D

i just realized your in england!

whats the quad scene over there?

HAVOK

10-21-2005, 10:37 PM

Originally posted by TheFontMaster
Ok first off, you will never be able to get better results with rattle can paint than you will with a good paint that is meant for cars that you spray on with a spray gun. You can get it to lookd good, and last decently, but never as good as say something from PPG or house of kolor. And graffity is totaly different that someone wanting to paint thier frame, or parts for thier car.

First off you don't have to be a dick about this. I said graffity as an exanple of how a spray can can spray. And what do you think HOK stands for? You must have never preped your surface before using spray paints. Yes you can not use 50 cans of spray paint on a car are big project and expect it to be like it was out of a spray gun in a paint shop. For what this guy wants to do spray paint preped right will be just as good.

lee37vernon

10-22-2005, 03:07 AM

HEY TIME OUT .. EVERYONES RIGHT .. AEROSOLS CAN GIVE A GOOD FINISH, HOWEVER THE AMOUNT OF SOLIDS IN A SPRAY CAN CAN NEVER MATCH PAINT THRU A PROPER SPRAY GUN , BE IT CELLULOSE, 2 PACK OR WATERBOURNE . I AGREE ON MY CASES SPRAY WOULD BE OK , ITS A SMALL AREA AND I CAN PUT ON MANY LAYERS .. BUT .. I CAN GET POWDERCOAT DONE SO EASILY AND ITS SO FAR SUPERIOR I WANTED TO GO THAT WAY . JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE YOU GUYS THAT USED IT HAD NOT HAD PROBLEMS ..

PAPPY , NOT SURE ABOUT THE QUAD SCENE IN UK BUT ITS NO WAY LIKE YOU GUYS GOT . I'VE HAD A TRI Z FOR LAST 12 YEARS AND LOVED IT , HAD LITTLE THINGS BEFORE THAT LIKE PW50 TO RM 250 , LT50 TO ATC 110 THEN THE Z . FANTASTIC FUN AND NOT SO MUCH OF A HANDFUL AS PEOPLE RECKON , THEY CANT BE HOLDING ON TIGHT ENOUGH .. THE ATC 250R BOYS SEEM TO DO OK ! ANYHOWS OVER HERE THERES A LOT OF ARMY LAND WHICH IS GETTING HARDER AND HARDER TO RIDE ON WITHOUT GETTING YOUR BIKE CONFISCATED OR A MASSIVE FINE , AND MOST TRACKS WONT LET YOU ON WITH 3 WHEELS .. SO I BOUGHT THE BEST QUAD I COULD FOR MONEY I HAD . TROUBLE IS THE R WAS A BASKET CASE TRX 250R SO NOW SHES HAVING A FULL REBUILD , +2+1 , PEPS , 265CC , PIPE , CARB , ETC .

ALSO THIS ONES GOING ON ROAD TOO .. JUST TO ANNOY THE LOCAL COPS AND TO GIVE ME MORE ESCAPE ROUTES FROM WHERE I RIDE ! LOL :p

honda350r

10-22-2005, 08:02 AM

Originally posted by metalmellinium
Alright show me where you can get Automotive paint in a can, and automotive clear in a can and make it the same quilaty as shooting it out of a gun. My mom and dad have owned a autobody shop for 25 years.

I can have ANY paint you want put in to a aerosol can at my local paint and glass store for about 18.00 a can.

They will even put hardener in the paint so gas won't peel it off. The only down fall to the hardener is that you will have to use it the same day or the paint will harden in the can.

Been doing this for the last 10 years ! So it is nothing new...

lee37vernon

10-22-2005, 05:20 PM

correct however the thread was originally about engine case paint .. lol .. 2 k in a can or no wont work , goes soft . but your spot on ,some will mix 2k in a can for you ..

i'm going with powder now for sure , with a suitable stabilising primer :)

ground_zero298

10-29-2005, 07:10 AM

I thought most powders used on atv'swere uv and petroleum proof.

Tom TRX250R

10-29-2005, 08:35 PM

Or you could always do the best option and chrome the cases! Though that is expensive, it isn't the upkeep like polishing aluminum and it is VERY durable. I have both cases done on my R and they still look like new even over 2 years ago of chroming.

lee37vernon

10-30-2005, 05:51 AM

must depend on the grade of the aluminium as i had some stuff chromed a while back and it oxidised under the chrome and pushed it off :grr:

yzcrashbandit

10-31-2005, 01:51 PM

hey powdercoating will hold up a lot better than paint. .

bwamos

11-04-2005, 12:39 PM

Originally posted by lee37vernon
must depend on the grade of the aluminium as i had some stuff chromed a while back and it oxidised under the chrome and pushed it off :grr:

They didn't prep it right.

lee37vernon

11-04-2005, 05:30 PM

so how would you prep for chroming ??????????

this was a set of fabricated breather tanks , from sheet alli ..

beerock

11-04-2005, 05:54 PM

im lost? you dont have to clearcoat chrome? I have triple plate chrome on my sub and a-arms and all you do is wipe them down and they look new.

POLISHED ALUMINUM is a different story and in my opinion the best thing to do if you get cases polished, or anything polished for that matter is to have them powdercoated with a clear pcoat. I did this with all my polished parts and they are still shiny, if i di d not pcoat them with clear they would look really dull by now, its 2 years later and there still shiny...

as for cases, nothing is better then powdercoating them. the dirt slides right off, unlike bare aluminum.

lee37vernon

11-05-2005, 03:55 PM

i was talking about chroming on plain fresh ali .not clearcoating the chrome..

interesting that the clear powder coat sticks ok to polished finish and has held up for so long . i'd have thought it needed to be keyed up but i may well go for a polish and clearcoat now rather than black on a shot blast finish :D

Teufel

11-05-2005, 04:30 PM

I have a couple of my motors that I have bead blasted which results in the natural gray finish. The finish stays consistent wash after wash. I run XC so a gloss doesn't matter much to me.
I also have one motor that is polished with no clear coat, now that's a nightmare trying to maintain.

Originally posted by wilkin250r
What type of metal are the cases? Can I bead-blast them and leave them bare, or will they corrode too fast?