Anyone Put A Battery On There R ??

[lee37vernon]

MAKING QUAD ROAD LEGAL IN U.K AND REALLY MAKES LIFE EASIER IF I HAVE A BATTERY . I THOUGHT I COULD JUST PUT ONE IN LINE WITH THE WIRING BUT I LOOKED AT TRAIL TECH WEB SITE , FOR HID LIGHTS ON R U NEED BATTERY , BUT ONLY REALLY SAYS YOU NEED TO FLOAT GROUND AT STATOR AND BUY THEIR RECTIFIER ....!!!

ANYONE ELSE DONE THIS . IF SO HOW EASY WAS IT ??

[wilkin250r]

You just want something to run your lights? Believe it or not, that's not too difficult to do.

Right now yoru electrical system is AC (Alternating Current). If you want to convert your ENTIRE electrical system to DC (direct current), then you will need to float the stator.

Or, to make life easier, you can just isolate your lights from the rest of your electrical system. ;)

I'm an electrical engineer, tell me exactly what you want to do, and I can help you.

[Cr85rRida]

winkin i want to run lights on my R but i want to be able to turn them on/off with a switch. I have a tether cord right now and was wondering if i hooked them up to my stator would i be able to control them on and off?

[250-R-250]

I am not real sure and dont try this without wilkins approvel, but couldnt you just splice in a Switch, and fuse in the cord on the lights.

[Tom TRX250R]

Yeah you can splice into the wires and install a switch for the lights, I have seen it several times on 250Rs.

[beerock]

if you want the best set up for lights buy a ricky stator 200 watt stator and there 100 watt per light clamp set up. Honestly I would use a OEM honda switch with the high and low light setting and on and off.

[lee37vernon]

wilkin you have a pm

[wilkin250r]

I saw the PM, but let's handle this out in the open. The whole point of this forum is to share information, and there might be other people interested.

So, let me get this straight. You are using a tether kill switch. Does that mean you do NOT have the OEM kill/light switch?

First thing I would recommend is getting the OEM switch. It is possible to have both a tether kill and the OEM kill switch, but it's NOT possible to hook up lights and a battery without a light switch.

The nice thing about 250r lights is that they do not use the chassis for ground, they have dedicated power and ground wires. Thus, it is possible to run DC to the lights, while the rest of your system remains AC.

[wilkin250r]

In fact, forget the OEM switch. Start looking for a streetbike switch that will fit your bars. They will already have blinker controls.

I'll start putting together a circuit that should allow your AC system to charge a DC battery.

[lee37vernon]

i already have a new yamaha street bike switch , worked out all the wiring no probs , has blinkers , horn the lot , i have a seperate kill switch as this doesnt have one .
i can work out wiring it up and i'm using led parts where i can to save on current draw , looking in my climber manual i now see that its just a regulator and not a rectifier fitted on the r so i presume i need one of them but thats wher i get lost ...:ermm:

[wilkin250r]

A rectifier is NOT what you want. A rectifier changes everything from AC to DC. Right now, your stator is tied to chassis ground, and if you want to convert to DC, you need to float the ground on your stator.

You're best off getting a rectifier just for your battery, and running ALL lights to your battery. At that point, you cannot tie the light to chassis ground, and your lighting will be it's own separate circuit. The only connection between your stator and your lights will be a charging circuit for your battery.

I will design the charging circuit for you, it's rather simple.

[lee37vernon]

sounds good , lot less hassle , what sort of amp hour battery do you think i may need , some real small 1.2 ah ones like half cigarrette packet , the 4.2 ah think it was was prob biggest i could find a hole for ...

[ground_zero298]

Hey wilkin could you explain a floating ground, how it differs, and how to do it? Thanks

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by ground_zero298
Hey wilkin could you explain a floating ground, how it differs, and how to do it? Thanks

First off, do you know the difference between AC and DC? AC stands for Alternating Current. It doesn't have a "positive" and "negative". Just like it sounds, it alternates. At one point, one side is positive and the other is negative, then they switch. Then they switch back. Back and forth, over and over, they keep switching polarity.

DC stands for Direct Current. It is constant. Look at your battery in your car, you have a "+" and a "-". This is positive and negative, they don't switch back and forth like AC. In a DC system, the entire frame and chassis is generally tied to negative.

Right now, on your 250r, the system is AC. That means at some points your frame is negative, and other times it is positive. Now, you can use some of that AC and convert it to DC to charge a battery, but if you do that, you CANNOT connect the negative of that battery to your frame and chassis like a normal DC electrical system.

If you want to change your ENTIRE electrical system to DC, you cannot have the electrical connections on the stator connected to your engine, frame, or chassis. (right now, they are). You need to pull the stator ground off, and connect it to a rectifier. It will not be connected to chassis ground anymore, it will be "floating". Then, you connect the negative on your battery to chassis ground. This is how the electrical system on a 400EX works.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by ground_zero298
Hey wilkin could you explain a floating ground, how it differs, and how to do it? Thanks

Now, if you're not asleep from that last post, let me get down to the real important matters.

If you don't have a really firm knowledge of electronics and power generation, this isn't something you can do yourself. It's not as simple as "pull the black wire off and connect it to..." You would either need to re-wire your stator, or get really fancy with it.

I'm an electrical engineer, and even I am not about to attempt it myself.

If you're thinking about converting your entire system to DC, then you need to buy a stator and system already set up for it, rather than trying to do it yourself. I believe Trail Tech sells a system complete with a stator already wired for floating ground.

[ground_zero298]

Actually that cleared things up pretty good. Thank you

[lee37vernon]

sure did , traitech show you how to float your ground using a ktm as an example but i didnt notice the stator 4 sale , i'll have another look but what your suggesting sounds fine for me , as long as i can run lights or blinkers for a period with engine off thats cool ....

[lee37vernon]

wilkin , do you have a shopping list of parts for me while i'm waiting for this wiring diagram ?

[wilkin250r]

You might need more than a 1.2ah battery.

I'm working on a solution, but here is the problem I see. If your battery goes dead, you can't have it hooked directly to regulator when you fire your quad. Full voltage will try to charge your battery too quickly, and probably fry it.

A larger battery can handle a larger charging current.

Now, you COULD limit the charging current, but that poses it's own problem. If you limit current, it's universal. That means you can't pull full power, even when you turn on the lights. So now your lights are running off your battery full time, and 1.2ah just isn't enough to run off. It's enough for backup, but not to run off of full time.

You either need a larger battery, or we have to get rather fancy with it. It's possible to get fancy, but the design becomes more complicated.

[lee37vernon]

simple is best .. i reckon i can find a hole for the 4 something a.h battery but probably not much bigger . i was speaking to a friend of mine today who works on an electronic assembly line , he says he'd do the soldering on stator if i wanted to float the ground .... is it worth a go , if trailtech are doing it i dont see why we shouldn't have a go too .. not got a clue how to do it mind but...:rolleyes:

is it gonna make life easier that way or still best with bigger battery and just dc lights ...?

[wilkin250r]

I've never unwound the stator, I don't know how difficult it is to float the ground. It's probably more complicated than just a little solder work. It may need to be completely rewound.

[wilkin250r]

What is your background in electronics?

As I play with this design more, I'm thinking that it may not be possible with anything under a 12aH battery, something nearly the size of the battery on a 400EX.

If I try to do it with a smaller battery, I need to start getting really complicated, with rectifiers, relays, and the works. Quite frankly, it gets so complicated that you need an electronics degree just to understand and build it, and if you had that degree, you would be figuring this stuff out by yourself.

You might be just better off spending extra money and getting a complete kit from somewhere.

[fyi]

Could a complete 400EX wiring harness be adapted or swapped to the 250R ATC/ATV platform in place of the O.E. 250R harness for better functionality and proven durability? :)

Thanks. ;)

[wilkin250r]

It's not just the wire harness. I could easily duplicate the 400EX wire harness, and it would be just as reliable as any stock unit. Wires are wires, and I could use any rectifier.

The problem is the battery.

lee37vernon, if you are willing, we can try to put something together with a 1.2ah battery. It would work, it would be simple, but you may end up replacing the battery fairly often.

[lee37vernon]

the 1.2 ah is only the smallest size i could find ... the ones i've seen at 4.8 ah i think looked about as big as i could squeeze on bike somewhere without lots of hassle , what about linking up a couple of smaller ones or would that not work ?

[wilkin250r]

Hooking different batteries up together in parallel is generally a bad idea.

Again, what is your background in electronics? Do you know Ohm's Law? Have you verified that your light switch is not connected to chassis ground?

When I say "floating" or "isolated", do you know what I'm talking about?

[lee37vernon]

i can wire up a plug !! i can get my head round it if explained or with diagrams but no background at all in electronics ..but i'm always willing to try anything , also if i get stuck i can find someone to steer me in right direction i think ..

[lee37vernon]

my light switch will be connected to chassis ground at present as the earth traces through the loom and links into the earth for the kill switch which i beleive in turn goes to the chassis earth by cdi unit .

floating , i take it means that the chassis is not an earth but a seperate wire through the whole system , or is that isolated ??????????? :rolleyes:

thats why i'm asking you guys ..:ermm:

[wilkin250r]

This may not work if you don't know what I'm talking about, but we'll try it.

Let's start with the basics.

My plan is to have ALL your lights hooked to your battery. Headlights, taillights, everything, even your headlight switch. None of it can be hooked to your frame for electrical ground, it must be completely isolated.

This is the first thing you have to verify. You may need to take apart your light switch. You may need a meter to check your lights, or even take your lights apart. They CANNOT be hooked to chassis ground.

If this become too complicated for you, you may need to spend the extra money for a full DC conversion electrical system.

[lee37vernon]

i've already ripped down the yamaha switchgear but not wired anything in until this thread is done , i have no problem isolating all the lighting earths to the battery alone , i presume thats where the earth would end up anyhow ..

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by lee37vernon
[B]my light switch will be connected to chassis ground at present as the earth traces through the loom and links into the earth for the kill switch which i beleive in turn goes to the chassis earth by cdi unit .

floating , i take it means that the chassis is not an earth but a seperate wire through the whole system , or is that isolated ??????????? :rolleyes: [B]

Wait a second. I thought you said you had a seperate headlight switch that did NOT have a kill switch on it. :confused:

First off, imagine trying to connect ALL your lights to your battery, nothing to chassis ground.

Once you have that figured out, we will do a little testing, and pull a line from your regulator, rectify it, and send it to your battery. This will keep your battery charged, but it will still isolate your lights from the rest of your electrical system. It's like a one-way valve, it will allow your stator to charge your battery and lights, but it won't allow your battery to interfere with your stator.

[wilkin250r]

Do you have a multi-meter?

[lee37vernon]

yes i have a multi meter and yes i have a seperate kill switch ..however nothing is wired in at minute , i'm stating how the bike is NOW .. as it came from honda ..before i start chopping into the loom. I can easily isolate that eath leaving the kill switch to go to chassis ground. what your suggesting i have no hassle in understanding . ONLY PROBLEM WE MAY HAVE IS TESTING IT AT PRESENT CAUSE I'M HALFWAY THRU BUILDING HER UP AND SHE'S A ROLLER . ENGINE IN BITS AT PRESENT !!

[lee37vernon]

I ALSO UNDERSTAND ABOUT DIODES .. IF THAT HELPS .

[wilkin250r]

Well, that complicates things, but only slightly.

Ok, so you are confident that you can isolate the earth (ground) on ALL your lights.

After that, there is a wire coming from your stator connected to your regulator. It should be white and yellow. It is also connected to your headlight switch. THIS is your main lighting power wire. (when you turn on your lights, your stock switch connects this wire to your headlight and taillight).

We are going to pull this wire off, and rectify it and send it to your battery.

Do you have a repair manual with a wiring diagram? Are you using the stock wire harness?

[lee37vernon]

ALREADY FOUND AND IDENTIFIED THE WHITE , IT HAS A SMALL YELLOW STICKER ON IT ALSO . THIS WAS THE WIRE I'M GOING TO RUN ALL MY BLINKERS , HORN ETC FROM .

I HAVE A CLIMER MANUAL I'VE READ AND THE DIAGRAMS IN IT ARE FINE FOR ME , THE LOOM IS 89 STOCK .

[wilkin250r]

Ok, so here is how it will work.

When you get ready to do this, you are going to connect ALL your lights to your battery, even your headlight switch.

Generally, your headlight switch has one power wire going to it, and it connects power to various lights for headlight, taillight, blinker, ect. This incoming power will be the positive terminal of your battery, and all your negative (earth, ground) wires will run directly back to the battery.

None of it can use chassis ground.

After that, you will get 4 diodes, or a full-bridge rectifier, and you will rectify the white/yellow wire from the stator and connect it also to your battery.

You said you understood diodes, they are kinda like one-way valves. This will allow power from the stator to go to the battery, but it will not allow the battery power to bo backwards to the stator. This provides the isolation you need.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your headlight switch? Does the switch itself make the blinkers flash, or is that a separate circuit?

How do you get two levels of brightness on your taillights? Do you have a switch hooked to your brakes?

[lee37vernon]

THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH FOR BLINKERS -- POWER FEED STRAIGHT TO FLASHER RELAY , COMES STRAIGHT OUT OF RELAY INTO SWITCH WHERE ITS SPLIT LEFT OR RIGHT TO FRONT/REAR BLINKERS WHICH ARE EARTHED ( TO BATTERY NOW ..) AND COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT .

BRAKE LIGHTS--- , I'M USING LED TAIL LIGHT WITH COMBINED REAR LIGHT , BRAKE LIGHT AND NUMBER PLATE LIGHT , THE LIGHT OBVIOUSLY IS JUST WIRED THRU THE SWITCH (HAS SEPERATE FEED TO IT THAN HEADLIGHTS BUT COMES OFF SAME SOLDER JOINT IN SWITCH) . THE BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT IS BEING POWERED STRAIGHT OFF THE WHITE/YELLOW , INTO (1 FRONT AND 1 REAR ) BANJO BOLT PRESSURE SWITCHES THEN ON TO LIGHT WHICH AGAIN IS EARTHED AND COMPLETES CIRCUIT.

WILKIN , IS THE WIRE TO BE RECTIFIED NOT DONE AFTER THE REGULATOR RATHER THAN BEFORE ? OTHERWISE BULBS WILL BE LIKELY TO FAIL !?
TRAILTECH DO , ALONG WITH MANY OTHERS I HAVE NOW SEEN, AN ALL IN REGULATOR /RECTIFIER FOR LIKE $20 .. DOES THIS MAKE LIFE EASIER OR NOT ?

[wilkin250r]

Rectifier will be AFTER the regulator.

You don't want a regulator/rectifier, most of them use AC input and DC output with negative ground to chassis.

You don't want negative ground to chassis.

Besides, Radio Shack sells a 25-amp full-bridge rectifier for like $4.00

[lee37vernon]

OK I SEE NOW , OTHERWISE WE END UP BACK AT FLOATING THE STATOR ...

[wilkin250r]

What is your white/yellow coming from? In the stock wire harness, it comes directly off the regulator and provides power.

YOU want your power to come off your positive battery terminal.

[wilkin250r]

By the way, when you are done, your key switch will NOT turn off your headlights.

[lee37vernon]

ITS STOCK AT PRESENT SO SHORT OF GOING OUT GARAGE AND LOOKING IT MUST BE COMING OUT OF REGULATOR I'D PRESUME . I KNOW THE KILL WILL BE A SEPERATE CIRCUIT TO LIGHTS IN END , THATS FINE . I'M ALSO GONNA HAVE ANOTHER LOOK AT BATTERIES JUST TO SEE HOW BIG I CAN GET ON HER ..

[grude73]

Wilkin,

Excuse me for coming in late...

Are you suggesting using a bridge rectifier fed from the stator, output to the DC positive?

What is the voltage of the stator on the 'r' ?

If i was to do it myself Id be looking into a bridge rectifier, voltage regulator and a completely isolated DC wiring loom.

Also, wouldnt the AC output be dependant on the engine speed?

Anyways, you seem to have some good ideas, I'll be real interested to see how it works out.

[lee37vernon]

i've just been looking at the loom and the wiring diagram , the regulator only has the feed in and an earth , so am i correct in assuming it 'absorbs' or redirects the extra voltage above 14v ?

i thought a wire went in and then came out regulated .. however the white/yellow splits to 2 , 1 to lights and 1 to regulator ...

so i presume i need to run the earth from the regulator (which links in with the original chassis/lights earth) to the battery earth , correct ?

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by grude73
Wilkin,

Excuse me for coming in late...

Are you suggesting using a bridge rectifier fed from the stator, output to the DC positive?

What is the voltage of the stator on the 'r' ?

If i was to do it myself Id be looking into a bridge rectifier, voltage regulator and a completely isolated DC wiring loom.

Also, wouldnt the AC output be dependant on the engine speed?

Anyways, you seem to have some good ideas, I'll be real interested to see how it works out.

Close.

I'm suggesting using a line from the existing regulator, not directly from the stator. The regulator holds voltage at 15V, so after the diode drops caused by the rectifier, we end up with 13.6V, which should be perfect for charging a 12V lead-acid battery.

Yes, the DC wiring will be isolated, but only for the lights and battery. The chassis will remain AC ground.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by lee37vernon
i've just been looking at the loom and the wiring diagram , the regulator only has the feed in and an earth , so am i correct in assuming it 'absorbs' or redirects the extra voltage above 14v ?

i thought a wire went in and then came out regulated .. however the white/yellow splits to 2 , 1 to lights and 1 to regulator ...

so i presume i need to run the earth from the regulator (which links in with the original chassis/lights earth) to the battery earth , correct ?

First off, do NOT run earth from the regulator to the battery.

I'm working on getting a wiring diagram for you.

Yes, you are correct about the regulator. It redirects anything above 15V directly to ground. It is reffered to as a "shunt" regulator.

Imagine a bucket with a hole in the side. You can fill the bucket below the hole, but as soon as you try to go above the hole, the excess gets drained off. You can never fill past the hole. The regulator works basically the same way. As soon as voltage goes over 15V, the regulator shunts the excess to ground.

[lee37vernon]

i'm a bit confused how you can use a line from the regulator and not the stator though when the regulator only has an input and no outputs , doesnt that make the wire we'd use directly from the stator / sorry if i'm asking stupid questions but i like to understand what i'm doing when i do it ..:rolleyes:

[wilkin250r]

Yes, it's both. What I mean to say is that the line is not DIRECTLY from the stator. We need to keep the regulator in there, otherwise we would end up having well over 50 volts.

In the electronics world, that would be considered "from the regulator", or to be more precise, it would be "off of the regulator".

You are right, I want the line coming from the stator, but I want to keep the regulator in place, we can't get rid of it.

[lee37vernon]

understood ...

[lee37vernon]

any ideas on when you may have that wiring diagram wilkin ..? i have soldering iron and snips at the ready ;)

[wilkin250r]

Let me take a look tonight at my own wiring, and I'll get back to you tomorrow.

[Mxjunkie]

I thought you couldnt make a bike street legal that is a 2 stroke? :confused:

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by Mxjunkie69
I thought you couldnt make a bike street legal that is a 2 stroke? :confused:

Emission standards generally aren't retro-active. NEW vehicles must meet certain EPA regulations, but old vehicles do not.

The RZ350 motorcycle is a 2-stroke (banshee engine), and there are still a few of them on the road today.

[lee37vernon]

and i'm in U.K !! that helps , also we have s.v.a. but this bikes 89 so i dont need to pass a lot .. :D

[lee37vernon]

been looking at rectifiers over weekend , i can get locally like you say a full bridge 25 amp 30v for next to nothing . however , without floating the ground where do you propose to get the 2nd ac input from for the rectifier ? i see they have 4 terminals , two for either of the ac inputs , one out+ and one out - . i presume the ground that is made inside the stator is actually the 2nd ac which the alternater is losing via earth to create pulsating dc ?

[lee37vernon]

wilkin ,
just e mailed ricky stator , they will make me up a stator with a floating ground if i want , does this make the job A LOT EASIER ?

[wilkin250r]

A stator with a floating ground doesn't help much. If you went that route, you would need to buy a new regulator.

Ok, I scanned the wiring diagram from my manual, here is how it looks stock.

[wilkin250r]

Now, if you removed all lights, the headlight/kill switch, (I assume you are running with no ignition key), and an aftermarket kill switch, this is what the wiring diagram looks like.

All I did was remove the lights and headlight switch. An aftermarket kill switch is going to look exactly like the ignition key, so I left that in there.

Notice the white/yellow wire is just hanging out, not connected to anything.

[wilkin250r]

Everything perfectly clear so far?

This part is fairly simple, so I HOPE it's clear so far.

[wilkin250r]

Tell me how your switch works. How many power inputs does it have? Do you have one for all lights? Or do you have one input for headlight/tail, and another for blinkers (from a flasher relay)

With this, I'll wire up the lighting wire diagram, and then show you how to connect it to the rest of your system with the rectifier.

[lee37vernon]

I HAVE THE FOLLOWING --

BLUE / BLACK TRACER - POWER TO LIGHT SWITCH

BLUE/WHITE TRACER - FEED TO REAR LIGHTS

BLUE - (LIVE WHEN LIGHTS OFF) PRESUME SIDE LIGHT FEED

PINK - EARTH TO HORN ( EARTHS ON BARS , NEED TO MAKE A STRAP )

GREEN - LOW BEAM FEED

YELLOW - HIGH BEAM FEED

BROWN/WHITE TRACER - FEED FROM INDICATOR RELAY

DARK GREEN - RIGHT FLASHER

BROWN - LEFT FLASHER



SO YES THERE IS SEPERATE FEED FOR LIGHTS AND INDICATORS , OBVIOUSLY THE HORN AND BRAKE LIGHT WILL NEED TO BE FED PERMENENT + WITH THE EARTH GOING THROUGH THE RELEVENT SWITCHES ..

[wilkin250r]

Ok, how many switches do you have on your headlight switch?

Is the On/Off and High/Low all one switch total (like Off/Low/High), or is it actually two separate switches?

You should have On/Off switch, High/Low beam switch (these may be the same switch, or two individual switches).

A blinker, probably Left/Off/Right?

And the horn button. Do you need to have a horn to be legal?

[lee37vernon]

NEED TO CORRECT TWO WIRES ALTHOUGH IT ONLY MAKES A DIFFERENCE TO ME -

SWAP ROUND THE BLUE WITH THE BLUE/BLACK TRACER

SEPERATE LIGHTS AND THEN HI /LO SWITCH NEXT TO IT , THE ACTUAL LIGHT SWITCH TAKES FEED IN THEN IF IN OFF POSITION SENDS IT DOWN THE BLUE/BLACK PRESUME TO SIDE LIGHT . IF ON THEN SENDS IT TO HI/LO SWITCH WHICH THEN OBVIOUSLY SENDS IT TO HI/LO FILAMENT .

BLINKER IS LEFT /OFF/ RIGHT

HORN IS REQUIRED

[wilkin250r]

Ok, so let me see if I have this correct.

Blue is power coming IN.

When lights are ON, the switch connects BLUE with either GREEN or YELLOW, depending on high or low beam. It also connets BLUE with BLUE/WHITE, for tail lights.


Now, when lights are off, the BLUE/WHITE is also off, correct?


You say the BLUE/BLACK is live when lights are off. What happens when lights are on, is it dead or live?

Can you remove handlebar ground on the horn, and route it to a separate wire instead? So that you have Pink coming in, and some other color going out, and the horn button makes connection between those two wires when it is pressed?

[wilkin250r]

Tell me about your blinker relay. How many connections does it have, two or three?

[lee37vernon]

ok -

blue is power in to switch .

lights off - blue/ white off also

lights off - blue/black live

lights on blue/black dead ,
i'm only assuming this wire was maybe for side light although it would need to run rear light too .... i do however require a side light so this wire will be handy to use .

yes i can solder a wire onto horn earth no problem .

not got a flasher relay yet , i need an led one or some resistors , i pretty sure will be 2 pin . if turns out i need 4 way hazard flashers it will be 3 pin but assume 2 . i can figure it out later if needs 3 pin .

[wilkin250r]

A flasher for regular lights should also work for LED lights, I would figure. It's just switching power, the current regulator should be on the lights, not the relay.

[wilkin250r]

Ok, I'll put together a wiring diagram for lights.

Now, what is this "side light"? I'm not familiar with that.

[lee37vernon]

a normal flasher works out when a bulb is blown and flashes fast to show you , cause led are low current they flash fast all time . thinks bulb is blown , led need a 20w/10 ohm i beleive resistor or a proper led flasher .

the side light is just like a 5w running light in with the headlight assembly , normally runs the rear too . like a parking light . in us i beleive you have some sort of light on all time / i know volvo do ..

[lee37vernon]

apparently i will need hazard (4 way ) flashers too .. think i'll add a dpdt switch with extra flaser relay .

[lee37vernon]

BUMP

[lee37vernon]

WILKIN , I HAVE STATOR OFF AND WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT IT WOULD BE SO EASY JUST TO FLOAT THE GROUND ,( AND WIND A BIT MORE MAGNET WIRE ON THE COILS WHILE I'M THERE )AND GET A TRAILTECH REG/RECT FOR LIKE $29 I THINK I'M GONNA DO THAT
NOW ONLY THING NOT SURE ON WOULD BE IF THE KILL SWITCH / IGNITION WIRE TO EARTH WOULD GO TO BATTERY EARTH OR REAL EARTH ON FRAME .. I HAVE A TRAIL TECH HOW TO SHEET ON STAT , EASY , ONE WIRE AND I CAN FIGURE REG/REC WIRING , JUST THE KILL NOT SURE ON .

[wilkin250r]

If you float the ground on the stator, then you would tie the battery earth to the frame. At that point, it wouldn't matter which earth you go to, because battery earth and frame earth would be the same thing.